Post driver

Lea · Jun 19, 2014

I am thinking about building a portable (move by hand and back power) post driver for driving 6x6 timbers into the bottom of the lake for piling to build a dock on. Has anyone ever seen one or built anything like that?
Looking for ideas
Lea
Ck

BHD · Jun 19, 2014

I would think driving in to a lake bottom would be much easer than on solid dry ground, but I do not know how one could make a hand or person carry unit,

I built a tractor mounted some like a pile driver, the weight alone is 300 to 400 pounds,

about the only other way I would now is a air or hydraulic unit that worked some what like a jack hammer, but my bosh electric hammer is a good tool, and will bust up 6" concrete, with reasonable speed, but even if I had a end on it that could saddle/cap a 6x6" post, I really do not see it being that effective on driving a large post, even in a soft situation,

keep us in formed on what you come up with,

if one built a pontoon type boat/barge and mount your driver in the center, with some type of mast to mount the driver on even the jack hammer type unit, would be 70 to 80 pounds at a min, and I would think one would want some way to lift it up and lower it as the post drives,

a few years ago, I bought the small, 98E Basic T- Post Driver, T Post Driver, Post Driver, Fence Post Driver - Rohrer Manufacturing and they make larger, for larger pipe posts, they use very small amount of air,

I do not know if you made a pipe with a box to cap the wood post, if there large unit would drive a 6x6 wood post in a lake bottom,
99E-W Post Driver 3 -1/2" Max Diameter Recommended For Highway Guide Post, Drill Stem - Rohrer Manufacturing it is still 50 pounds, (48lb) and if one needs an adaptor it would set on top, of the post it would be tall, and I would think you would have to work off of some kind of floating deck
one could call them and talk to them,
there are some other drivers out there that hydraulic and air, one could look into them as well, but for some thing that is man hand able and yet capable of driving a post is going to be hard to find,

My two cents.

Whatswrong · Jun 20, 2014

Can just visualize standing in a boat on a ladder using a pipe with a cap and 2 handles. I know I'm being a prick but it seems hilarious.

On a serious note I believe I know a guy who invented one with a small engine and a counter weight on the crankshaft ,the vibration drove a post into sod. I sent an e-mail to confirm if that is real or a dream.

Whatswrong · Jun 20, 2014

I got one reply back and that person said it sounded right he wasn't sure if it was the person whom I thought invented it or not and I don't have a reply from that fellow yet

Jack3489 · Jun 21, 2014

Why don't you jet them in? Get a gasoline driven water pump and attach a hose, a 90 degree fitting, and length of one inch PVC pipe to the end. Set you post on the bottom of the lake where you want it and use the water pressure to essentially jet it in. Takes only a couple of minutes to work around a post. Once you get it to the depth you want it simply level it up and hold it in place for a couple of minutes until the silt fills in around the post. Let it sit for a couple of days and it will be rock solid. We use a small flat bottom boat and sit the pump on the floor with the intake hose hanging over the side. Simply walk the pole to where you want it and jet it in.

Works great.

Regards,
Jack

Lea · Jul 20, 2014

I have rethought my post driver and now think I would like to build one with a tower and a free wheel winch.
I think a air tugger would be just what I need, does anyone have any idea where I could find a used one

BHD · Jul 21, 2014

Just a suggestion, if you look in the post I did before, 98E Basic T- Post Driver, T Post Driver, Post Driver, Fence Post Driver - Rohrer Manufacturing look at this link,

what is interesting about this driver, is (if you look at the bottom "YELLOW" part, this attached to the post to be driven by a "T" handle screw, there is a weight, and a small air cylinder on the side and a switch/valve,

you attach to the post, and it is self contained, The AIR cylinder pushes up the weight, and at the top it is reversed and helps slam the weight down on the yellow sub frame,

what I am thinking is make a sub frame that can be bolted to the post to be driven, on it a air cylinder with a weight and over frame that guides the weight, (a hand valve could be used to raise and lower the weight via air cylinder, (the manual cylinder would not be as fast as a automatic valve), but it is self contained and attached to the post, do to the size of it a set of twin cylinders one on each side may be needed to make it smooth and not bind,

since it is all self contained on the post, one would not be shaking your floating dock, or boat your working out of,

and would not need a large compressor to use it,

my to cents,

jimgerken · Jul 22, 2014

Wouldn't it be a fantastic improvement if, somehow, the driver did not have to go over top of the post? For instance if the driver could clip on from the side, engaging with the post firmly to dive it. Then the heavy driver wouldnt have to be lifted up so high.

boggen · Jul 22, 2014

i have gone with 30 gallon and 55 gallon plastic drum route for docks and raft for one lake here.

it is the water level that gets me every time. part of the year water is clear up to the bottom edge, then other times of year it is 4 to 6 feet below. and needing a step ladder sunk in mud to climb off and get down to the water.... doesn't do ya much good.

prefer an attachment point to bank of the lake. and floating the other end out in the water. so the edge out in the water is always right there regardless of what water level the lake is at.

for me i used a T setup. long bridge /planks out into the lake. then a couple drums off each side to form a TEE. it helps stabilizes the end clear out in the lake from tipping back and forth. and gives a little bit more umph. when ya walking a trolling motor battery out there. or tossing stuff up on from fishing or what not from a boat.

2" to 3" metal pipe is what i used for anchor points down into the mud.
i get some rather high winds, and with the 55 gallon drum hilly billy raft, and 8 to 10 foot fishing boat, and then a paddle boat. all roped up to the dock. i need a tad more umph to keep the dock from waving bye bye to me and blowing away. 4 posts on the top of the T, 2 posts in the arm pits of the T, and 2 posts up on bank. a little bit of rope that is a little loose holds everything pretty good. and lets everything move up and down as the water raises / lowers in the lake. the 4 posts on top of the T, helps blow up rafts, boats / etc.. from getting caught up under the raft, and helps with getting toes/ fingers pinched.

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ok i didn't mean all that blah blah... but getting to the point some 2" to 3" metal pipe might be easier to install. you can pick up galvanized to aluminum that should work for what ya need i would imagine. and most likely last longer than lumber down in the water. also much easier to use a T post driver or something similar to drive the posts down.

as much as "whatswrong" was laughing. trying to deal with 6x6 in a boat. 2" to 3" can be enough to send ya overboard. partial reason why i like the floating dock / rafts. i can build them and float them. and then crawl my way on to them. to set the posts. without having to deal with a fishing boat that is wanting to tip size way to quickly.