Pole shed addition / adding on to poles of existing to hold new higher trusses

[Randy Nichols]

planning on adding onto a 24x32 pole shed with 9' ceiling with a 30x48 addition w 16' ceilings
was hoping to bear on some of existing post but would need to extend taller any ideas for adding to the top.
the rest of the building will be ladder framed

 

[deezler]

Hmm. Interesting idea.

Do you have concrete in the existing shop? How thick a slab, and is it atop any sort of foundation? Are the current barn posts nice solid 6x6s, or something smaller?

My first thought is to sister new poles next to your old ones instead. I cant see how plopping new sections of post atop your current poles is going to be very stable. Maybe if you run a full 2x6 up each side and tie it all together....?

What does "ladder framed" mean? Standard pole barn framing style?

 

[Roadworthy]

Here in Washington all pole buildings must be designed or approved by a licensed mechanical engineer. In your case the input of a mechanical engineer would be a stellar idea.

 

[Randy Nichols]

CONCRETE IS IN EXISTING BUILDING. 4" slab around posts 4" in ground i would assume I didn't build it. 4x6 posts
ladder frame means that sections are built 2x6 8' o.c. with the girts turned and between 26 so when stood up on top of footing edge slab you create a 3 ply 2x6 under the
truss location. wall is at that point ready for steel on both sides

was thinking of doing something with LSL lumber one on ether side and a third spanning across the 4x6 and the 2 2x6

 

[Randy Nichols]

Hmm. Interesting idea.

Do you have concrete in the existing shop? How thick a slab, and is it atop any sort of foundation? Are the current barn posts nice solid 6x6s, or something smaller?

My first thought is to sister new poles next to your old ones instead. I cant see how plopping new sections of post atop your current poles is going to be very stable. Maybe if you run a full 2x6 up each side and tie it all together....?

What does "ladder framed" mean? Standard pole barn framing style?

CONCRETE IS IN EXISTING BUILDING. 4" slab around posts 4" in ground i would assume I didn't build it. 4x6 posts
ladder frame means that sections are built 2x6 8' o.c. with the girts turned and between 26 so when stood up on top of footing edge slab you create a 3 ply 2x6 under the
truss location. wall is at that point ready for steel on both sides

was thinking of doing something with LSL lumber one on ether side and a third spanning across the 4x6 and the 2 2x6

 

[Farmer495]

If it was me I'd build the new 30x48 completely separate. My opinion is there are too many roof lines and joints and it will leak at some point, and you can't reliable extend the poles.

If you need indoor access to both buildings, build a covered breezeway, I can see that being handy if all your tools and things are in the original building and you are working in the bigger one.

 

[Midniteoyl]

Are you planing to open the walls between? If so, you would need to beef up the posts there already to support the bigger building.

Personally, I wouldn't have the existing building sitting inside the new building's footprint and have it butted too it.. I would replace the posts on the small building with the taller ones from the larger building and tie the smaller's existing top boards to the new poles. Then simply cover the existing part of the small building's roof with a simple ledger board on the taller's wall and rafters tying into the smaller's ridge, adding a kneewall midspan if needed, and leaving the existing trusses in place.

 

[Randy Nichols]

Are you planing to open the walls between? If so, you would need to beef up the posts there already to support the bigger building.

Personally, I wouldn't have the existing building sitting inside the new building's footprint and have it butted too it.. I would replace the posts on the small building with the taller ones from the larger building and tie the smaller's existing top boards to the new poles. Then simply cover the existing part of the small building's roof with a simple ledger board on the taller's wall and rafters tying into the smaller's ridge, adding a kneewall midspan if needed, and leaving the existing trusses in place.

I think i will look into cantiliering the one side 6' so that i can install new post on the outside of the joining wall so the weight is not on the posts of the existing at all it would just be framing to fill in the overbuild

 

[s219]

That is way too awkward -- buildings are never joined up like that, for many reasons. Do the two buildings have to be in that arrangement? Since the new building's walls are taller than the old building's roof peak, you'd be better off turning the new building 90 degrees and mating up that way.

If you must keep them in that arrangement, then I'd separate the buildings by about 8 feet and connect them with a breezeway (open or enclosed). Done right, it will look better too.

 

[ljjhouser]

If it was me I'd build the new 30x48 completely separate. My opinion is there are too many roof lines and joints and it will leak at some point, and you can't reliable extend the poles.

I agree. I might even separate the two buildings 15' or so apart, making a parking area for trailers or implements. Connect the roof lines to make it out of sun and rain.