Pole barn construction technique

[Ryan03]

I am in the middle stages of planning my new pole barn/shop. It will be 32x48x12. I am familiar with conventional post frame construction. Recently, a method of framing I am not familiar with was suggested to me. This method uses shorter post, around 6ft, with only 2ft or so above grade, then header boards and sill plates are attached to the post above grade creating a knee wall of sorts. The remainder of the wall section is constructed of 2x4 studs 16 on center and placed on top of the knee wall to form a wall section. I was told this system aids in the finishing of the inside of the building, and can be cheaper when all is said and done if you plan to finish the inside of the barn, which I do. Can anybody tell me what the name of this type of framing is, as well as pro's and con's, cost vs conventional pole barn.

I already tried doin a google search, but don't realy know the term to search for. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks, Ryan.

 

[quicksandfarmer]

I think I'd call that a post and pier foundation. If I was only going up 2' with the posts I think I'd use Sonotubes and concrete instead of poles.

I'm not an expert but I have an opinion.

 

[MarkV]

My first thought was that you would be creating a hinge point that would not be as resistant to wind load as poles going from ground to roof. Then I thought with the upper section being stick framed you would likely be sheathing the walls with ply or OSB and that might overcome the hinge affect.

How about some more detail on how you plan to cover the barn.

MarkV

 

[Iplayfarmer]

I don't know what you'd call that type of construction, but I'm using it on a part of my workshop build... http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/projects/239349-root-cellar-remodel-split-level.html

I have a 10' X 10' Root Cellar, and in order to build a 12' X 16' shop over the top of it I'm using poles to support three of the corners. Once I get the subfloor built I'll go the rest of the way up with stick framing.

 

[Ryan03]

My first thought was that you would be creating a hinge point that would not be as resistant to wind load as poles going from ground to roof. Then I thought with the upper section being stick framed you would likely be sheathing the walls with ply or OSB and that might overcome the hinge affect.

How about some more detail on how you plan to cover the barn.

MarkV

The barn will be sheeted with osb, then vinyle sided. Roof will be a asphalt shingle. Doors will be one 16 x10, and one man door. The minimum required roof snow load capacity in my area is 35. Roof will use free span trusses 16 inches on center.

This is a building technique that has been realy catching on in my area the last 5 or so years. I was able to look at a barn today that is being constructed very similar to the one that I am proposing. This one used 4x6 post 36 inches below grade, and one foot above grade. There were 2x12 header boards on either side of the 4x6's, then a 2x8 sill plate on top of the header boards. Conventional 2x4x12 stud walls were built on top of the sill plates. The barn I looked at today will get a 6 inch thick concrete floor, and when finished, the concrete will be level with the bottom of the sill plate. The header boards that the sill plate rest on will serve as the edge forms for the concrete floor, and the floor will sit on 6 inches of #8 lime stone.

I realy liked what I saw. Especialy the way the floor will come right up to the stud walls. Looks like a real sturdy design. If I go this route, I may opt for 2x6 stud walls over 2x4.

 

[KentT]

I realy liked what I saw. Especialy the way the floor will come right up to the stud walls. Looks like a real sturdy design. If I go this route, I may opt for 2x6 stud walls over 2x4.

2x6's on 24" center are about the same cost as 2x4's on 16" center and provide a deeper wall space for either insulation or recessed shelves...

 

[piller]

Sounds like an interesting building method. What is the spacing between the poles in the ground?

As someone else mentioned my thought was about bracing the walls against wind loading, the walls will be braced at the corners naturally, how about the top of the 12 foot walls, in the middle of your 48 foot wall? Is there a wide top plate that provides stiffness, or perhaps braces to your trusses?

 

[Ryan03]

Sounds like an interesting building method. What is the spacing between the poles in the ground?

As someone else mentioned my thought was about bracing the walls against wind loading, the walls will be braced at the corners naturally, how about the top of the 12 foot walls, in the middle of your 48 foot wall? Is there a wide top plate that provides stiffness, or perhaps braces to your trusses?

I did not get a chance to look at the top wall bracings, however the barn belongs to a freind, and I plan to stop in again this week end to take a real good look and maybe some photos. Here is a link I found with this type of construction. It looks like this is a cheaper product due to the fact that they are only using 2x10's and a 4 inch floor that does not come up to the sill plate, but it gives you a pretty good idea of how this is done.

http://www.thebarnyardstore.com/custom-garages/foundation-options/39-posted-foundations

 

[ALKY]

I built an addition on my mobile home similar to this.6x6 3ft inground to floor grade.floor deck like a 2 story,with stick built walls shingle roof. Easy and code inspector liked it!:thumbsup:

 

[BeezFun]

I like this style construction. I'm getting ready to put up a pole barn garage, this has the advantage of letting me use framing techniques I'm familiar with as soon as I get above grade. And more traditional truss spacing on top plate type of design rather than heavy trusses on each pole or on ledgers. Thanks for the info.