Plow: Which one is better buy?

   / Plow: Which one is better buy? #2  
ferguson for the money, both built around same time- do same thing
 
   / Plow: Which one is better buy? #3  
I strongly recommend coulters and the Ferguson does not say it has them. Of course if you are not going to be plowing much trash they are not a big deal and I would go with the Ferguson because of price.
 
   / Plow: Which one is better buy? #4  
Both are good plows. I personally like the Ferguson better - wouldn't trade mine for the world. Have had both. No wear parts available for Ferguson anymore, so you better not need any or break anything. Dearborn parts are readily available and cheap.
 
   / Plow: Which one is better buy?
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I just agreed to buy the ferguson -- will pick- up this weekend. Does this plow have a spring reset or shear pin In case I hit a rock? I learned it has two 16 inch bottoms with coulters. The ground I am going to plow hasn't been farmed in maybe 10 years. Hopefully my 40 HP Tractor can cut it. It does have 4WD.
 
   / Plow: Which one is better buy? #6  
You may consider having the land you plan on plowing subsoiled before plowing. Especially since it hasn't been worked for 10 years.
 
   / Plow: Which one is better buy? #7  
The old fergusons had neither trip mechanisms or shear pins. Like I said previously, go slow so you don't break anything because you cannot get parts. I have a single Ferguson with an extra deep 16 inch bottom and pull it with 26hp (4wd). You'll work for it with your setup, but should do fine. If you're plowing through unplowed heavy sod, you'll likely have to stand on the diff. lock and not go too deep. Don't forget to post pics!
 
   / Plow: Which one is better buy? #8  
LouieJunior,
This may give you a very vague baseline to go on in regards to your tractor,pulling your Ferguson 2 bottom plow. I have (what I think is),,the same beam plow,only my two bottom is only 12" moldboards. My plow does have coulters on it,which if you are going to be turning 'sod' that has not been turned for 10 years the coulters will be a big plus for you. I think you said this plow does have the coulters on it? I have an MT2501D Mitsubishi 4WD 30/25 hp - pto and mine pullls my plow easily,,although I have only plowed black dirt. I know clay will make quite a difference pulling yours. Yours should have a tail wheel on it,if someone hasn't pitched it. Post up some pics,,when you get your plow home.

Take Care,
Barry
 
   / Plow: Which one is better buy?
  • Thread Starter
#9  
LouieJunior,
This may give you a very vague baseline to go on in regards to your tractor,pulling your Ferguson 2 bottom plow. I have (what I think is),,the same beam plow,only my two bottom is only 12" moldboards. My plow does have coulters on it,which if you are going to be turning 'sod' that has not been turned for 10 years the coulters will be a big plus for you. I think you said this plow does have the coulters on it? I have an MT2501D Mitsubishi 4WD 30/25 hp - pto and mine pullls my plow easily,,although I have only plowed black dirt. I know clay will make quite a difference pulling yours. Yours should have a tail wheel on it,if someone hasn't pitched it. Post up some pics,,when you get your plow home.

Take Care,
Barry

Thanks Barry! The seller reports it does have coulters, which I know I'll need -- don't know about the tail wheel. My ground is black, river bottoms -- not clay. Most of it is farmed by a professional except for a few remote fields on a peninsula abandoned by my farmer. Yields were always under attack by the deer and the beavers. These are the ones I hope to plow. Four acres and sixteen acres -- probably fewer now with the willows encroaching. I will take pictures.

Does your plow have a leveling adjustment -- or do you square it up with your hitch?
 
   / Plow: Which one is better buy? #10  
Does your plow have a leveling adjustment -- or do you square it up with your hitch?

youlll need to search about setting up a 2 bottom if you dont know how.

the quick verison
on flat ground (pavement is recomended)
1) block left tire up ~6"
2) level plow side to side.
3) level plow front to back
4) offest plow so the heal side of the share is roughly inline with the inside edge of the right tire.

durring the second pass you can start with adjustments. bottom of the furrow should be flat, the rolled sod should be equal.

troubleshooting
if the plow doesnt want to bite on its own, tow down slightly (top link adjustment)
if the plow wants to dive and not run flat, its pointed down to much bring tow back up. (toplink)
if bottom of furrow is not flat, you need to adjust tilt (side link)
if inside row is narrow/wider than outside row, you need to swing plow left/right (away/toward) inside of the left tire.

most plows from this age are designed for 3mph. below 1.5 or so they wont flip the sod, above 5 they will roll it 360.

Pulling my 2x14 deerborn behind my TC33 is a HARD pull. takes 4x4 with diff lock and a well setup plow.

results look like Plowing the garden - YouTube (although my sideshift is slightly off)
 
 

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