Box Scraper Please Help! Which Gannon Scraper Box Shanks do I need to buy ???

[kokosnood]

Hi Everyone!
I'm very happy to be a tractor owner.
We bought our Kubota HST 2800 xtra used with a gannon and a bush hog; BUT the gannon didn't have any teeth (shanks.)

I need to purchase 5 shanks.

Here are some pictures (I think it is a pretty common box blade):

The bar that holds the teeth is 12" high and it is 3.5" thick
The holes for the shanks are 2 3/4 x 7/8

So we found this online:
https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B07KS3JBMB?pf_rd_p=019ad97c-f176-43be-96b9-991a6dc65763&pf_rd_r=92GKXHHWVB322WA9F9N5

But these shanks on Amazon don't seem long enough. They would just reach the bottom of the box at the lowest depth. They have numbers in the description: H920 & 8075.

What do these numbers mean? What number do I need? Somebody please help me. There are already 2 jobs we have that require shanks. The people at Tractor Supply didn't seem knowledgeable and they didn't have any shanks in stock.

Also, in the last picture: what are those little brackets? Looks like they were welded on after market...

Thank You in advance!
Stefan

 

[Fallon]

7 - Gannon Scraper Box Shanks w Scarifier Teeth & Clips - H920 , 8075 , K1306 | eBay is the set I got for my old Gannon. Mine can rotate the whole scarfier bar back out of the way. In addition to adjusting the height of the scarfiers in the frame.

Gannon - Google Photos

 

[BukitCase]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I doubt very much that what you got was a Gannon product - I've owned a couple, have a 7' currently with hydraulic scarifiers - mine look exactly like the ones in the ebay link. I've never seen an actual Gannon box that did NOT have a rotating scarifier bar, either manual or hydraulic. My 7' Gannon weighs right at 1100 pounds, from your pics that one looks like about HALF that or less.

also, check out Fallon's google images - notice that the top link towers on all the pics are made the same way, and NOT like yours... You don't have your area in your profile, but I'm wondering if wherever it is the term "gannon" might be used for ANY box blade, like "skil saw", "xerox", etc -

As to the numbers on the ones you found, I haven't a clue what those mean, but it does sound like yours would need longer ones (and a way to stow them out of the way when NOT in use.) I would NOT order rippers just because it says "gannon" on 'em, instead I would figure out how long they NEED to be, and how you'll need to lock them in place.

The little tabs may be some type of anchor for a 1 piece locking bar - if so, yours might take rippers similar to the gannons with the two notches (two height choices) - other types have tabs like that beside EACH ripper slot, and use 3-4 spaced holes CENTERED on the shanks, with retaining bolts (thru the tabs) for each individual ripper.

Depending on your soil conditions, rippers alone may not "git-r-done" - you might need to figure out a way to add a few hundred pounds to that blade so it'll cut.

Again, I wish I had better news, but hopefully now you'll have a better idea of what to look for... Steve

Oh, also - do you understand that the dimensioned diagram in the Amazon link, does NOT include the added approximately 3" length of the peen-on ripper teeth? Look at the pic; that "dimple" in the side of the ripper gets the tooth pushed on til the sides of the tooth's "pocket" lines up with the dimple, then a big hammer and punch gets used to smash the sides of the pocket into those dimples. All the REST of the tooth adds to overall length.

One more thing - if by chance your ripper slots actually FIT the ones in your amazon link, that offering does NOT include the spring clip retainers - these

https://www.amazon.com/Gannon-Box-S...5FK8NFK5DQG&psc=1&refRID=AT9ZW0DG65FK8NFK5DQG

go across the ripper slot on the OPPOSITE side as the notches, with the "springy" parts ACROSS the slot - they're what keeps the notch in each ripper engaged in the ripper carrier bar. The "springy" part of the clip is just to keep tension on the clip, NOT to push on the ripper itself... Steve

 

[Fallon]

I hate to be the bearer of bad news, but I doubt very much that what you got was a Gannon product

I'm inclined to agree. All the Gannons I've seen looked very similar to mine, with less rust. They might have made a lighter weight model, but I've never seen one.

 

[kokosnood]

Sorry, I just used "gannon" as a generic term...so do you think the link to the shanks I gave would work?

"do you understand that the dimensioned diagram in the Amazon link, does NOT include the added approximately 3" length of the peen-on ripper teeth? Look at the pic; that "dimple" in the side of the ripper gets the tooth pushed on til the sides of the tooth's "pocket" lines up with the dimple, then a big hammer and punch gets used to smash the sides of the pocket into those dimples. All the REST of the tooth adds to overall length."

 

[BukitCase]

It should, if the listed dimensions would bring the end of the (toothless) shank even with the bottom of the box -(that should give you about 3" of protrusion). If you try to rip much more than 2-3" in some soils, it'll bring your small tractor to a sudden stop...

If you wanna get practical, I would order the SIX shank set with teeth in case you lose or bend one , and FORGET about those spring clips - 1, I'd forgotten how "proud" they are of those, and (2) they sometimes get lost in the heat of battle - you can accomplish retention for less, just get a handful of the largest diameter bolts you can slip in behind the shank (6" long should do) - it's less painful to lose a 75 cent bolt than an $8 spring clip. No need for nuts on those "retainer" bolts, just make sure they stick out BELOW the ripper carrier by an inch or two. Gravity will usually keep 'em in place.

Or, if you have an acetylene torch you can buy 3/4" square key stock and make "L" shaped retainers, takes longer but they tend to stay put a little better than bolts.

Either way, with that style ripper bar I would stow the shanks (with retainers) upside down in the notch that's furthest from the back end when you're gonna MOVE what you ripped up, otherwise clods and such tend to get stuck between rippers and become either a good way to BEND them, or at least make the box more difficult to empty.

Also, check after each pass to see if all the rippers are STILL THERE - it's much easier to find something that fell off if you DON'T have to dig very far (DAMHIKT...)... Steve