The steering cylinder is attached to the front axle with two bolts and positioned by a dowel pin. Because of the bolt hole clearances, the cylinder would move from the forces applied when turning the steering wheel and eventually the bolts would loosen up. Because of the location of the attaching bolts, it was almost impossible to retighten them without dropping the front axle.
I pulled the cylinder and bored out the bolt holes to accept tapered split cone washers. These are the same cone washers that are used to attach the steering arms to the knuckled on solid front axle Toyota 4 x 4s. I replaced the attaching bolts with M12x1.75 x 50mm studs and nuts. When the nuts are tightened down, the split cone washers are forced down into the tapered holes in the cylinder until they lock onto the stud, firmly locking the cylinder to the front axle. No more slop!
To taper the cylinder hole, I used a 20* end mill to match the taper of the cone washers. I tightened the nuts to 71 ft-lbs as per the Toyota specification.
I pulled the cylinder and bored out the bolt holes to accept tapered split cone washers. These are the same cone washers that are used to attach the steering arms to the knuckled on solid front axle Toyota 4 x 4s. I replaced the attaching bolts with M12x1.75 x 50mm studs and nuts. When the nuts are tightened down, the split cone washers are forced down into the tapered holes in the cylinder until they lock onto the stud, firmly locking the cylinder to the front axle. No more slop!
To taper the cylinder hole, I used a 20* end mill to match the taper of the cone washers. I tightened the nuts to 71 ft-lbs as per the Toyota specification.
