Painting a Pipe Fence

[Poopdeck Pappy]

I just had a local guy build a fence and gate for me. The entry and gate, along with the H braces on the ends and in the middle, are made from 3-1/2" and 2-7/8" pipe. It was built with new pipe, not used drill stem.

He just finished it today, so now I need to paint it before it starts to rust. After considerable research, it appears the best approach is to wipe the pipe down with mineral spirits, apply a primer formulated for ferrous metal, and then a coat of oil-based enamel formulated for ferrous metal (probably Rustoleum or Valspar).

I've read several people recommend using a car wash type sponge to apply the primer and paint (wearing a vinyl or rubber glove, of course). I've heard to Sherwin Williams sells a curved paint roller made for painting pipe, so I might try that too.

If anyone has any tips, tricks or guidance on this project, I'd sure welcome any advice. I always like to learn from others' experiences.

 

[boggen]

i would opt out of "black" paint. if you will be touching the gate to open/close it even only a couple times a year due to having some automatic gate opener. black paint = very hot to touch in summer. to point needing gloves, or hoping you have a long sleeve shirt you can pull down around your hand to open gate.

last year pulled everything out of basement. (ceiling, walls, etc...) of all insulation, drop down ceiling, boards etc... and what was left was a few cabnets built on the walls, lots of eletrical wire for home, gas lines running to stove and furnace and like, and water / sewage piping. along with lots of concrete brick. plus a center brick fire place in basement.

it was rather cold outside down in the 40's, and bought a "powered sprayer" from memnards. were you open up a 5 gallon or 1 gallon can of paint. drop a hose down into it. and away you went kinda like a pressure washer but painting. this baby used up a LOT of paint real fast. ended up having a lot of clogging issues. even with thiner and warming up paint in kitchen sink with hot water around can for a half day.

returned the above pump. (spent more time clearing out clogs than spray painting with it).

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then remember having an "air compressor" spray paint spray gun. takes about 1/4 to 1/2 gallon of paint. in a little cannister. and went at it. it took longer to finish things out (used less paint) and took a couple extra coats but result was very little runs. and acted much like a can of spray paint you shake for a few minutes before using, but worked with just regular paint.

Titan Tools 19220 Paint Spray Gun - Body Shop Tools (something like i have, but canister is below the gun and not above it)

as long as i cleaned the nozzles, and cleaned the gun with smallish pipe cleaner brushes in mineral spirits or like. after getting done using it. and adjusted the air compressor regulator correctly and BIG KEY, is added correct amount of paint thinner to the paint. it was very easy job. biggest issue was holding the gun up above head and working in between the floor joists for the main floor of the house. (your arm just wears out if not use to it)

all the wires / pipes / bricks etc... went on smoothly and while actually painting there was a couple noticeable kinda drips, or wave to things (dry paint to wet paint) but after fully drying and getting 1 to 4 coats on. i went down yesterday to try and see for myself were the spots were and i can not find anything. ((looks like winter wounder land still. due to it is all white paint)) i am actually kinda worried if i have to take a gas pipe or water pipe apart due to some leak or something. due to paint has a nice coating to it all. even the central a/c duct work for in/out air for the a/c unit the paint is holding up to vibrations, and sweating.

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the outside of the house = aluminum siding. that really showed it age. and brown paint in 1 gallon cans used. to paint the outside the house using the "airless sprayer via air compressor" and turned out well paint both siding, under the softet.

trying to use a paint roller, paint brush, sponges would have been a night mare! and took way to much time to do.

 

[Billrog]

I have 5 paint sprayers 3 of them airless but for a pipe fence I'd go with the rubber gloves and either the sponge idea or something similar. Spraying would waste far to much paint. Don't be skimpy with the paint put it on thick.

 

[Budweiser John]

I painted a wind mill tower with a painters mitt. Worked out pretty well and the project moved along remarkably fast. Only down side, the mitt is a one shot deal and don't expect to wear your jeans to next Sunday's early church service.

 

[chim]

Search for PAINT ROLLER FOR PIPE and you'll find things like the links below. We used some similar rollers years ago to coat conduit with tar.


https://jet.com/product/a5e1aff5c3e...3ed99d6b1d5d&gclid=CNaxxNWMpccCFQgtaQodjl8GGg

Wooster 4-1/2 in. Pipe Painter-00R2120044 - The Home Depot

 

[gsganzer]

I tried one of the paint mitts and it left more fuzz on the pipe then a european girls leg. I ended up using a brush. I painted about 1000' with a top rail and mid rail and it wasn't too difficult.

I used rustoleum red oxide primer and rustoleum almond top coat. It's held up well in some areas and not so well in others. I'm sure that Sherwin Williams or ICI would have something better.

 

[boggen]

maybe just me... but over years paint with brush or regular spray can. if you get to much paint all gopped up say in a corner or were 2 metal pieces come together. the paint will want to either crack / flake or pull away from metal as it drys / shrinks some. i have had better luck with multi thin layers of paint and allowed to dry between each layer. the issue has shown up from regular glues to silicons, to paints, to spray foam.

you saying your wasting a lot of paint via spray painting. but it seems to stick better long term. at least for me. and seems to be a noticable difference when it comes to taking paint back off. if it was sprayed on vs painted with brush / roller / sponge or like. the spray on seems to stick / adhere better, to metal / wood and like.

 

[SPIKER]

You can use Jersey Gloves or even some of the heavier cotton type gloves to paint as above. Slip on some good rubber gloves stick on a pair of cheap fuzzy gloves dip hand in paint can and rub it on...

Clean it the same way using some mineral thinner and or TSP/Etching cleaner. Wipe down/dry the thinner and pipe until it is clean.

M

 

[EddieWalker]

For such a small job, I would just use a brush. By the time you get all the other stuff figured out, you could be done already doing it the old fashioned way.

The most important aspect of any paint job is the primer. You get what you pay for, and oil based is still a lot better then latex. Sherwin Williams has great paints, but you can get a really good primer from Home Depot or Lowes call Zinsser BIN. It's water, it smells bad, and it sticks to everything forever. You will make a mess using it, but once you are done, you'll realize it was worth it.

Another option would be to talk to an automotive paint store and ask what they feel is the best primer for raw metal

For the top coat, I've always had very good luck with Rustoleum paints. If there is an option of standard or premium grade, I always spend the extra mont for the very best I can get.

 

[SPIKER]

For such a small job, I would just use a brush. By the time you get all the other stuff figured out, you could be done already doing it the old fashioned way.

The most important aspect of any paint job is the primer. You get what you pay for, and oil based is still a lot better then latex. Sherwin Williams has great paints, but you can get a really good primer from Home Depot or Lowes call Zinsser BIN. It's water, it smells bad, and it sticks to everything forever. You will make a mess using it, but once you are done, you'll realize it was worth it.

Another option would be to talk to an automotive paint store and ask what they feel is the best primer for raw metal

For the top coat, I've always had very good luck with Rustoleum paints. If there is an option of standard or premium grade, I always spend the extra mont for the very best I can get.

I agree w Eddy if job is smaller (100 feet or less) however one exception is RUSTOLEUM stuff is horrible (IMHO) as everything I have used of it was rusted thru in short order or paint peals off.

I painted cars/trucks/equipment for a living for years and know what is good prep work and what SHOULD stick and last. Rustoleum does not fit the bill in any of those applications.

Good paint used to be able to be had at TSC and hardener was available there too (last time I was there they changed brands so I dont have experience with that brand any longer) my neighbor works as chemical engr at paint mfg plant so I have not had to BUY paint or hardener/thinners for a LONG time...

Lat thing I painted from TSC was DUMP wagon in 2002 with my doing metal prep and using a good etching cleaner it just recently started rusting some in bed where scrapped up by rocks & mostly cause I left wood set in it for a summer thru winter long & bunch of Oak Bark (acidic) sat in there.

pre-paint taken on 7th of Aug

Aug 02

Post paint



In full use on 13th of Aug & paint was with hardener & did not scratch up



M