Paint for implements - Rustoleum, store brand equivalent, or what?

[California]

I asked this over in Implements and got a few excellent replies but I'd still like to see a wider range of opinions:

I see Rustoleum red primer and finish paint next to store brand equivalents at Ace Hardware, TSC etc. The house brands are less expensive. Anybody know if the store brands are the same thing relabeled?


Second question - Is alkyd oil-base 'exterior' paint suitable as the prime or finish coat for implements left outdoors?

One more question - 'Latex exterior metal primer'. Any good?

Thanks in advance for any advice.

 

[CADplans]

If you like,,, yellow, black, or white,,,
the best paint (cheap too!!) is the paint at the local CAT dealer.
It is self priming,, and offers very long life.

 

[2458n]

Rustoleum offered a lobster red can of spray paint that was a dead match for Kubota. Learned of it here. Bad news is Walmart no longer stocks it. Will be trying to make my last ten cans last - as the search goes on.

 

[bcp]

Rustoleum offered a lobster red can of spray paint that was a dead match for Kubota. Learned of it here. Bad news is Walmart no longer stocks it. Will be trying to make my last ten cans last - as the search goes on.

Looks like it can still be ordered from Home Depot.

Rust-Oleum Stops Rust 12 oz. Gloss Lobster Red Protective Enamel Spray Paint (Case of 6)-254 - The Home Depot

Bruce

 

[SJay]

I would not us any latex paint on your implements. It will not hold up. I have had success with Rust-Oleum brand oil based paints. Another good choice is Benjamin Moore Impervo Oil based paints (getting harder to get because of government regs)

 

[RedNeckGeek]

Five years ago I painted a steel gate with Rustoleum Hammertone in a dark gray. Now it's all faded and chalky, and I'm sorry I used it.

Three years ago I used some TSC rattle can orange to touch up a Kubota FEL, and now it has faded to a really ugly pastel. Sorry about that one, too.

Were I to do it again, and I probably will some day, I'd go to an automotive paint dealer and buy the best quality base coat/clear coat finish they sold. Automotive paint has UV stabilizers in it, especially the higher end clears, that make it much more resistant to fading. The only problem is that most of them also need a two part urethane primer, and most of those will cause conventional finishes to lift. So that means stripping off the bad paint down to the metal. But it'll be the last time I ever need to paint 'em again...

 

[/pine]

A quality finish can be achieved with most decent quality paints...The key is in the application and preparation...i.e., read and follow the directions...pay attention to the ambient temperature and humidity...

 

[sld]

I've had great luck with the spray cans at Tractor Supply.

I do prefer oil based any more if it's stored outside in the elements. For that I have been using Rustoleum in the 1/2 quart cans. Don't know about house brands as Rustoleum is pretty cheap to start with.

 

[ray66v]

Were I to do it again, and I probably will some day, I'd go to an automotive paint dealer and buy the best quality base coat/clear coat finish they sold. Automotive paint has UV stabilizers in it, especially the higher end clears, that make it much more resistant to fading. The only problem is that most of them also need a two part urethane primer, and most of those will cause conventional finishes to lift. So that means stripping off the bad paint down to the metal. But it'll be the last time I ever need to paint 'em again...

Yes, automotive paint resists fading better. That's why it often costs 10x more, and up.

I have decades of experience with automotive paint.

While it can provide a little more UV resistance, base coat/clear coat, is not necessary, if unless you are spraying a metallic finish. There are many single stage automotive products that will work just fine with solid colors. And, can actually provide better chip resistance, at a lower cost

You do not have to use a 2 part primer under automotive finishes. I have sprayed tons of it over soluble primers, like lacquer primers, and enamel primers. It can work fine.

However, the quality of the primer, and the prep work, has more to do with the durability of the job, than the paint.

A two part primer can cross link, on a molecular level, with a two part finish, if applied properly. And, this gives the highest level of chip resistance.

For implements, as the OP was looking for, a good two part primer under industrial enamel, like Rustoleum, holds up very well, as far as corrosion resistance is concerned. And, is reasonably economical. But, it does fade.

 

[sixdogs]

The best deal is OEM paint from the dealer. It is in their best interest to have nice looking equipment around so they make a quality paint at a relatively inexpensive price. There are old threads on this that detail things better but farm store paint generally sucks and won't last. Rustoleum is better than farm store if you can find the colors but OEM is the easy winner.

I use Rustoleum Rusty Metal primer on most farm equipment and then follow up with the correct OEM and many people remark what a great job I did when it really is just the right paint. Buy OEM and do it right.

Oh, use a good Harbor Freight HVLP paint gun. They make a couple that are surprisingly good.


http://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/parts-repairs/355488-why-only-use-oem-paint.html