JSUnlimited
Platinum Member
What's everyones thoughts on WIX filters? Not trying to stir the pot, just wanted to hear if they are worth paying extra for. I've been using them on all my vehicles, but not the NH. I use NH filters during warranty.
Opinons on WIX filters.
- Thread starter JSUnlimited
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TractorLegend
Platinum Member
I think WIX has a great rep., I think Napas Gold filters are WIX
We use STP at the shop.
K&N has some real heavy duty ones sold thru CSK/ Schucks.
Mobil 1 filters tout a small micron rating.
I think Amsoil markets some mega filters.
Lots of good ones.
If you want the ultimate filtration, install a bypass filter set up.
You would have a line coming off an oil pressure source to a filter and adapter set up, and the return would go back into the sump.
I copied this from another post I responded to:
It's funny you mention filters: I have an apprentice/ job shadow fellow working at my auto shop. For a class project we/ I / him thought it would be interesting to cut open oil filters to check out the differences. I remember in my starting years you could cut open a Fram and it had minimal, cheesy looking media.
He obtained several filters: AutoZones cheapest Autovalue? line , Fram, STP, Motocraft, factory Subaru. and a couple others.
Obviously I couldnt determine micron ratings, but we felt based on visual specs that there wasn't a nickels difference anymore between them. Even the cheap ones had some fashion of check valving type of sealing in the filter. The material they used on the Ford ones appeard to be silicone as opposed to black rubberish material but the filter still had this device.
We expected to see some remarkable differences in construction but didn't in our unscientific observations.
We use STP at the shop.
K&N has some real heavy duty ones sold thru CSK/ Schucks.
Mobil 1 filters tout a small micron rating.
I think Amsoil markets some mega filters.
Lots of good ones.
If you want the ultimate filtration, install a bypass filter set up.
You would have a line coming off an oil pressure source to a filter and adapter set up, and the return would go back into the sump.
I copied this from another post I responded to:
It's funny you mention filters: I have an apprentice/ job shadow fellow working at my auto shop. For a class project we/ I / him thought it would be interesting to cut open oil filters to check out the differences. I remember in my starting years you could cut open a Fram and it had minimal, cheesy looking media.
He obtained several filters: AutoZones cheapest Autovalue? line , Fram, STP, Motocraft, factory Subaru. and a couple others.
Obviously I couldnt determine micron ratings, but we felt based on visual specs that there wasn't a nickels difference anymore between them. Even the cheap ones had some fashion of check valving type of sealing in the filter. The material they used on the Ford ones appeard to be silicone as opposed to black rubberish material but the filter still had this device.
We expected to see some remarkable differences in construction but didn't in our unscientific observations.
I would personally select AC, Pure One, Mobil, Baldwin or Fleetguard before Wix but that again is me. Nothing wrong with Wix though. I know about 5 years ago (maybe longer) Amsoil had to re-do there oil filters since Mobil was catching up to them.
Oil filters will have different shells, different media inside, Anti-Drain Back Valve, spring different and oil relieve valve. Maybe even different sealing gaskets. Most times these filters are tested per SAE HS806 (efficiency/capacity). Then and only then can you compare apples to apples. Based soly on looking is not going to get you far. That is like saying oil is bad based on color.
Yes, a bypass will help a lot but factor in the filter replacement price, the by-pass itself and then make-up oil. Unless you put on lot and lots of miles or hours, you will never see a savings. I looked into it and it was cheaper to do oil changes then using a by-pass.
Oil filters will have different shells, different media inside, Anti-Drain Back Valve, spring different and oil relieve valve. Maybe even different sealing gaskets. Most times these filters are tested per SAE HS806 (efficiency/capacity). Then and only then can you compare apples to apples. Based soly on looking is not going to get you far. That is like saying oil is bad based on color.
Yes, a bypass will help a lot but factor in the filter replacement price, the by-pass itself and then make-up oil. Unless you put on lot and lots of miles or hours, you will never see a savings. I looked into it and it was cheaper to do oil changes then using a by-pass.
jayhawkRoy
Silver Member
I use Wix on our Subarus. Frankly, I can't tell the difference in performance/start up noise, etc between Purolator (regular or Pure One) or Wix. Last time I priced a Wix for a NH TC 30, the NH brand was within a dollar of the Wix price. You may be just as well off purchasing NH if it is not too inconvenient.
TractorLegend
Platinum Member
Oil filters will have different shells, different media inside, Anti-Drain Back Valve, spring different and oil relieve valve. Maybe even different sealing gaskets. Most times these filters are tested per SAE HS806 (efficiency/capacity). Then and only then can you compare apples to apples. Based soly on looking is not going to get you far. That is like saying oil is bad based on color.
Yes, a bypass will help a lot but factor in the filter replacement price, the by-pass itself and then make-up oil. Unless you put on lot and lots of miles or hours, you will never see a savings. I looked into it and it was cheaper to do oil changes then using a by-pass.
>>>I didn't see any examples to back up this claim, or any evidence. I was able to tell about brands we cut open and wasnt making any scientific claims.
And yes if I pull a dipstick and it looks like rotten fudge, I don't have a problem with calling it bad.
Some people may care more about things than cost, so I offer diverse point of view that may not agree with you. But you didn't pay anything for it.
Theres more to an engines overall lube situation than how long you can leave it in.
We see intakes plugged up all the time from "extended" oil drains that coke up the throttle bores, coat the entire tract with an oily carbony mess from short trips and lack of fuel cleaners and the PCV vapors are responsible. But Im ok if you prefer to do it. The oil may not be worn out, but it will contaminate via PCV.
God bless everyone who runs filthy oil---they pay my mortgage.
Yes, a bypass will help a lot but factor in the filter replacement price, the by-pass itself and then make-up oil. Unless you put on lot and lots of miles or hours, you will never see a savings. I looked into it and it was cheaper to do oil changes then using a by-pass.
>>>I didn't see any examples to back up this claim, or any evidence. I was able to tell about brands we cut open and wasnt making any scientific claims.
And yes if I pull a dipstick and it looks like rotten fudge, I don't have a problem with calling it bad.
Some people may care more about things than cost, so I offer diverse point of view that may not agree with you. But you didn't pay anything for it.
Theres more to an engines overall lube situation than how long you can leave it in.
We see intakes plugged up all the time from "extended" oil drains that coke up the throttle bores, coat the entire tract with an oily carbony mess from short trips and lack of fuel cleaners and the PCV vapors are responsible. But Im ok if you prefer to do it. The oil may not be worn out, but it will contaminate via PCV.
God bless everyone who runs filthy oil---they pay my mortgage.
Examples of this are online. Just takes some looking. Again if you think they are all the same you must think all oil are the same. /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
Again if you have a bad PCV issues it will should up as oxidation/nitration. You should also have varnish on the dipstick if you have PCV issues. All the things you stated will show up via something. Just takes a little time to figure out what and where. IF you think contaminated oil pluged a PCV you have more to worry about then oil and oil is not the problem.
But on the flip side the low drains are typical of most dealers. Want more money and they have nothing to prove it. I have some oils test and getting ready to do another on the car (only 11K on this drain). Runs perfect here. No carbon on upper intake, never see an idle valve, EGR valve, sticking throttle body, or plugged cold-start injector creating a problem. ..go figure.
I have also seen people who use fuel cleaners to often and mess stuff up too.
I do thank people for buying oil. It makes my stock go up and I do not know what filthy oil is or how it is deffined. So far, by my oils tests it is fine. If you want to see them, they are online.
Again if you have a bad PCV issues it will should up as oxidation/nitration. You should also have varnish on the dipstick if you have PCV issues. All the things you stated will show up via something. Just takes a little time to figure out what and where. IF you think contaminated oil pluged a PCV you have more to worry about then oil and oil is not the problem.
But on the flip side the low drains are typical of most dealers. Want more money and they have nothing to prove it. I have some oils test and getting ready to do another on the car (only 11K on this drain). Runs perfect here. No carbon on upper intake, never see an idle valve, EGR valve, sticking throttle body, or plugged cold-start injector creating a problem. ..go figure.
I have also seen people who use fuel cleaners to often and mess stuff up too.
I do thank people for buying oil. It makes my stock go up and I do not know what filthy oil is or how it is deffined. So far, by my oils tests it is fine. If you want to see them, they are online.
penokee
Platinum Member
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Mega - I use WIX filters on my 1952 FERGUSON TO-20. Why? Wish I had a scientific type answer, but use them because of their reputation and figure a few extra dollars is a little insurance on keeping the old girl running without major eingine repairs.
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
penokee /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
DHennet
Bronze Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I use Wix on our Subarus. Frankly, I can't tell the difference in performance/start up noise )</font>
Still sounds like a giant sewing machine? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Still sounds like a giant sewing machine? /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
Soundguy
Old Timer
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I use WIX filters on my 1952 FERGUSON TO-20 )</font>
I use a napa 1010g on my 52 ford 8n for the 'full time' filter. I may use a cheap fram c3 if I get a new machine and am doing an oil flush with walmart oil for a few days.. but on the final change.. I usually drop inthe napa fitler.. etc..
Soundguy
I use a napa 1010g on my 52 ford 8n for the 'full time' filter. I may use a cheap fram c3 if I get a new machine and am doing an oil flush with walmart oil for a few days.. but on the final change.. I usually drop inthe napa fitler.. etc..
Soundguy
jayhawkRoy
Silver Member
Actually the Wix sounded noisier than the Advance Auto parts cheapie (made by Purolator) filter we are currently using. I used the Wix based on a recommendation that the Subaru WRX turbos like Wix filters, although we don't have a turbo. Will see if there is any noticeable difference this winter. Otherwise, best price will win.
Actually, my 91 Mazda B2000 pick up always sounded like a sewing machine. The Subarus are very quiet by comparison.
Actually, my 91 Mazda B2000 pick up always sounded like a sewing machine. The Subarus are very quiet by comparison.
