Old welding rod

Deere 2520 · Apr 30, 2012

I acquired a 5 pound box of 6011 1/8 diameter welding rod that is about 30 years old and it was stored in a damp garage. Is it still OK to use. If not, what as the concerns and how it react?

Shield Arc · Apr 30, 2012

Give them a try and see how they run. If they run erratic, (burns off to one side), dip a hand full in water, and let them air dry for a couple days then give them another try.

Gary Fowler · Apr 30, 2012

Break off the cellulose flux coating and look at the wire underneath. If it isnt rusty then they could likely be used. They may run a bit erratic but if you dont get bug hole porosity then they should be ok to practice with for sure. If the wire underneath is rusty, then you have to toss them.

moses21502 · Apr 30, 2012

i weld a lot and have a friend who retired as a welder and he told me to use a scrap piece of metal and burn about 1/2 an inch off the rod. then set it aside and do multiple sticks so you have them for later. the heat in the rod will dry it out. that's a trick he did to pass many welding certification tests. or put in a stove at real low heat for a few hrs. either works for me but the use of the stove gets a lot of complaining from the fairer sex in the house. lol

:thumbsup:

Little Red Tractor · Apr 30, 2012

Part of my dad's profession was as a welder. Lots of rod rode around in his truck, poorly protected from the weather. Burning off that 1/2 or so on scrap to head the rod usually worked to take care of moisture problems.
Don't recall ever dealing with rusty rod, though I'm sure it must have happened occasionally.
I'm only a hobbyist so I buy in small batches, only when I need it, so don't have that problem.

Deere 2520 · Apr 30, 2012

Thanks for the responses. I'm not a welder, but I also just acquired a welder too and thought I use the rod to weld some grab hook on my FEL.

moses21502 · May 2, 2012

6011 is ok for general use but 7011 is a lot stronger. the best place i have found is a tractor supply company store. just make sure the welds are really penetrated to both the hook and bucket. and put it off to one side so the weight does not bend the bucket. i had to reinforce both front and rear buckets after i bought it. someone tried:thumbsup: lifting to much before i got the machine. good luck

crash325 · May 2, 2012

Deere 2520 said:
Thanks for the responses. I'm not a welder, but I also just acquired a welder too and thought I use the rod to weld some grab hook on my FEL.

Before welding anything that you have to depend on for strength, weld a bunch of scrap together. Try a few break tests.

You do not want a hook on your FEL to give way when you have a load on it.
:2cents:

rsewill · May 3, 2012

Second the oven. Well baked. Only as needed.

Gary Fowler · May 3, 2012

You do know I think that 6010 do not require baking and in fact can ruin them if put in a 300F oven. If that box you got was sealed then you can be assured that they are still good. If they were just laying open or in some kind of cardboard container, just check the bare metal on some of the more whitish colored ones. If not rusty then go ahead and use them. You should know from all the discussions you have been in that 7018 is preferred over 6010 for welding high tensile or heavy loaded material. That said, even a poor 6010 weld if putting about 2-3 passes all the way around the grab hook will not only hold all a CUT can pick up but more than the FEL frame will stand so I wouldnt worry about it. The issue I have with 6010 is they dont stretch well and when they fail it is usually catastropic rather than bending a lot first prior to breaking.
Just weld with your rods and if they dont bug hole excessively they should be oK for what you are wanting to do. You may want to put on a reinforcing plate of say 3x4 or whatever size you can fit on the FEL bucket frame and then weld your chain hooks to that so you spread the load area a bit. I could fit a 4x6 on mine so that is what I put using 1/4" thick plate.