The dozen or so bolts holding the front frame to the engine block on the my 1200 (in pieces, see ford/nh owning) have locktite blue on them. The air wrench worked hard getting them out. Should I clean them up or just put them back in with some fresh blue? SteveV
Old locktite; remove or reuse?
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Bird
Rest in Peace
Steve, I think you'd be OK to just put them back in with a little fresh loctite. I've even heard some say that the old dried loctite that's still on them helps to make them hold. So . . ., I really don't know what's best and hope someone can tell us, but for me personally, I clean them on the wire wheel on my bench grinder before putting them back. As for the air wrench working hard to get them out; that doesn't tell me much without knowing make and model of air wrench. There are half inch impact wrenchs with a maximum of less than 250 ft./lbs. and some with as much as 600 ft./lbs. (quite a range).
Bird
Bird
Thomas
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Steve,
I would think by cleaning the threads you will find out the bolts will start easier,also the old locktite won't gum up the threads.
Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
I would think by cleaning the threads you will find out the bolts will start easier,also the old locktite won't gum up the threads.
Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Thomas
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Bird,
Whats the differents between the blue and red locktite?
My understanding is one stronger than the other after it dries.
I've always use red locktite and found its hard to loosen the bolts.
I guess you will be out tilling today. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Whats the differents between the blue and red locktite?
My understanding is one stronger than the other after it dries.
I've always use red locktite and found its hard to loosen the bolts.
I guess you will be out tilling today. /w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif
Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
Bird
Rest in Peace
Sorry, Thomas, it's been too long ago since I checked into the differences. I think one dries hard and brittle while the other retains some elasticity. And I don't think I've ever used a red one. I've used the blue, but I think all I have right now is white.
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DFB
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There are two that I'm familiar with and use.
The 271-Red Loctite a high strength compound for heavy duty applications. "Extra effort or special tools are required for removal".
The 242-Blue Loctite is a medium strength all purpose compound for easy disassembly with hand tools.
There is a Green Loctite too. Supposed to be used on preassembled fasteners.
DFB
The 271-Red Loctite a high strength compound for heavy duty applications. "Extra effort or special tools are required for removal".
The 242-Blue Loctite is a medium strength all purpose compound for easy disassembly with hand tools.
There is a Green Loctite too. Supposed to be used on preassembled fasteners.
DFB
Thomas
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DFB,
I use the red locktite on just about everything,but now your saying there a green also Bird mention a white locktite. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif
Kinda wonder whats the heat valve for the blue,green,white locktite..120 to 180 degrees??
Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
I use the red locktite on just about everything,but now your saying there a green also Bird mention a white locktite. /w3tcompact/icons/shocked.gif
Kinda wonder whats the heat valve for the blue,green,white locktite..120 to 180 degrees??
Thomas..NH /w3tcompact/icons/wink.gif
DFB
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Thomas,
The red is tough stuff for sure. They even recommend using heat to break it loose./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I usually only use it on fasteners like engine mounting bolts and shock studs. Use the blue on just about everything else.
Check out the web links. Loctite has special high temp formulas.
Permanent Strength
Removable Strength
Retaining compounds
DFB
The red is tough stuff for sure. They even recommend using heat to break it loose./w3tcompact/icons/smile.gif I usually only use it on fasteners like engine mounting bolts and shock studs. Use the blue on just about everything else.
Check out the web links. Loctite has special high temp formulas.
Permanent Strength
Removable Strength
Retaining compounds
DFB
Bird
Rest in Peace
<font color=blue>They even recommend using heat to break it loose</font color=blue>
That's precisely what I have to do to get a lot of air tools apart. I got in a Snap-On air hammer (or chisel to some folks) today that's a real clean looking tool except for the massive claw marks on it where the owner tried his best (unsuccessfully) with two pipe wrenches to get it apart himself./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif And the manuals don't tell you that heat is necessary; you only learn that by talking to service reps./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif And of course the same is true for the other brands as well as Snap-On. I just returned a Chicago Pneumatic ratchet on which the owner destroyed an $11 part with his pipe wrench or channel locks getting it apart. I guess the manuals don't tell you to use heat because then they'd have to tell you that you better remove some heat sensitive parts before you apply that heat or you may have an even bigger mess./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
Bird
That's precisely what I have to do to get a lot of air tools apart. I got in a Snap-On air hammer (or chisel to some folks) today that's a real clean looking tool except for the massive claw marks on it where the owner tried his best (unsuccessfully) with two pipe wrenches to get it apart himself./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif/w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif And the manuals don't tell you that heat is necessary; you only learn that by talking to service reps./w3tcompact/icons/crazy.gif And of course the same is true for the other brands as well as Snap-On. I just returned a Chicago Pneumatic ratchet on which the owner destroyed an $11 part with his pipe wrench or channel locks getting it apart. I guess the manuals don't tell you to use heat because then they'd have to tell you that you better remove some heat sensitive parts before you apply that heat or you may have an even bigger mess./w3tcompact/icons/laugh.gif
Bird
HR_Mutt
Gold Member
The blue is commonly referred to as "service removable" in the machine assembly trade. The fastener may be removed without heat or risk of damage to threads. The red, green, and amber are higher strength. One of them (amber?) will make up .015" in hole diameter difference. This is useful installing bushings and it DOES hold after curing. It will tell on the back of each bottle the strength of that number/color. It is important to start with clean dry surfaces! I agree with the wire brushing if you are reusing a bolt, i also carefully run a tap into the hole and then blow out the residue. Paint thinner works to clean up threads nicely.
