oil question
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The 15w40 is a little heavier, and considered heavier duty. It is use a lot in diesel OTR tractors and diesel autos. It is a little thicker when cold, so it might not flow as good until it warms up. I like to stay with what the owner's manual says for my stuff but 15 40 is used quite a bit in hard working diesel motors so the dealer is probably comfortable with recommending it. If my manual gave me a choice of 10w30 or 15w40 for my diesel, I would go with the 15w40, especially in the hot summer months.
The 15w40 is a little heavier, and considered heavier duty. It is use a lot in diesel OTR tractors and diesel autos. It is a little thicker when cold, so it might not flow as good until it warms up. I like to stay with what the owner's manual says for my stuff but 15 40 is used quite a bit in hard working diesel motors so the dealer is probably comfortable with recommending it. If my manual gave me a choice of 10w30 or 15w40 for my diesel, I would go with the 15w40, especially in the hot summer months.
deminin
Silver Member
Shell Rotella T, in a 15w40 weight is probably used in more diesel engines than all other brands and weights combined. Couple that oil with a WIX filter, and change them both at the required intervals, and you will probably never have any problems with your diesel engine.
deminin
Silver Member
Shell Rotella T, in a 15w40 weight is probably used in more diesel engines than all other brands and weights combined. Couple that oil with a WIX filter, and change them both at the required intervals, and you will probably never have any problems with your diesel engine.
LBrown59
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i use 15w40
LBrown59
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i use 15w40
5030
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Shell Rotella T, in a 15w40 weight is probably used in more diesel engines than all other brands and weights combined. Couple that oil with a WIX filter, and change them both at the required intervals, and you will probably never have any problems with your diesel engine. )</font>
Is that statement rendered from actual figures or what you heard as advertising hype?
I think if you check the stats, Delo will be in the number one spot.
Is that statement rendered from actual figures or what you heard as advertising hype?
I think if you check the stats, Delo will be in the number one spot.
5030
Rest in Peace
- Joined
- Feb 21, 2003
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- 28,967
- Location
- SE Michigan in the middle of nowhere
- Tractor
- Kubota M9000 HDCC3 M9000 HDC
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Shell Rotella T, in a 15w40 weight is probably used in more diesel engines than all other brands and weights combined. Couple that oil with a WIX filter, and change them both at the required intervals, and you will probably never have any problems with your diesel engine. )</font>
Is that statement rendered from actual figures or what you heard as advertising hype?
I think if you check the stats, Delo will be in the number one spot.
Is that statement rendered from actual figures or what you heard as advertising hype?
I think if you check the stats, Delo will be in the number one spot.
I'm using Shell Rotella T 15W40 CI-4Plus in most of my Fleet Rentals. Why? Because it cheaper than most CI-4 oils and readily available coast to coast. These units are powered with DTs466E and 570s, C-9s through C-15s in my class 8 rigs. My MBE 9000 in medium duty diggers and buckets get Rotella T for the same reason. Now, around the farm I using Rotella T in three of my Kubota D782-Es and Delo 400 CI-4 plus in one D902E and my new toy V3800-DI-T-ES. I also use Delo 400 in my personal 5.9 ISB Cummins, why, because I refuse to purchase the preminum Super Blue formulated by Cummins Engineers because of the cost involved to refine it in Ashland, KY. (Valvoline/Marathon). Years ago I would purchase the 55 gallons drums of Super Blue for all my Cummins and did notice a difference in valve train wear as a result of it's use. Soot is your number one enemy in a diesel engine on all valve train components. Without a doubt, Rotella Ts additives suspends soot with good intension to remove it from your engine during an oil change. I'm out to school on oil samples on either oils thus mentioned. Both hold up well under the extreme pressures experencied during high torque demand on dynometers. Personally, without the aid or testing using samples on a spectrograph, I feel the Delo 400 compared to Shells Rotella T, is a better refined product containing less ash. It seems to stay cleaner than Shell's product between oil changes. Just my opinion from an old wrench.
I'm using Shell Rotella T 15W40 CI-4Plus in most of my Fleet Rentals. Why? Because it cheaper than most CI-4 oils and readily available coast to coast. These units are powered with DTs466E and 570s, C-9s through C-15s in my class 8 rigs. My MBE 9000 in medium duty diggers and buckets get Rotella T for the same reason. Now, around the farm I using Rotella T in three of my Kubota D782-Es and Delo 400 CI-4 plus in one D902E and my new toy V3800-DI-T-ES. I also use Delo 400 in my personal 5.9 ISB Cummins, why, because I refuse to purchase the preminum Super Blue formulated by Cummins Engineers because of the cost involved to refine it in Ashland, KY. (Valvoline/Marathon). Years ago I would purchase the 55 gallons drums of Super Blue for all my Cummins and did notice a difference in valve train wear as a result of it's use. Soot is your number one enemy in a diesel engine on all valve train components. Without a doubt, Rotella Ts additives suspends soot with good intension to remove it from your engine during an oil change. I'm out to school on oil samples on either oils thus mentioned. Both hold up well under the extreme pressures experencied during high torque demand on dynometers. Personally, without the aid or testing using samples on a spectrograph, I feel the Delo 400 compared to Shells Rotella T, is a better refined product containing less ash. It seems to stay cleaner than Shell's product between oil changes. Just my opinion from an old wrench.
I've often wondered if the tolerences in the motor may dictate the oil used, I would hate to have excess wear over time because the oil isnt where its suppose to be when it is suppose to be. I dont have alot of confidence in dealers when it comes to smarts. especially with lubricants. The Amsoil heavy duty diesel marine oil has a 12 TBN and a wear scar(test) diameter down at 0.35".
The Delo D 400 has a 11.3 TBN but no mention of how well it protects thru the 4 ball wear test and the size of the wear scar.
So I'm not sure where it ranks.
The Delo D 400 has a 11.3 TBN but no mention of how well it protects thru the 4 ball wear test and the size of the wear scar.
So I'm not sure where it ranks.
I've often wondered if the tolerences in the motor may dictate the oil used, I would hate to have excess wear over time because the oil isnt where its suppose to be when it is suppose to be. I dont have alot of confidence in dealers when it comes to smarts. especially with lubricants. The Amsoil heavy duty diesel marine oil has a 12 TBN and a wear scar(test) diameter down at 0.35".
The Delo D 400 has a 11.3 TBN but no mention of how well it protects thru the 4 ball wear test and the size of the wear scar.
So I'm not sure where it ranks.
The Delo D 400 has a 11.3 TBN but no mention of how well it protects thru the 4 ball wear test and the size of the wear scar.
So I'm not sure where it ranks.
Sully2
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( Shell Rotella T, in a 15w40 weight is probably used in more diesel engines than all other brands and weights combined. Couple that oil with a WIX filter, and change them both at the required intervals, and you will probably never have any problems with your diesel engine. )</font>
Is that statement rendered from actual figures or what you heard as advertising hype?
I think if you check the stats, Delo will be in the number one spot. )</font> </font>
I use Delo myself in my Cummins..and dont know who is "top dog" in sales...but i think its safe to say thet COMBINED Delo and Rotella take the VAST majority of over the road truck sales.
Is that statement rendered from actual figures or what you heard as advertising hype?
I think if you check the stats, Delo will be in the number one spot. )</font> </font>
I use Delo myself in my Cummins..and dont know who is "top dog" in sales...but i think its safe to say thet COMBINED Delo and Rotella take the VAST majority of over the road truck sales.
Sully2
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( </font><font color="blueclass=small">( Shell Rotella T, in a 15w40 weight is probably used in more diesel engines than all other brands and weights combined. Couple that oil with a WIX filter, and change them both at the required intervals, and you will probably never have any problems with your diesel engine. )</font>
Is that statement rendered from actual figures or what you heard as advertising hype?
I think if you check the stats, Delo will be in the number one spot. )</font> </font>
I use Delo myself in my Cummins..and dont know who is "top dog" in sales...but i think its safe to say thet COMBINED Delo and Rotella take the VAST majority of over the road truck sales.
Is that statement rendered from actual figures or what you heard as advertising hype?
I think if you check the stats, Delo will be in the number one spot. )</font> </font>
I use Delo myself in my Cummins..and dont know who is "top dog" in sales...but i think its safe to say thet COMBINED Delo and Rotella take the VAST majority of over the road truck sales.
DiezNutz
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've often wondered if the tolerences in the motor may dictate the oil used, I would hate to have excess wear over time because the oil isnt where its suppose to be when it is suppose to be. )</font>
Yes tolerances (indirectly in terms of bearing pressures), rpm range, operating oil temp range - to name some key players - determine proper viscosity. Just as important, in terms of oil chemistry and additives, is the API service rating (that "donut" on the bottle), since only "C-" category oils are formulated appropriately for diesels, and nowadays typically CH-4 and CI-4. Doesn't get any better than CI-4 Plus, at least not until CJ-4 hits the shelves.
Sometimes there's specific tests and criteria beyond that to be satisfied (or so some manufacturers say to make you buy "their" oil).
Getting back to the weight, I usually take the tact of sticking with the manufacturer's recommendation (let's say 10W30) at the start. After I've racked up alot of miles (or hours) and things are worn in real good, I bump up the weight a notch (e.g., 15W40). Basic idea, try to compensate for bearing wear and bigger clearances with heavier weights to ideally maintain the same oil pressures as new. I'd be a little nervous about dumping a heavier weight in a new(-ish) engine, but if it's an engine where I'm changing the oil often enough, I often do it seasonally like some have said. That's just me.
Yes tolerances (indirectly in terms of bearing pressures), rpm range, operating oil temp range - to name some key players - determine proper viscosity. Just as important, in terms of oil chemistry and additives, is the API service rating (that "donut" on the bottle), since only "C-" category oils are formulated appropriately for diesels, and nowadays typically CH-4 and CI-4. Doesn't get any better than CI-4 Plus, at least not until CJ-4 hits the shelves.
Sometimes there's specific tests and criteria beyond that to be satisfied (or so some manufacturers say to make you buy "their" oil).
Getting back to the weight, I usually take the tact of sticking with the manufacturer's recommendation (let's say 10W30) at the start. After I've racked up alot of miles (or hours) and things are worn in real good, I bump up the weight a notch (e.g., 15W40). Basic idea, try to compensate for bearing wear and bigger clearances with heavier weights to ideally maintain the same oil pressures as new. I'd be a little nervous about dumping a heavier weight in a new(-ish) engine, but if it's an engine where I'm changing the oil often enough, I often do it seasonally like some have said. That's just me.
DiezNutz
Veteran Member
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I've often wondered if the tolerences in the motor may dictate the oil used, I would hate to have excess wear over time because the oil isnt where its suppose to be when it is suppose to be. )</font>
Yes tolerances (indirectly in terms of bearing pressures), rpm range, operating oil temp range - to name some key players - determine proper viscosity. Just as important, in terms of oil chemistry and additives, is the API service rating (that "donut" on the bottle), since only "C-" category oils are formulated appropriately for diesels, and nowadays typically CH-4 and CI-4. Doesn't get any better than CI-4 Plus, at least not until CJ-4 hits the shelves.
Sometimes there's specific tests and criteria beyond that to be satisfied (or so some manufacturers say to make you buy "their" oil).
Getting back to the weight, I usually take the tact of sticking with the manufacturer's recommendation (let's say 10W30) at the start. After I've racked up alot of miles (or hours) and things are worn in real good, I bump up the weight a notch (e.g., 15W40). Basic idea, try to compensate for bearing wear and bigger clearances with heavier weights to ideally maintain the same oil pressures as new. I'd be a little nervous about dumping a heavier weight in a new(-ish) engine, but if it's an engine where I'm changing the oil often enough, I often do it seasonally like some have said. That's just me.
Yes tolerances (indirectly in terms of bearing pressures), rpm range, operating oil temp range - to name some key players - determine proper viscosity. Just as important, in terms of oil chemistry and additives, is the API service rating (that "donut" on the bottle), since only "C-" category oils are formulated appropriately for diesels, and nowadays typically CH-4 and CI-4. Doesn't get any better than CI-4 Plus, at least not until CJ-4 hits the shelves.
Sometimes there's specific tests and criteria beyond that to be satisfied (or so some manufacturers say to make you buy "their" oil).
Getting back to the weight, I usually take the tact of sticking with the manufacturer's recommendation (let's say 10W30) at the start. After I've racked up alot of miles (or hours) and things are worn in real good, I bump up the weight a notch (e.g., 15W40). Basic idea, try to compensate for bearing wear and bigger clearances with heavier weights to ideally maintain the same oil pressures as new. I'd be a little nervous about dumping a heavier weight in a new(-ish) engine, but if it's an engine where I'm changing the oil often enough, I often do it seasonally like some have said. That's just me.
