oil for air compressor

   / oil for air compressor #1  

nancyk

Silver Member
Joined
Jul 5, 2017
Messages
157
Location
east Tennessee
Tractor
Deere 5055e 2015, Ferris IS2000z 2007
I have a tall(50") air compressor, Farmhand Cast Iron, Campbell Hausfeld, that keeps kicking on. Had a neighbor stop by, he said it was probably a loose end connection, tho I doubted that. I noticed some clear fluid coming out the top of the compressor, the neighbor then checked the oil level and said it was low and I should add some. That will not remedy the problem of losing air but I need to get some oil. I do know it should be non-detergent and 30 weight. Should I just go to an auto parts store and get it, and does the container need to say Compressor Oil?
 
   / oil for air compressor #2  
I use Shell Rarus compressor oil in my expensive Quincy 10 horse QP but any non detergent 30 weight auto store oil will do. Sounds to me like you have a condensation issue, you need to drain the receiver (tank) regularly, like daily if you run it.
 
   / oil for air compressor
  • Thread Starter
#3  
It gets used rarely. Mainly to refill a small portable tank or for blowing off the zeroturn once or twice a year. Right now the breakers to it are turned off. How is the receiver drained?
 
   / oil for air compressor #4  
usually a valve under the tank.
 
   / oil for air compressor
  • Thread Starter
#5  
I see a valve under the tank, first picture. Not sure if I want to fiddle with that. Second and third pictures show the tank, the fluid(appears to be a clear oil-like substance) seems to be coming from the black part on the top right of the tank in the third picture.
 

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   / oil for air compressor #6  
I think I got some compressor oil years ago at Tractor Supply; it will be labeled as such.
 
   / oil for air compressor #7  
Yeah. That first pic is the drain valve. Turn the tee handle to drain & re-tighten when the water/moisture stops. Lefty-loosy/righty-tighty. If you're ambitious, replace it with an elbow/ball valve/extension to make future draining easy & you can redirect the moisture with a hose. You seem to have an oil leak at the connection between the compressor & the fill pipe that feeds the tank (might seep air there as well). Let all the air out & turn it off before opening that connection, then see what you need to replace to seal it up. Long as you're there, change the oil/refill & you should be good to go. That fill pipe will get hot when the compressor is running, so don't burn yourself. Shut her down/let her cool off if there is a doubt.

less than 30 seconds on the drain valve should take the moisture out of the tank, unless you've never done it before.
 
Last edited:
   / oil for air compressor
  • Thread Starter
#8  
So, just to clarify, should I make sure all the air is out of the tank before I open the drain valve? It seems to be holding at 80 lbs, with the breaker turned off. As to changing the oil, I will not be doing that.
 
   / oil for air compressor #9  
I was taught to always drain the air from the tank so that moisture doesn’t build up when not in use, so that’s what I’ve always done. I just have a little 12 gal/125 psi Craftsman though.
 
   / oil for air compressor #10  
You can open the drain valve with air pressure, just don't keep your hand under it in case any rust gets shot out under pressure. (Need some pressure to push the water out) Be ready for a loud whooshing sound when it opens. If you're going to try & tackle the fill pipe, once you open the drain, leave it open until all the air is gone.
 

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