oil choice

   / oil choice #1  

ice

Member
Joined
Jul 15, 2006
Messages
35
Location
se usa
I would like some opinions about oil choices please.
Some years back a shop owner that has many years of experience working on small engines told me that straight 30wt HD oil should be used in small air cooled engines. He said it was not a good idea to use multi-viscosity oil such as 10w-30 and 10w-40 oils in air cooled engines.
I have a new mower with a 22hp Kawasaki engine and i`m debating about what type of oil to use. I do plan to use dino oil.
What would be your choice of oil?.
Any advice will be appreciated.
 
   / oil choice #2  
Akkk my Ford is better than your Chevy. I would just use what the maual says.
 
   / oil choice #3  
Ah oil, an interesting and remarkably detailed subject. The science geek in me loves it ;)

As always, read the owners manual. You can infer a lot by what its says. No need to use brand specific oil, but if it says use 10W30, use whatever top quality oil you're comfortable with. Do not buy cheap oil! You get what you pay for. The marginal cost of top quality oil in a tractor is nothing. That's why I use synthetics for all my outdoor power products. If you want regular oil, get name brand stuff, and read the label for the specs. You owners manual should say SM/CF or something like that. Don't use any oil below the spec they say.

Now, 10W30 means in cold temps it behaves like a 10W, ie flows easily, but in hot temps it behaves like a straight 30W, ie doesn't thin out when hot so it protects better. This opposite to physics. Cold molasses is thick, hot molasses is thin. How does the oil do the opposite of how God made the earth? Science. Chemical additives called VI additives or viscosity improvers. When hot, they molecules change shape making the oil behave as if its thicker than it really is. Works great, for a while. Then the VI additives break down, and the oil slowly becomes a 10W25, 10W20, 10W15, etc. The light chain actual-oil molecules also "boil off" leaving you with thicker oil outside what the VI additives do. That's why old OPE spec'd straight 30W, if used only in summertime. Less sludge in the crankcase, better lubricity as more VI means less lubricating oil for the same volume. Petroleum oil is a soup, a mixture of many kinds of straight chain molecules of variable length. It's a carbon backbone with variable type of hydrogen atoms attached, therefore called hydrocarbons. Aliphatic hydrocarbons mean straight chains, aromatic hydrocarbons means in a circular-type structure, like benzene. Long chain hydrocarbons are wax, short chain hydrocarbons are light machine oil. That's why at -35 cars won't start, because the wax in oil solidifies, and won't flow. When hot, short chain hydrocarbons "boil off," meaning oil is consumed. Ever notice on a long hot summer trip the car engine uses more oil than usual? That's why.

Downside to straight 30W is longer time to get the oil flowing when it's cold. Therefore, more metal to metal wear before oil pressure comes up. Not a problem if only used hot, big problem if used in northern winters.

So use whatever you like, just change regular petroleum oil right on schedule. For the small cost, changing sooner is also reasonable.
 
   / oil choice #4  
It's likely that your Kawa engine will have hydraulic lifters like a car. My Kohler 20hp on the garden tractor does and it calls for 10-30 weight, due to the hydraulic nature of the lifters. Suggest you follow the owners manual. Air cooled engines today have much closer tolerances than those of 20 or so years ago when 30W was the prescription. bobg in va
 
   / oil choice
  • Thread Starter
#5  
Thanks guys for giving me some ideas.
I do have a basic understanding of motor oils, additives, etc.
On motorcycle websites I frequent, we have hashed over the dino vs synthetic vs cost and so forth many times.
I`m leaning toward a quality multi-viscosity oil mainly because of cold start ups. I`ve read many times that considerable wear is incured during a cold start. So i`m thinking multi-viscosity oil will pump up quicker and hopefully reduce engine wear.
 
   / oil choice #6  
ice said:
...
I have a new mower with a 22hp Kawasaki engine and i`m debating about what type of oil to use. I do plan to use dino oil.
What would be your choice of oil?.
Any advice will be appreciated.

What the owners manual for your NEW mower say to use???
 
   / oil choice #7  
ice said:
On motorcycle websites I frequent, we have hashed over the dino vs synthetic vs cost and so forth many times.

They do that on tractor sites too :D .
 
   / oil choice #8  
I wasn't sure how much of the tech side of oil you knew, sorry if I gave you overly simplified info. Since your engine is new, use a name brand 10W30 if that's what the engine manual says. Valvoline, Pensoil, Mobil 1, Castrol, etc. Use it this summer. Change it at 5 hours or whenever the first change should be, run the rest of this year with dino oil, then in the fall change it to PAO synthetic. Mobil 1, Royal Purple, Amsoil, Redline. Pick whichever you like. Still change it at the regular interval, and your engine should last longer than the frame. Yes, I love synthetic, real PAO synthetics, not fake Group III pseudosysnthetics.

(OK, I know, I know, I shouldn't have started it.......:)
 
   / oil choice #9  
In the late 80's I talked to a factory rep for one of the major small engine manufacturers, Tecumsa I think. After repeated questioning he continued to recommend dino single weight oils over everthing else including synthetic.

He said he had seen tests where dino oils in small engines ran cooler than synthetics.

I know, I know...

Mike
 
   / oil choice #10  
My manual recommends 10w40 for my Kawasaki. I use that or 10w30 when I change the oil. Most modern engines use a multi viscosity oil to get oil flow during cold start up or cold weather, and still have hot temp protection.
 

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