bitseeker
Silver Member
We are upgrading from a BX23 to an L5240. The tractor will be used on very steep terrain, and I want maximum stability. All the tires are filled with Rim Guard.
I see that I can gain another 4" of rear tire-width and the stability that goes with that by moving the rim loops outside the wheel disk. I set out to do that, and ran into a couple of issues that I'd like advice and ideas on how to do the change.
The first issue is the tire weight. With the Rim Guard, each wheel and tire weighs approximately 600 pounds. Being both old and weak, I want to avoid having that weight get away from me. I used the Backhoe stabilizers to just have the tires clear the pavement. I left the two studs in the hub with the nuts loose and the same for two of the bolts through the loops and disk. I planned to pop the disk out of the rim and then to remove all the loop bolts and then rotate the hub and attached disk 30-degrees to clear the loops and jocky the tire and rim out a couple of inches, rotate the disk back, and reinstall the bolts.
The second issue is getting the disk and rim separate. When I tried to pry the disk out of the tapered edges of the loops, I could not get it to budge. It seems to be wedged in there, which I am sure is good for centering the assembly. Is there a technique to separate the rim and disk, or is it usually done with the wheel fully removed and a hammer from the back side? I do not want to do that because of the difficulty of getting the 600 pound assembly lined back up.
The third issue is when the loops are outside the disk like I want them to be, it seems like the carrage-bolt heads whll have to be on the outside and the the nuts inside. Is that correct? If correct, how do you torque the nuts when they are buried inside the wheel like that?
Somewhere I have the torque specs for those wheel bolts, which I recall as 160 foot-pounds, and that's what I have re-torqued them to. I can't find those specs, and would like confirmation if you know what they should be.
Thanks for any help and related tips you might be willing to offer.
I see that I can gain another 4" of rear tire-width and the stability that goes with that by moving the rim loops outside the wheel disk. I set out to do that, and ran into a couple of issues that I'd like advice and ideas on how to do the change.
The first issue is the tire weight. With the Rim Guard, each wheel and tire weighs approximately 600 pounds. Being both old and weak, I want to avoid having that weight get away from me. I used the Backhoe stabilizers to just have the tires clear the pavement. I left the two studs in the hub with the nuts loose and the same for two of the bolts through the loops and disk. I planned to pop the disk out of the rim and then to remove all the loop bolts and then rotate the hub and attached disk 30-degrees to clear the loops and jocky the tire and rim out a couple of inches, rotate the disk back, and reinstall the bolts.
The second issue is getting the disk and rim separate. When I tried to pry the disk out of the tapered edges of the loops, I could not get it to budge. It seems to be wedged in there, which I am sure is good for centering the assembly. Is there a technique to separate the rim and disk, or is it usually done with the wheel fully removed and a hammer from the back side? I do not want to do that because of the difficulty of getting the 600 pound assembly lined back up.
The third issue is when the loops are outside the disk like I want them to be, it seems like the carrage-bolt heads whll have to be on the outside and the the nuts inside. Is that correct? If correct, how do you torque the nuts when they are buried inside the wheel like that?
Somewhere I have the torque specs for those wheel bolts, which I recall as 160 foot-pounds, and that's what I have re-torqued them to. I can't find those specs, and would like confirmation if you know what they should be.
Thanks for any help and related tips you might be willing to offer.