NX4510HST completed 50 hr service

[CMV]

Just some general info and notes for others. Mine is USA spec, open station NX4510 HST, but I think the whole NX family uses same parts & capacities...

Replaced 5 filters:

Wix WL10113 - $39 + $7 freight since they had to order - O'Reilly auto parts. Originally ordered from NAPA online, but after 2 weeks no shipment, no order update so cancelled online order and stopped by O'Reilly since they carry Wix as well. Uncommon and was in stock at their warehouse in Nashville, TN. Took 48 hrs to arrive at local store. Not sure why they charge extra $7 freight since you'd assume other parts have to get trucked from distribution center to store anyway....

Wix 51324 - $9. O'Reilly auto parts. Same - originally ordered online from Napa and cancelled. Was in stock at local O'Reilly.

Baldwin BT9464 - $27. ebay seller "truck-trailer-direct"

Donaldson P827653 - $19. ebay seller "crossfilters"

Kioti/Daedong F6800-16411 - $66. ebay seller "greenestractorcompanyllcparts"

Replaced engine, transmission, and front axle fluids

Rotella T5 15W-40 - $18/gal. TSC

Kubota SUDT-2 - $104/5 gal. local Kubota dealer

Valvoline 80W-90 - $25/gal. O'reilly auto parts

Otherwise just grease and common shop tools, rags, funnels, catch pan, etc. were needed. Only "special tool" needed was a "vise grip style" oil filter wrench. They must have an 800lb gorilla at the factory tightening down the big hydraulic filter, but I couldn't budge it with a typical filter wrench and it has a round smooth end so a filter socket like you'd possibly use on your vehicle doesn't work.

Just the owner's manual was a good enough reference, but leaves much to be desired. The drain plug bolts all had red heads so were easy to spot and the manual pointed out a general location to find them. Some like the lower drains for the front axle oil weren't called out in manual, but easy enough to see.

I realize capacities vs actual amounts of fluid will have variation due to filters, cylinders, lines, and pans not 100% draining out, etc. But this is what I found refilling everything to "full" marks, running for a while, then rechecking and adjusting to "full" if needed.

Engine oil - 1.4 gal capacity (5.6 qt) - needed 7 quarts
Hydraulic oil - 14.5 gal capacity - needed slightly under 10 gal
Front axle oil - 1.9 gal capacity (7.6 qt) - needed 6 quarts

For 50 hr service, I would not recommend replacing air filter as I did. Factory one was pretty clean and just blowing out with compressed air made it look almost new. Have a spare now or one less thing to buy next time, but wasn't needed. 50 hr service doesn't call for replacing hydraulic fluid, but wanted to for peace of mind. After switching from the Chevron (forget specific flavor, but Chevron brand) dealer used to Kubota SUDT-2 ..... I noticed nothing. In my last machine I noticed a decrease in HST whine after switching. But I didn't have whine in this machine to begin with. So sounds the same. Loader seems to lift the same, move at same speed, move with same smoothness. Driving, braking, everything - no perceptible difference in any way with the fluid swap. I have peace of mind knowing I put a good fluid in it and future service intervals will be far enough apart for me that I really don't care about spending a little more to continue using it. Fuel filter also isn't called out for replacement until 200 hr service. Figured "might as well..." but in hindsight was waste of $. Got no water out of it and as large as it is, no reason it couldn't have gone 200 hrs and been just fine.

Other than cleaning and greasing, everything else for the 50 hr service was mostly an inspection. Belts, brakes, fasteners, etc - nothing needed adjusting, just checked. I did find where the hydraulic lines run under the floor pan (right by the HST pedals) they were rubbing on the metal lip and wearing so fixed that. I read that here and checked right after I got it and they weren't rubbing, so must move a little with use to where they rub in that spot. Was glad to see all the loader frame and wheel lug bolts were nice and snug. Found several lug nuts - esp at front tires - loose enough to decompress the lock washer around 10 hrs and checked torques on everything then. Since that time everything stayed tight. In all, probably took about 4.5 hrs which included time to give it a good cleaning with pressure washer prior to starting any work (low pressure electric one, wide setting).

Otherwise installed some LED light pods and a mount high on the ROPS for those but will have to rewire - either have a short or 3 pods are too much for the 5amp fuse/existing work light pigtail. Didn't realize it blew fuse until after I got it back out to my remote property and don't feel like messing with it out there, so project for another time. Relocated the SMV sign and bolted a 50cal ammo can behind seat for a storage box. Reworked the hanger for the top link to accommodate the fatter hydraulic toplink so it holds it up without scratching it all up now.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Just some general info and notes for others. Mine is USA spec, open station NX4510 HST, but I think the whole NX family uses same parts & capacities...

Replaced 5 filters:

Wix WL10113 - $39 + $7 freight since they had to order - O'Reilly auto parts. Originally ordered from NAPA online, but after 2 weeks no shipment, no order update so cancelled online order and stopped by O'Reilly since they carry Wix as well. Uncommon and was in stock at their warehouse in Nashville, TN. Took 48 hrs to arrive at local store. Not sure why they charge extra $7 freight since you'd assume other parts have to get trucked from distribution center to store anyway....

Wix 51324 - $9. O'Reilly auto parts. Same - originally ordered online from Napa and cancelled. Was in stock at local O'Reilly.

Baldwin BT9464 - $27. ebay seller "truck-trailer-direct"

Donaldson P827653 - $19. ebay seller "crossfilters"

Kioti/Daedong F6800-16411 - $66. ebay seller "greenestractorcompanyllcparts"

Replaced engine, transmission, and front axle fluids

Rotella T5 15W-40 - $18/gal. TSC

Kubota SUDT-2 - $104/5 gal. local Kubota dealer

Valvoline 80W-90 - $25/gal. O'reilly auto parts

Otherwise just grease and common shop tools, rags, funnels, catch pan, etc. were needed. Only "special tool" needed was a "vise grip style" oil filter wrench. They must have an 800lb gorilla at the factory tightening down the big hydraulic filter, but I couldn't budge it with a typical filter wrench and it has a round smooth end so a filter socket like you'd possibly use on your vehicle doesn't work.

Just the owner's manual was a good enough reference, but leaves much to be desired. The drain plug bolts all had red heads so were easy to spot and the manual pointed out a general location to find them. Some like the lower drains for the front axle oil weren't called out in manual, but easy enough to see.

I realize capacities vs actual amounts of fluid will have variation due to filters, cylinders, lines, and pans not 100% draining out, etc. But this is what I found refilling everything to "full" marks, running for a while, then rechecking and adjusting to "full" if needed.

Engine oil - 1.4 gal capacity (5.6 qt) - needed 7 quarts
Hydraulic oil - 14.5 gal capacity - needed slightly under 10 gal
Front axle oil - 1.9 gal capacity (7.6 qt) - needed 6 quarts

For 50 hr service, I would not recommend replacing air filter as I did. Factory one was pretty clean and just blowing out with compressed air made it look almost new. Have a spare now or one less thing to buy next time, but wasn't needed. 50 hr service doesn't call for replacing hydraulic fluid, but wanted to for peace of mind. After switching from the Chevron (forget specific flavor, but Chevron brand) dealer used to Kubota SUDT-2 ..... I noticed nothing. In my last machine I noticed a decrease in HST whine after switching. But I didn't have whine in this machine to begin with. So sounds the same. Loader seems to lift the same, move at same speed, move with same smoothness. Driving, braking, everything - no perceptible difference in any way with the fluid swap. I have peace of mind knowing I put a good fluid in it and future service intervals will be far enough apart for me that I really don't care about spending a little more to continue using it. Fuel filter also isn't called out for replacement until 200 hr service. Figured "might as well..." but in hindsight was waste of $. Got no water out of it and as large as it is, no reason it couldn't have gone 200 hrs and been just fine.

Other than cleaning and greasing, everything else for the 50 hr service was mostly an inspection. Belts, brakes, fasteners, etc - nothing needed adjusting, just checked. I did find where the hydraulic lines run under the floor pan (right by the HST pedals) they were rubbing on the metal lip and wearing so fixed that. I read that here and checked right after I got it and they weren't rubbing, so must move a little with use to where they rub in that spot. Was glad to see all the loader frame and wheel lug bolts were nice and snug. Found several lug nuts - esp at front tires - loose enough to decompress the lock washer around 10 hrs and checked torques on everything then. Since that time everything stayed tight. In all, probably took about 4.5 hrs which included time to give it a good cleaning with pressure washer prior to starting any work (low pressure electric one, wide setting).

Otherwise installed some LED light pods and a mount high on the ROPS for those but will have to rewire - either have a short or 3 pods are too much for the 5amp fuse/existing work light pigtail. Didn't realize it blew fuse until after I got it back out to my remote property and don't feel like messing with it out there, so project for another time. Relocated the SMV sign and bolted a 50cal ammo can behind seat for a storage box. Reworked the hanger for the top link to accommodate the fatter hydraulic toplink so it holds it up without scratching it all up now.

Good write up.
The bold for the filter numbers are because I have no idea what the filter descriptions are. HST, HYD., Oil, etc
Also been looking at the SMV sign and mounting a tool box back there.
Have a picture of how that came out?

Thanks.
BTW check the front axle oil level. Did learn when I did mine that some air was trapped and took a few hours to purge out and then topped off with .5 to .75 additional qt.
Regards...

on edit: How do you like the performance of the SUDT2 Hyd. oil?
I'll have to ask my local bota dealer what they charge for theirs. That's a 200 dollah hit for the oil but I'm nearing 150 hours now and have had enough of the OEM fluid.
Do you find it a pain to get HST into gear before/after oil change?
Presently I have to gently prod a pedal to get gear to engage into M range. Even after warmed up and running. The CK4010 also did that until I replaced with Amsoil.
Course the NX ain't gonnah get the Amsoil not a 400 bills!:shocked:

 

[Threepoint]

CMV, nice write-up. Should be helpful to other NX owners approaching 50 hs. When I did my 50 hr service about four years ago, I just asked the dealer to ship me all the necessary Kioti filters. It was just easier and safer that way, since I didn't have reliable cross-reference data.

 

[CMV]

Wix WL10113 - big hyd filter
Wix 51324 - engine oil filter
Baldwin BT9464 - small hyd filter
Donaldson P827653 - air filter
Kioti/Daedong F6800-16411 - fuel filter

Can take a pic. Real easy though.....the 8 bolts that hold the ROPS framework just to the left of the SMV mounting bracket - I loosened all those, stuck the stub of the SMV sign (no mount - just the sign) in between the ROPS frame and that L-bracket, then torqued the bolts back down. Pinches it in there real good. Then you pretty much have that whole bar behind the seat to drill for toolbox mounting. I just reused the bolts that held the SMV sign since they were right there and no longer needed. But plenty of room for something larger than a 50cal can.

I notice NOTHING different changing from the Chevron fluid dealer filled it with vs the SUDT-2 fluid. Maybe cold weather performance but I have no reference point to compare since I got the machine after winter. Used it in my LS when i serviced it and noticed a decrease in HST whine. In the Kioti, no changes I can tell at all from it. Pretty much psychological upgrade - I "feel better" about using it - but probably no difference in performance or longevity vs any other good name brand fluid...

 

[YLee Kioti]

@CMV pretty awesome thanks for the reply and the info very well done. :thumbsup:

now to take a look at the SMV!
Projects never stop lol....

Kindest regards...

 

[NYCheese]

Good write up.
Do you find it a pain to get HST into gear before/after oil change?
Presently I have to gently prod a pedal to get gear to engage into M range. Even after warmed up and running. The CK4010 also did that until I replaced with Amsoil.
Course the NX ain't gonnah get the Amsoil not a 400 bills!:shocked:

I just bought a ck3510se hst, and I've noticed the same thing, happens mostly so far in going into low gear, but mid has done it a couple times too. I just chalked it up to being a brand new machine...sounds like maybe a better quality oil would help?

 

[Threepoint]

CMV, nice write-up. Should be helpful to other NX owners approaching 50 hs. When I did my 50 hr service about four years ago, I just asked the dealer to ship me all the necessary Kioti filters. It was just easier and safer that way, since I didn't have reliable cross-reference data.

CMV, a further thought on the OEM vs the Wix filters. Did you happen to notice how the can sizes of the Wix compared to the Kioti OEM? I just watched an interesting YouTube video mentioned in another current TBN thread. A Messicks tech cut apart a Kubota OEM filter and three models of Wix oil filters that crossed to it. Surprising how much less filter media was in the Wix. I have no idea how the Kioti filters might compare to the Wix in terms of actual filtering capability. The Kubota filter looks substantially more capable.
Napa Filters VS Kubota Filters - Do you need OEM filters? - YouTube

 

[CMV]

The Wix (and other brands) were identical in appearance to the OEM ones. Of course the fuel filter was OEM - I couldn't find anything aftermarket that had the place for the water sensor to plug in. Same for the air filter - the air cleaner assembly as a whole comes from Donaldson. The small Baldwin hyd filter other than being a red/orange color appeared identical to the OEM one and I wouldn't be surprised to learn that Baldwin is the OEM for Daedong on it. Even the scalloped ridge was identical comparing them. As for the WIX filters - internally might be different - but same shape, size, outward appearance as what came from factory. I wouldn't cross a Fram filter, but Wix have always been good quality filters. Whether or not they're same/better/worse than OEM, that would take some $ to buy new filters to chop up and see the guts to know. But I'm sure they're "good enough" worst case.

I watched that video when it came out too - I like Neal's videos. But what I didn't notice in it was what was the OEM filter and what NAPA did he choose to cross reference? Not saying they weren't the correct direct cross p/n, but often you will find several options. Without being able to verify with the p/n of the Kubota filter, was the 1365 the correct or "best" NAPA filter to compare? Could be there is a more substantial NAPA/WIX that is a more appropriate replacement and the 1365 just happens to fit and have similar overall size? Not implying Neal is being shady or deceptive - just that there is no way to verify Kubota p/n xxxxx should be crossed with 1365. Not outside the realm of possibility there is a Wix or Napa Gold that crosses to that same Kubota filter and is much more substantial internally.

Anyway, Wix meets my personal comfort level for product quality. They don't make junk or low quality products so I'm comfortable in the choice.

 

[Threepoint]

CMV, thanks. Good input.

 

[YLee Kioti]

Hey CMV:
Have you ever thought about asking Donaldson if they have any Hyd./HST filters that may X-reference?
We have a Cat. factory here in Victoria and lots of large heavy equipment suppliers and Hyd. shops.

When the time comes in about 50 hours (for the 200 mark) I may take a drive over there with all my numbers and ones you provided and do some inquiring.

Some time later in the year I'll keep yah updates. Cause that HST filter is pretty steep. I was quoted about 95? or so.

 

[CMV]

The Wix and Baldwin together are a good amount less expensive than the Daedong hydraulic filter alone. As large as it is, even if it is somehow inferior to the OEM, it's still going to do a lot... My fluid looked new coming out (probably why they don't call for a change @ 50 hrs in the first place) and there was very little on the plug magnet. Very fine - same as grinding swarf - and a little less than a pea sized amount. Wouldn't be surprised if all that was from trying to find M range

SO here's some pics. The filters themselves and how I label them with a cheapie Brother PTouch label maker, the LED light pods I put up that are either way too much for the 5A fuse and little worklight wires in rear or I have a short blowing that fuse (project for some other time....), how I did the SMV sign, and how much space is left over with a 50cal can behind seat, and my solution for the shoulder bolts w/ nylocks to fold the ROPS.

 

[YLee Kioti]

nice....:thumbsup:

glad to see others as OCD when it comes to filters marked with hours and dates.:cool2:

 

[countrybumpkin]

I just use a sharpie permanent pen, on a white one I use a black pen and on dark filters I use the a silver one.

 

[CMV]

I used the metallic silver sharpie on last one - i keep handfuls of those around since they are good for marking just about any background color

But the sharpie wore off pretty quick on some of them. Maybe didn't wipe them well enough first or think to write on a less exposed area? Who knows.....so tried the P-touch labels this time which should stay on and legible for the life of the filters. If not, no big deal, not like I'll forget I did the service

Office Depot/Office Max/Staples - one of those places had a good sale on the smaller P-touch label makers not long ago. Under $20. We have a local discount store that sells all sorts of oddball stuff. I think it comes from insurance claims or something, but they have a wide variety and ever-changing inventory of real cheap stuff. I find the tapes for the P-Touch there for just a few bucks. So that's a cheap way for me to mark things and it writes much more neatly than I do ....

 

[countrybumpkin]

I’m going to guess they weren’t clean when you wrote on them, I’ve not had any issues with them coming off even when washing or using cleaning chemicals on the tractor. Only issue is if you get thinner or reducer something of that nature on the filter then it will try and wipe off. The labels should do a fine job of staying on though I would think, I have one but it’s a desk top model so I never have it out in the shop.

 

[joefromga]

Use a paint pen. The ones that have the mixing ball inside. Like junk yards use to write on parts. Oil based and sticks to everything that sharpies won't.

Milwaukee makes a good one.

 

[wiskioti]

Just some general info and notes for others. Mine is USA spec, open station NX4510 HST, but I think the whole NX family uses same parts & capacities...

Replaced 5 filters:

Wix WL10113 - $39 + $7 freight since they had to order - O'Reilly auto parts. Originally ordered from NAPA online, but after 2 weeks no shipment, no order update so cancelled online order and stopped by O'Reilly since they carry Wix as well. Uncommon and was in stock at their warehouse in Nashville, TN. Took 48 hrs to arrive at local store. Not sure why they charge extra $7 freight since you'd assume other parts have to get trucked from distribution center to store anyway....

Wix 51324 - $9. O'Reilly auto parts. Same - originally ordered online from Napa and cancelled. Was in stock at local O'Reilly.

Baldwin BT9464 - $27. ebay seller "truck-trailer-direct"

Donaldson P827653 - $19. ebay seller "crossfilters"

Kioti/Daedong F6800-16411 - $66. ebay seller "greenestractorcompanyllcparts"

Replaced engine, transmission, and front axle fluids

Rotella T5 15W-40 - $18/gal. TSC

Kubota SUDT-2 - $104/5 gal. local Kubota dealer

Valvoline 80W-90 - $25/gal. O'reilly auto parts

Otherwise just grease and common shop tools, rags, funnels, catch pan, etc. were needed. Only "special tool" needed was a "vise grip style" oil filter wrench. They must have an 800lb gorilla at the factory tightening down the big hydraulic filter, but I couldn't budge it with a typical filter wrench and it has a round smooth end so a filter socket like you'd possibly use on your vehicle doesn't work.

Just the owner's manual was a good enough reference, but leaves much to be desired. The drain plug bolts all had red heads so were easy to spot and the manual pointed out a general location to find them. Some like the lower drains for the front axle oil weren't called out in manual, but easy enough to see.

I realize capacities vs actual amounts of fluid will have variation due to filters, cylinders, lines, and pans not 100% draining out, etc. But this is what I found refilling everything to "full" marks, running for a while, then rechecking and adjusting to "full" if needed.

Engine oil - 1.4 gal capacity (5.6 qt) - needed 7 quarts
Hydraulic oil - 14.5 gal capacity - needed slightly under 10 gal
Front axle oil - 1.9 gal capacity (7.6 qt) - needed 6 quarts

For 50 hr service, I would not recommend replacing air filter as I did. Factory one was pretty clean and just blowing out with compressed air made it look almost new. Have a spare now or one less thing to buy next time, but wasn't needed. 50 hr service doesn't call for replacing hydraulic fluid, but wanted to for peace of mind. After switching from the Chevron (forget specific flavor, but Chevron brand) dealer used to Kubota SUDT-2 ..... I noticed nothing. In my last machine I noticed a decrease in HST whine after switching. But I didn't have whine in this machine to begin with. So sounds the same. Loader seems to lift the same, move at same speed, move with same smoothness. Driving, braking, everything - no perceptible difference in any way with the fluid swap. I have peace of mind knowing I put a good fluid in it and future service intervals will be far enough apart for me that I really don't care about spending a little more to continue using it. Fuel filter also isn't called out for replacement until 200 hr service. Figured "might as well..." but in hindsight was waste of $. Got no water out of it and as large as it is, no reason it couldn't have gone 200 hrs and been just fine.

Other than cleaning and greasing, everything else for the 50 hr service was mostly an inspection. Belts, brakes, fasteners, etc - nothing needed adjusting, just checked. I did find where the hydraulic lines run under the floor pan (right by the HST pedals) they were rubbing on the metal lip and wearing so fixed that. I read that here and checked right after I got it and they weren't rubbing, so must move a little with use to where they rub in that spot. Was glad to see all the loader frame and wheel lug bolts were nice and snug. Found several lug nuts - esp at front tires - loose enough to decompress the lock washer around 10 hrs and checked torques on everything then. Since that time everything stayed tight. In all, probably took about 4.5 hrs which included time to give it a good cleaning with pressure washer prior to starting any work (low pressure electric one, wide setting).

Otherwise installed some LED light pods and a mount high on the ROPS for those but will have to rewire - either have a short or 3 pods are too much for the 5amp fuse/existing work light pigtail. Didn't realize it blew fuse until after I got it back out to my remote property and don't feel like messing with it out there, so project for another time. Relocated the SMV sign and bolted a 50cal ammo can behind seat for a storage box. Reworked the hanger for the top link to accommodate the fatter hydraulic toplink so it holds it up without scratching it all up now.

CMV,

I have the same tractor. Couple things regarding hydraulic and front axle capacity:

Front Axle: I experienced EXACTLY what you are describing with the capacity seeming to be less than listed. After thinking about it longer, I had to remove to upper drain plugs to let the trapped air in the front axle hubs escape. Once I did this, I had to put in 2 extra quarts to get the oil to appear on the dipstick (as expected, it also started seeping from the upper drain plugs at this point).

Hydraulic Oil: The capacity of your HST tractor IS actually 11.9 gallons. Early printings of the owners manual and an old PSB had listed this tractor as having 14.5 gallon capacity. Look at the date on the back cover of your owners manual. Mine shows it was edited and printing in March 2015 and here's what mine states about hydraulic fluid capacity: Page 7-6 and page 3.13 show 11.89 gallons. Page 7-17 shows 14.6 gallons for HST (and the outdated PSB that is available online shows 14.6). I called corporate Kioti on this one and they said the capacity is actually 11.89. This was confirmed when my tractor took 10 gallons of fluid on a change. I think it's safe to assume the extra 1.9 gallons is fluid trapped in cylinders and pumps.

I hope this helps.

 

[wiskioti]

Here's the thread from my prep and findings from my 50 hour service:

https://www.tractorbynet.com/forums/kioti-owning-operating/394255-question-nx-owners.html