Notching posts for headers on pole barn

[BeezFun]

Need to notch the face of the posts on the pole barn I'm building to accept a 2x12 header that will support the trusses. I'm using a 3-ply header, you can see the drawing of it on page 11 of this document. The posts are solid treated 4x6, really tough, I think I'll use a small electric chain saw. Sawzall would probably take forever. Any suggestions?

 

[Darrenone]

The chain saw will work good. You can also use a circular saw, just have to cut from both sides and then adjust depth and cut across the face. Good luck to you.
Darren

 

[BeezFun]

The chain saw will work good. You can also use a circular saw, just have to cut from both sides and then adjust depth and cut across the face. Good luck to you.
Darren

Hmm, that would give a better cut. I was planning to use circular to cut the horizontal part of the notch, it's that vertical cut that's tougher. It's a little hard cutting on both sides of the post with a circular saw, even with a left and right handed saw. Plus I'm 10' in the air on a platform that's bouncing around. I'll try one to see how it goes.

 

[boggen]

make multi cuts with a circular saw. and then take a flat head screw driver and hammer, to tap out any were from 1/8" to 3/4" chunks between the saw cuts. then use a good sharp chisel to clean out the notch.

i say good sharp chisel. a dull chisel can make work extremely hard to work with.

i would be uneasy taking chain saw, even a reciprocating saw. and trying to get a nice constant depth across the entire area of the 4x6. ya they could make things quicker, but also most likely sloppy. at least that is my experience using a chain saw or reciprocating saw over that much width.

a circular saw set the depth. and get the lowest cut made, then everything else up can be pretty much random, just as long as you make enough cuts, to easily take a screw driver to pop the small chunks between the groves out. and then clean up with a chisel.

 

[s219]

I like boggen's approach if the post were on the ground. That's an old carpenter's trick I use all the time, even for half-lap joints on things like gates. Done right, it works very well.

However, if this post is already installed and the end is up in the air, that will be awkward. Not sure a chainsaw would be much better, not to mention you're asking for trouble anytime you get a chainsaw up in the air. If it were me, I'd keep thinking about tools and strategies a little more….

 

[Darrenone]

Hmm, that would give a better cut. I was planning to use circular to cut the horizontal part of the notch, it's that vertical cut that's tougher. It's a little hard cutting on both sides of the post with a circular saw, even with a left and right handed saw. Plus I'm 10' in the air on a platform that's bouncing around. I'll try one to see how it goes.

It is not as hard as it would seem. They might not line up perfectly but will be good enough for the beam and still better then a chain saw.

 

[smstonypoint]

I like boggen's approach if the post were on the ground. That's an old carpenter's trick I use all the time, even for half-lap joints on things like gates. Done right, it works very well.

However, if this post is already installed and the end is up in the air, that will be awkward. Not sure a chainsaw would be much better, not to mention you're asking for trouble anytime you get a chainsaw up in the air. If it were me, I'd keep thinking about tools and strategies a little more?

To make the process less "awkward," the OP could clamp a 2X to the post for support of the circular saw's base plate while making the horizontal cuts. Using quick-release bar clamps would speed up the task.

Steve

 

[chim]

I'd try a circular saw and a quickie rip fence. Assuming the poles are being set before you cut them, establish the bottom of the cut on the posts. Get a 12" long or so piece of 1-1/2 x 1-1/2 angle. Drill a couple holes in the one leg so it can be fastened to the poles with screws. With the legs out and down, fasten it to the pole below the cut mark at whatever distance it is between the edge of your sawblade and the side of the baseplate you want against the angle "fence". Set your saw depth as desired and have at it. The angle will prevent cutting too low and you can run the saw across the face at intervals that will make scrap removal very easy. Starting at the top and running the saw left to right might be a little awkward at first, but should provide enough of a mating surface between the pole and baseplate of the saw to keep the kerfs uniform (or leave enough material standing between cuts to support the saw base plate).

Never built a pole barn but I did work (on the electrical) on one being built. They used real poles, just like the power / phone company plants. They set the poles so all the tops needed trimmed before framing. It went fast, and the guys used chain saws for the cutting. They were a real bunch of morons when it came to safety - If you heard a 2-cycle fire up somewhere it was extremely important to determine if it was anywhere near you! Cutting notches before setting the poles would make the cutting a lot easier, but setting the poles to the exact elevation afterwards would be horribly ticklish.

 

[HCJtractor]

make multi cuts with a circular saw. and then take a flat head screw driver and hammer, to tap out any were from 1/8" to 3/4" chunks between the saw cuts. then use a good sharp chisel to clean out the notch.

i say good sharp chisel. a dull chisel can make work extremely hard to work with.

i would be uneasy taking chain saw, even a reciprocating saw. and trying to get a nice constant depth across the entire area of the 4x6. ya they could make things quicker, but also most likely sloppy. at least that is my experience using a chain saw or reciprocating saw over that much width.

a circular saw set the depth. and get the lowest cut made, then everything else up can be pretty much random, just as long as you make enough cuts, to easily take a screw driver to pop the small chunks between the groves out. and then clean up with a chisel.

Boggen, Thats exactly how to do this. I just did dozens of these on round posts from a ladder 12 feet up. Its simple and accurate enough for notches. I attached my 2x10's first with one screw on each end just to level it. It helps to have two people. Then marked it, removed the 2x10, cut the outer two cuts with a speed square and 18 V circular saw to make sure it is 90 degrees, made a series of cuts 1/2 inch apart randomly , and hammered out the pieces with the claw end af a hammer, and touched it up with a broad sharp chisel. Took about 2 minutes per notch. A chainsaw is not nearly as accurate and lots more dangerous. I have also done this with a router. I made a simple plywood jig with two parallel fences attached at the proper width. Screwed this jig to the post and simply ran the router between the fences (it helps to make a wider custom base for the router first because the stock round base is too small and will fall into the wide cut) You also probably need to make two passes so you don't have to bite the whole depth in one cut) This is much more accurate, results in perfect notches at the ideal depth and dead flat, but is really overkill for a pole shed. Would be more appropriate for furniture grade construction. Its pretty quick, but the circular saw method is quicker, easier, and close enough for this purpose. I then attach the beams with one ledger lock screw in each notch and do all beams or girts this way. I then come back and do my final fasteners (either lags or bolts) all at the same time, leaving the ledger lock in place or even removing it if you want to save $. No way I would pre-notch the post on the ground! This would be a nightmare to try to level it all accurately. All in all, this is a relatively simple process, especially if you have a helper.

 

[Willl]

Skill Saw, (don't over cut), finish w/ the Saws All.