NO TILT

LBrown59 · Jan 16, 2006

One of the limitations of a FEL.
Can't be tilted up or down on one side / end like a front dirt blade.
A rear blade has this same short coming.
Anyone have a solution to overcome this problem?
I need to slope the dirt away from the foundation walls of 2 buildings.
I need to drive the tractor along side of the walls not out away from them because of ditches being to close to the walls.

MadReferee · Jan 16, 2006

Rent a dozer with a 6-way tilt blade. A small Komatsu D20 or D21 will do the trick.

JerryG · Jan 16, 2006

With the rear blade, use your tilt adjustment on your three point hitch.

pekabu · Jan 16, 2006

Some rear blades also have a tilt feature. Check out the Midwest RB22 series at Tarheel Rear Blades

keeney · Jan 16, 2006

You CAN achieve the grading you desire with a non-tilting loader.

If you have room, it is way easier to do it by working up and down the desired slope, not along it.

Even still, you can also still do it by working mostly across the slope:

Along one side of my house where I had limited space to work (maybe 8 feet) and was unable to work up and down the grade, I was able to get the grading away from the house by using a combination of techniques:

1. Build up the rough grade by dumping the dirt along the desired high side adjacent to the house by filling only that one side or just the corner of the bucket from the stockpile.

2. Compact, smooth, and spread the dirt pushing forward with the bottom of the bucket in a diagonal direction, not completely parallel to the house, but slightly up and along the slope. The bucket would tend to slide the front of the tractor slightly sideways along the house as well. By varying the angle of the tractor, you can push the dirt more up the slope to make it higher, or more along the slope, spilling the excess to the sections not yet built up.

3. Once the first dozen feet of slope was established, the tractor would assume that angle and it became easier to achieve that same angle along the remainder of the length of the house.

- Rick

daTeacha · Jan 16, 2006

If you mess around with your top link and the leveler on the right lift arm, you can get quite a bit of tilt, especially if you angle the rear blade. My blade is 2 feet wider than the tractor so it's pretty easy for me, but most of them can be offset quite a bit to one side or the other to allow you to get the blade closer to the house than the tractor. Just unbolt the blade from the frame, move it sideways to another set of holes, and you're in business.

inveresk · Jan 16, 2006

Let down the tires on the downhill side /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

LBrown59 · Jan 19, 2006

( With the rear blade, use your tilt adjustment on your three point hitch. )
Thanks
Didn't know a 3 point hitch had a tilt adjustment.
But then Again I don't know much of anything about a 3 point hitch as I've never used one or fooled with them.

LBrown59 · Jan 19, 2006

1*If you have room, it is way easier to do it by working up and down the desired slope, not along it.
2*Build up the rough grade by dumping the dirt along the desired high side adjacent to the house by filling only that one side or just the corner of the bucket from the stockpile.

~~~~~~~~~~ 
~~~~~~~~~~~~
1*I don't have room at the back due to a ditch.
2*The high side adjacent to the building is already up to the proper grade but I need to go out about 4 feet from the wall and cut it down about 4 inches. This would give me a 4 inch slope in the 4 foot distance out from the wall.
Hopefully that will be enough to keep water from running in on the floor when it rains.

My plan is to use the tiller on my Bolens tractor to loosen up the soil in the 4 foot area then scoop/push it out with the BX23 FEL.

RobertN · Jan 19, 2006

You should have two adjusments on your 3pt. Remember this is on the 3pt, so it will affect any attachment.

Your top link and one side link should be adjustable. In the case of my B8200, the top link and one side like have small tabs sticking out in the middle, to assist in gripping the link as you turn it. There is also a locknut, so you maintain the adjustment once it is made.

Look at the top link first; it is the easiest to see and adjust. You'll note it is made of three pieces. The two end pieces with the eyes thread in to a middle portion. One of those end pieces has a locknut on it. Loosen that locknut. Now, turn the center section. As you turn it, you can lengthen or shorten it. In the case of a scraper, it will roll the scraper forward so the cutting edge takes a bigger bite, or will roll it back so the cutting edge takes a smaller bite. After adjusting the link, tighten the locknut, or else the link might loosen from vibration ect.

Now, look at the lower arms on your 3pt. You'll see two similar links attaching between the lower arms and the lift arms. On of the links is solid, the other looks like a short version of your top link. Again, loosen the lock-nut on the link, and then you can adjust it for length. Sometimes it helps to relieve the pressure on your implement by lifting or lowering it slightly.

Rmember, once you are done, to park the tractor on a level surface and reset/level the 3pt again.

Once you've done this a few times, you'll understand why we like TnT /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif