Hi i am not too mechanically inclined. I can really use some help from someone who is familiar with these units. I have a jinma 224 that has no oil pressure. I took off the oil filter and oil sending unit to see if there was any pressure while cranking, and no oil came out. I did this very breifly (5 secs). Engine seems to run fine with no clanking but initially noticed engine light on after machine was idling for 10 min. I am in a cold weather climate with new oil. what should i check next? Is oil pump failure most likely what happened? Or is cold weather an issue with freeze up?
No oil pressure in 224 (under 5 hrs.)
- Thread starter jinmaman
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Paddy
Veteran Member
It could be just a bad presure sending unit. Can't imagine it would run with out oil presure for very long befor melt down!
You might try tracing the wires back to the dash to see if you have a loose conection. My tach came and went on my KAMA until I adjusted it. You also might want to go with a mechanical oil unit. Not hard to find but the metric conversion can be tricky.
I sure hope it that and not a presure issue
Patrick
You might try tracing the wires back to the dash to see if you have a loose conection. My tach came and went on my KAMA until I adjusted it. You also might want to go with a mechanical oil unit. Not hard to find but the metric conversion can be tricky.
I sure hope it that and not a presure issue
Patrick
greg_g
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Engine light? that's a new one.......could you be a bit more specific? Or are you saying that yours has an idiot light instead of an oil pressure gauge?
As far as the OPSU, it's a diaphram type that must be installed at a specific depth - then locked in place. Assuming you have a gauge - and assuming you have confirmed that it actually works - then adjust for zero PSI down at the OPSU. Back off on the OPSU lock nut, rotate the sending unit itself clockwise till you get movement on the gauge. Adjust to zero PSI, lock down the OPSU
//greg//
As far as the OPSU, it's a diaphram type that must be installed at a specific depth - then locked in place. Assuming you have a gauge - and assuming you have confirmed that it actually works - then adjust for zero PSI down at the OPSU. Back off on the OPSU lock nut, rotate the sending unit itself clockwise till you get movement on the gauge. Adjust to zero PSI, lock down the OPSU
//greg//
mark1
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Hi..One of my Jinmas had a oil pressure gage that took forever to indicate I had pressure..I just didn't trust it. Got a mechanical one from Wal-Mart whole kit was 8 bucks,had metric fittings too. now the pressure reads quickly and I trust it. You can hook up a gage temporary while you troubleshoot your factory one.
Paddy
Veteran Member
RonMar
Elite Member
The newer Jinma's have both a electric pressure gauge and a low oil pressure idiot light on the combined instrunment panel(also has a charge idiot light).
Jinmaman, How cold is it where you are at? What weight oil do you have in it? There is oil in the oil pan as measured with the dipstick right(sorry, had to ask
?
Unfortunatly it sounds like you did the difinitive oil pressure test. If you remove the pressure sender and no oil comes out after a few seconds when you crank it over, something is wrong. Did this happen after an oil change? What I understand from reading your post, it sounded like it had been running with normal pressure and you left it idle for a bit(10 min?). When you came back you noticed the light on and no oil pressure? Is that about what happened? A combination of very low temp and straight weight oil could give you a problem at startup on a cold(non pre-heated) engine but if it was already running normally this is not likley.
A little more info would be good to make certain but if I understand your post correctly, I would guess you have a oil pump problem. Most definitly DO NOT run it without oil pressure untill you get this resolved.
If you are not too mechanically inclined, now is the time to yard in one of your buddies who is(beer and pizza usually works for me. The oil pump on the y380/385 engines is located in the oil pan. You will have to drain the oil and remove the pan to get at it. It is driven off a gear located in the middle of the Camshaft. The fact that the engine runs means the camshaft is ok so it is most likley something in the pump drive or plumbing. could be as simple as the oil pump outlet pipe being loose.
Jinmaman, How cold is it where you are at? What weight oil do you have in it? There is oil in the oil pan as measured with the dipstick right(sorry, had to ask
?Unfortunatly it sounds like you did the difinitive oil pressure test. If you remove the pressure sender and no oil comes out after a few seconds when you crank it over, something is wrong. Did this happen after an oil change? What I understand from reading your post, it sounded like it had been running with normal pressure and you left it idle for a bit(10 min?). When you came back you noticed the light on and no oil pressure? Is that about what happened? A combination of very low temp and straight weight oil could give you a problem at startup on a cold(non pre-heated) engine but if it was already running normally this is not likley.
A little more info would be good to make certain but if I understand your post correctly, I would guess you have a oil pump problem. Most definitly DO NOT run it without oil pressure untill you get this resolved.
If you are not too mechanically inclined, now is the time to yard in one of your buddies who is(beer and pizza usually works for me
. The oil pump on the y380/385 engines is located in the oil pan. You will have to drain the oil and remove the pan to get at it. It is driven off a gear located in the middle of the Camshaft. The fact that the engine runs means the camshaft is ok so it is most likley something in the pump drive or plumbing. could be as simple as the oil pump outlet pipe being loose.You got it exactly,
Started it up in the morning to warm it up so I could put the loaderon. It started fine even though I live farther north and is colder but it had oil pressure immediate with a 25 degree outside temp. I changed all the fluids a few days back and the engine got 15W40 oil.
When I came out after the 10min warmup the pressure guage read zero and the idiot light was on. I shut the tractor off and checked the oil which was right on. I then checked all connectors a fuses which were good. Then I removed the wires to the oil pressure sending unit. With them removed I turned the engine over and the guage was all the way to max. this made me think the oil pressure sending unit was OK. Next I removed the sending unit and cranked the engine but no oil puked out. The same test was done with oil filter removed and the same result.
At this point I think it is with the oil pump assembly. By the sounds of it and looking at the engine parts diagram all I should need to do is drain the oil, remove the pan. Then do a physical check to make sure all the plumbing is intact.
I noticed on the parts breakdown that there is a roll pin holding the pump to the shaft. Is it possible this came out.
Am I going down the correct path. Please correct me If I have made any mistakes.
If I need to replace the pump how do I do it and are they expensive.
Started it up in the morning to warm it up so I could put the loaderon. It started fine even though I live farther north and is colder but it had oil pressure immediate with a 25 degree outside temp. I changed all the fluids a few days back and the engine got 15W40 oil.
When I came out after the 10min warmup the pressure guage read zero and the idiot light was on. I shut the tractor off and checked the oil which was right on. I then checked all connectors a fuses which were good. Then I removed the wires to the oil pressure sending unit. With them removed I turned the engine over and the guage was all the way to max. this made me think the oil pressure sending unit was OK. Next I removed the sending unit and cranked the engine but no oil puked out. The same test was done with oil filter removed and the same result.
At this point I think it is with the oil pump assembly. By the sounds of it and looking at the engine parts diagram all I should need to do is drain the oil, remove the pan. Then do a physical check to make sure all the plumbing is intact.
I noticed on the parts breakdown that there is a roll pin holding the pump to the shaft. Is it possible this came out.
Am I going down the correct path. Please correct me If I have made any mistakes.
If I need to replace the pump how do I do it and are they expensive.
greg_g
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One other thing before you go as far as pulling the pan. The OPSU is screwed onto an extension pipe. You said you removed the OPSU expecting oil to come out while cranking. Did you check the extension pipe for blockage ? Better yet, did you remove the pipe before cranking?
//greg//
//greg//
greg_g
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OK. Just covering all the bases. I didn't think the simple act of changing oil should screw up an oil pump, so wanted to eliminate all other possibilities first. There could have been some crud in the pan that worked its way into the OPSU pipe.
It still can't hurt to double check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, before tearing into that oil pump. I'm just finding the oil pressure issue immediately following an oil change a bit too coincidental - especially with only 5 hours on the engine.
//greg//
It still can't hurt to double check oil pressure with a mechanical gauge, before tearing into that oil pump. I'm just finding the oil pressure issue immediately following an oil change a bit too coincidental - especially with only 5 hours on the engine.
//greg//