Sup Fellas, getting Kioti NX 5010 for my 27 acres. I wouldn't call my land hilly, but there are a few slopes heading down to a creek. This is my first tractor. I'm a safety first guy and was wanting some basic knowledge on tractor stability on slope. Will be brush hoging area and maybe removing brush, so at times will have stuff on FEL. Getting my tires filled btw, thanks for y'alls input.
No flipping tractor
- Thread starter Jasonpro
- Start date
- Views: 6708
CobyRupert
Super Member
Read this:
View attachment Tractor Overturn Hazards 202[1].pdf
A big factor is "center of gravity" (COG). The lower the better. Add weight below COG, lowers COG for more stability, adding weight, or raising FEL above COG decreases stability.
So when brush hogging, having mower hanging (low) on 3 PTH lowers COG than if mower is floating on ground.
Keep FEL low!
The wider the better, set tires (if adjustable) as wide as possible, or look into "Wheel spacers" for making rear tires wider apart.
Filling (partially) tires with fluid lowers COG.
View attachment Tractor Overturn Hazards 202[1].pdf
A big factor is "center of gravity" (COG). The lower the better. Add weight below COG, lowers COG for more stability, adding weight, or raising FEL above COG decreases stability.
So when brush hogging, having mower hanging (low) on 3 PTH lowers COG than if mower is floating on ground.
Keep FEL low!
The wider the better, set tires (if adjustable) as wide as possible, or look into "Wheel spacers" for making rear tires wider apart.
Filling (partially) tires with fluid lowers COG.
AWSubie
Platinum Member
Use your 4WD and don’t drive across the slope. Drive up and down the slope in 4WD and you’ll be safe.
D2Cat
Platinum Member
- Joined
- Nov 6, 2014
- Messages
- 764
- Location
- 50 miles south of Kansas City
- Tractor
- Case730, Deutz 6206, Cat D2, Kubota L305, Kubota L4240, Kubota B7100HST, Kubota TG1860G, TG1860D
When on slopes have the tractor in 4x4. This engages the front end, and offers more resistance when going down hill. You have no brakes on the front of a tractor, so the engagement of the engine helps keep things under control.
CobyRupert
Super Member
To be more technical, when in 4 wd you also have "pedal braking" at front tires, in addition to "engine braking". When in 4wd the front wheels are mechanical linked to rear wheels, so the front wheels will have braking power (when you press brakes) by this linkage to the rear wheel's brakes.
This why it's important to be in 4wd when heading downhill with a load in FEL which make back tires have very light contact with ground causing rear tires to easily skid/slide, sending driver on a wild ride until they figure out to drop the bucket to the ground.
BrokenTrack
Veteran Member
- Joined
- Jan 13, 2018
- Messages
- 1,422
- Location
- Maine
- Tractor
- Tractors, Skidders, Bulldozers, Forestry Equipment
On a hillside, just remember that slow is deliberate, and deliberate is fast.
By and large, tractors are designed to stay on their wheels. If you go fast, it upsets the weight transfer and that is what sends you over.
I mow some pretty steep hillsides as I mow the sides of the road, and generally, as long as the hillside is consistent, the tractor wants to stay upright, it is just you never know when there is a woodchuck hole, and you begin to pucker up in the seat.
But this is the number one rule of roadside mower operators everywhere: "No grass is worth cutting if you do not feel safe." There are a ton of other machines that can get to that grass to mow if need be, it is not worth getting hurt over.
By and large, tractors are designed to stay on their wheels. If you go fast, it upsets the weight transfer and that is what sends you over.
I mow some pretty steep hillsides as I mow the sides of the road, and generally, as long as the hillside is consistent, the tractor wants to stay upright, it is just you never know when there is a woodchuck hole, and you begin to pucker up in the seat.
But this is the number one rule of roadside mower operators everywhere: "No grass is worth cutting if you do not feel safe." There are a ton of other machines that can get to that grass to mow if need be, it is not worth getting hurt over.
ericm979
Super Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2016
- Messages
- 5,805
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mountains CA, Southern OR
- Tractor
- Branson 3725H Deere 5105
When on a side hill take care to note dips on the low side and hillocks on the high side. Either can change your machine's angle pretty quick.
Also remember that it's the rear axle that provides side to side stability because the front axle is on a center pivot. So you can drive over a dip/lump with the front and the tractor's angle won't change until you get there with the rear tires.
You can get off and walk the area if it's covered by grass.
Also since you have a ROPS you need to wear the seat belt on any questionable terrain. It'd be unfortunate to have the ROPS keep the tractor from going over but pin you under it.
Also remember that it's the rear axle that provides side to side stability because the front axle is on a center pivot. So you can drive over a dip/lump with the front and the tractor's angle won't change until you get there with the rear tires.
You can get off and walk the area if it's covered by grass.
Also since you have a ROPS you need to wear the seat belt on any questionable terrain. It'd be unfortunate to have the ROPS keep the tractor from going over but pin you under it.
ning
Elite Member
One thing I recently realized is that "how much is too much" (regarding side tilt) also depends on what's to your side.
As in, "If the tractor rolled here, what would happen?" - If you're mowing the side a ditch and a rollover would result with the tractor laying on its side on the other side of the ditch, that's not ideal, but it's not particularly terrible. If you're mowing the side of a pond, and a rollover would result in a bath... that's significantly worse, especially if the pond is deep and muddy, your ROPS could sink in significantly with all the weight of the tractor on it. If you're a steep hill and there's no flat spot to turn around at the top (you are mowing up and down the slope, right?) so you've got a brief side-slope as you turn around... a rollover could be over and over and that could get really nasty too.
In my own moment of clarity, I was considering that a rollover (I wasn't at the pucker stage yet but I was like "what if this edge collapsed now?") could get me skewered by a t-post that was to my side and below, or smooshed against a very strong wooden post... think like a tree. ROPS won't help that.
My point is, danger is relative. I'm not suggesting that it's ok to rollover in some situations, but I am saying that I'm willing to push things more in some cases than others.
Think track days. You get on a motorcycle and ride at a track in controlled situations where a crash is most likely going to result in a few scuffs on the protective suit (and there's an ambulance standing by); you're more willing to ride hard there than on the country road, but you still would rather not crash.
As in, "If the tractor rolled here, what would happen?" - If you're mowing the side a ditch and a rollover would result with the tractor laying on its side on the other side of the ditch, that's not ideal, but it's not particularly terrible. If you're mowing the side of a pond, and a rollover would result in a bath... that's significantly worse, especially if the pond is deep and muddy, your ROPS could sink in significantly with all the weight of the tractor on it. If you're a steep hill and there's no flat spot to turn around at the top (you are mowing up and down the slope, right?) so you've got a brief side-slope as you turn around... a rollover could be over and over and that could get really nasty too.
In my own moment of clarity, I was considering that a rollover (I wasn't at the pucker stage yet but I was like "what if this edge collapsed now?") could get me skewered by a t-post that was to my side and below, or smooshed against a very strong wooden post... think like a tree. ROPS won't help that.
My point is, danger is relative. I'm not suggesting that it's ok to rollover in some situations, but I am saying that I'm willing to push things more in some cases than others.
Think track days. You get on a motorcycle and ride at a track in controlled situations where a crash is most likely going to result in a few scuffs on the protective suit (and there's an ambulance standing by); you're more willing to ride hard there than on the country road, but you still would rather not crash.
ericm979
Super Member
- Joined
- Nov 25, 2016
- Messages
- 5,805
- Location
- Santa Cruz Mountains CA, Southern OR
- Tractor
- Branson 3725H Deere 5105
Excellent points.
jbrumberg
Elite Member
- Joined
- Jan 22, 2006
- Messages
- 4,903
- Location
- Cummington, MA
- Tractor
- New Holland TC29DA, John Deere D130
All good posts. Rig balance (fore-aft) is important as well.
Possibly another link from PSU:
Tractor Stability and Instability
Possibly another link from PSU:
Tractor Stability and Instability