newbie question on shifting CK20 gear

[DroppedAxle]

Hi All,
Looking to buy my first tractor, possibly a used CK20 gear. My questions are (1) how does shifting work on this model? and (2) is a gear CK20 appropriate for my work and tractor experience (none)?

I read on tractor data that 1st gear is synchronized between forward and reverse. What does this mean in practice? Can I go from F to R by throwing a lever? Do I need to clutch to do this?

What about shifting into other gears/ranges? I'm guessing I need to clutch, bring the tractor to a stop, and then change gears...

The work will consist of ongoing pothole repair on a 600' gravel drive, drilling holes for split-rail fence posts, turning over the compost, moving saplings around and perhaps digging small holes for them, and general moving of the occasional square hay bale, a bucket of firewood, etc. Property is flat flat flat. No regular mowing, though pastures currently hayed by farmer (with big tractors) and there's some future chance I may need to cut it down once or twice a year myself (5ac). A one-time project will be to fill 1-2 dumpsters with construction debris and other **** the former owner dumped in the woods.

Does a gear tractor seem reasonable for the tasks? Is a gear tractor suitable for a newbie using it infrequently (a few hours on the weekends)? That is, can it be operated safely by a newbie given that more coordination is needed when loading, for example?

Thanks.

DA

 

[Ranchofla]

Hi All,
Looking to buy my first tractor, possibly a used CK20 gear. My questions are (1) how does shifting work on this model? and (2) is a gear CK20 appropriate for my work and tractor experience (none)?

I read on tractor data that 1st gear is synchronized between forward and reverse. What does this mean in practice? Can I go from F to R by throwing a lever? Do I need to clutch to do this?

What about shifting into other gears/ranges? I'm guessing I need to clutch, bring the tractor to a stop, and then change gears...

The work will consist of ongoing pothole repair on a 600' gravel drive, drilling holes for split-rail fence posts, turning over the compost, moving saplings around and perhaps digging small holes for them, and general moving of the occasional square hay bale, a bucket of firewood, etc. Property is flat flat flat. No regular mowing, though pastures currently hayed by farmer (with big tractors) and there's some future chance I may need to cut it down once or twice a year myself (5ac). A one-time project will be to fill 1-2 dumpsters with construction debris and other **** the former owner dumped in the woods.

Does a gear tractor seem reasonable for the tasks? Is a gear tractor suitable for a newbie using it infrequently (a few hours on the weekends)? That is, can it be operated safely by a newbie given that more coordination is needed when loading, for example?

Thanks.

DA

I have owned older manual shift tractors and now own a CK20 HST and as much FEL work as I have done in the last year I am SOOOOO glad to have the HST instead of gears. Just my opinion but HST is the way to go if you are going to do much FEL work.

Rancho

 

[ddb123]

I second the recommendation for a HST. It sounds like most of your tasks (box blading, post hole digging, digging with FEL) would be better suited to a HST. Otherwise, you are looking at a lot of stopping, clutching, and shifting with the gear. Think of all that back and forth when digging with the loader. And when digging post holes, it's nice to have the HST so you can move the tractor a bit and dig a straight hole.

I do not believe the CK20 gear has a shuttle between forward and reverse. This means you would have to stop and move the gear lever to reverse like you do in a manual transmission vehicle. Synchro between first and reverse just helps to keep from grinding the gears. It is possible with these types of transmission to upshift on the move, but you can't really downshift. I found that with a straight gear transmission, I had difficulty finding the right speed for the job, especially when using the loader. Speed is always tied to engine speed in a gear transmission. With a HST your speed is determined by your right foot.

There is a Youtube video of a guy digging a pond with a CK20 HST to give you an idea of the capability of these little machines. I don't recommend doing everything he does in the video (in terms of safety, or lack thereof). Digging a pond with a Compact Tractor - Kioti CK20s - YouTube

 

[GMtb42]

+1 On what Rancho said.
Had the Kubota L2800 it was stick (manual), once you go Hydro you wont go back. It had a shuttle shift and you had to stop the wheels all the way to shift from forward to reverse with the clutch in, which I would lock up the brakes and would shift it, the Kioti may be different though.
But to answer your question, stick will do what you want, so I wouldn't give up on it if it is a good price. My $.02

 

[Gittyup]

I second the recommendation for a HST. It sounds like most of your tasks (box blading, post hole digging, digging with FEL) would be better suited to a HST. Otherwise, you are looking at a lot of stopping, clutching, and shifting with the gear. Think of all that back and forth when digging with the loader. And when digging post holes, it's nice to have the HST so you can move the tractor a bit and dig a straight hole.

I do not believe the CK20 gear has a shuttle between forward and reverse. This means you would have to stop and move the gear lever to reverse like you do in a manual transmission vehicle. Synchro between first and reverse just helps to keep from grinding the gears. It is possible with these types of transmission to upshift on the move, but you can't really downshift. I found that with a straight gear transmission, I had difficulty finding the right speed for the job, especially when using the loader. Speed is always tied to engine speed in a gear transmission. With a HST your speed is determined by your right foot.

There is a Youtube video of a guy digging a pond with a CK20 HST to give you an idea of the capability of these little machines. I don't recommend doing everything he does in the video (in terms of safety, or lack thereof). Digging a pond with a Compact Tractor - Kioti CK20s - YouTube

No the CK20 does not have a shuttle. The other, bigger CKs do, but not the CK20. The gears are synchronized, meaning you can shift gears without stopping. You do have to stop to change ranges. The CK20, then has 8 FWD and 2 REV speeds. The shuttle shift on the bigger CKs makes it easier to go from forward to reverse, and effectively gives you 8 rev speeds, and you don't have to stop to shift FWD/REV. Also, the CK20 does not have a live clutch. The bigger CK geared are live clutch. I have a CK25 shuttle and have well over 1000 tons of dirt and rock with it in the loader. Works fine. Not quite the control of HST, but I do have more power to the ground and PTO with the gear.

For the OP's biggest needs, the gear model would work fine. If doing a lot of loader work, then HST is the way to go.

It is the very slow reverse speeds that, to me, is the real negative with the CK20 gear. Spend a couple dollars more and get the bigger CKs with shuttle. Or go HST in any of them.

 

[Donfi]

I have a 2011 CK20S and do all you are looking at. Am able to upshift while in motion, downshifting requires a bit of double clutching but not an issue. More power to the ground and is easy to manage. Shifting to reverse must be done at a stop, and yes reverse is a little slow, but such is life, give a little gain a little. Whichever way you go You won't be disappointed with the ck20.

 

[mj007]

Hi All,
Looking to buy my first tractor, possibly a used CK20 gear. My questions are (1) how does shifting work on this model? and (2) is a gear CK20 appropriate for my work and tractor experience (none)?

I read on tractor data that 1st gear is synchronized between forward and reverse. What does this mean in practice? Can I go from F to R by throwing a lever? Do I need to clutch to do this?

What about shifting into other gears/ranges? I'm guessing I need to clutch, bring the tractor to a stop, and then change gears...

The work will consist of ongoing pothole repair on a 600' gravel drive, drilling holes for split-rail fence posts, turning over the compost, moving saplings around and perhaps digging small holes for them, and general moving of the occasional square hay bale, a bucket of firewood, etc. Property is flat flat flat. No regular mowing, though pastures currently hayed by farmer (with big tractors) and there's some future chance I may need to cut it down once or twice a year myself (5ac). A one-time project will be to fill 1-2 dumpsters with construction debris and other **** the former owner dumped in the woods.

Does a gear tractor seem reasonable for the tasks? Is a gear tractor suitable for a newbie using it infrequently (a few hours on the weekends)? That is, can it be operated safely by a newbie given that more coordination is needed when loading, for example?

Thanks.

DA

Get the HST - you won't regret it :2cents:

 

[DroppedAxle]

No the CK20 does not have a shuttle. The other, bigger CKs do, but not the CK20. The gears are synchronized, meaning you can shift gears without stopping. You do have to stop to change ranges. The CK20, then has 8 FWD and 2 REV speeds. The shuttle shift on the bigger CKs makes it easier to go from forward to reverse, and effectively gives you 8 rev speeds, and you don't have to stop to shift FWD/REV. Also, the CK20 does not have a live clutch. The bigger CK geared are live clutch. I have a CK25 shuttle and have well over 1000 tons of dirt and rock with it in the loader. Works fine. Not quite the control of HST, but I do have more power to the ground and PTO with the gear.

For the OP's biggest needs, the gear model would work fine. If doing a lot of loader work, then HST is the way to go.

It is the very slow reverse speeds that, to me, is the real negative with the CK20 gear. Spend a couple dollars more and get the bigger CKs with shuttle. Or go HST in any of them.

Gittyup, thanks.

I think you mean 6 FWD, 2 REV, but no matter.

How easy/hard is it to position a gear tractor somewhat precisely for hole augur work, for example? Is it difficult/impossible to only move a gear tractor a couple of inches at a time? I don't know, but I'm guessing a shuttle does not help in that regard.

I should note that I'm looking at a particular CK20 gear that is a TLB at a good price, so "getting the HST" really isn't an option unless a used one turns up or dealers start discounting them heavily.

And I wish it were only "a couple dollars more" for the bigger CKs -- closer to a couple/three thousand more...

DA

 

[Gittyup]

DA, It is 8 FWD. It's a 4 speed x 2 ranges. I had no difficulty adjusting the tractor when I built my fence. I put in about 500 feet on widely varying terrain pretty easily. It's not to hard to adjust. Just use low gear, low range......... and a big bit

 

[blucoondawg]

Gittyup, thanks.

I think you mean 6 FWD, 2 REV, but no matter.

How easy/hard is it to position a gear tractor somewhat precisely for hole augur work, for example? Is it difficult/impossible to only move a gear tractor a couple of inches at a time? I don't know, but I'm guessing a shuttle does not help in that regard.

I should note that I'm looking at a particular CK20 gear that is a TLB at a good price, so "getting the HST" really isn't an option unless a used one turns up or dealers start discounting them heavily.

And I wish it were only "a couple dollars more" for the bigger CKs -- closer to a couple/three thousand more...

DA

In my opinion the hydro is far nicer to use for most things but it can be done with gears as well. If you have a deal on a tractor in the size you want and buying new to get the options you want isn't an option then certainly don't worry about the type of transmission. Moving slightly with a great tractor is done the same as one would move a manual transmission car forward a couple inches, simply ease the clutch out slowly the tractor will begin to move slowly, when you move the desired amount apply the clutch again and set the brake and bingo you moved a couple inches. It isn't difficult to drive and with a little seat time should easily have the hang of it