Newbie JD 755 tractor owner with questions

[Wolfman37]

I've had this tractor about 3 years. Started losing power under load, so I changed the fuel, oil, and transmission filter and new fluids. Changed the inner and outer air cleaners. Cleaned out the screens.

Now it won't start. I am mechanically inclined in that I can take things apart and put them back together properly, but I don't know much else.

I have the owners manual and a I&T Shop Service manual, but they aren't very good.

1. Where can I get pictures of the engine with labels of the parts?

When it worked, I would turn the key and I would get a "cicking sound" while it warmed up.

2. What was the clicking sound?

More questions to come.

Thanks
Steve

 

[Barely Smokin']

Others more knowledgeable than I will chime in soon, but I bet you a dollar that the clicking sound is (was) your fuel pump. I'd start by checking your fuel pump fuse, then the connector.

What do you mean by "won't start"? Cranks, doesn't fire? Doesn't crank? Sputters but won't idle?

 

[yankeerider]

Steve- How did you go about "changing" the fuel? I'm wondering if you lost fuel supply to the injection pump. Is the fuel filter full of fuel?

You can find drawings of parts and their descriptions at jdparts.com. You'll need to set up a username there, but it's free.

 

[Wolfman37]

No fuel in the bowl.

Engine cranks but no start.

I checked all the fuses.

I havent looked at JD parts, yet, but there is a unit in the top of the gas tank, and then there is the part where the fuel injectors are (fuel injection pump?)

So, I took the hoses off the unit from the gas tank and turned it over. No diesel comes out.

 

[Wolfman37]

Been to jdparts and deere.com

In trouble shooting, it says injection pump shut-off not reset - turn key switch to off then on NOTHING HAPPENED

Next, it says fuel shut off valve closed - open fuel shut off vlave on fuel tank and fuel filter.

In jdparts, I dont see a fuel shut off valve. I see a picture of a fuel shut off solenoid, but I don't know where that is located on the engine.

Also, there is a round shaped object in one of the fuel lines between the gas tank and the fuel filter. What is that called, and what is it for? I see it on the picture, but it is not listed as a separate part.

Thanks

 

[JD755]

The round object is the electric fuel pump. It produces that clicking sound you hear when turning the key to the ON position. That is a good sign and says the pump is probably working. But if there is no fuel in the fuel bowl, it is not pushing fuel through. Have you read the procedure to bleed the fuel line? You need to do this after changing the filter. You may have an air lock blocking the fuel. Bleeding would clear the air out and let fuel flow.

The 755 tractor does not have a manual fuel shutoff. Late model 855 tractors with the fuel tank relocated above the engine have that. Since all 755 tractors have the fuel tank in front of the radiator they do not require one.

The fuel shutoff solenoid is located on the right side of the engine, just above the electric fuel pump. It will shut off fuel flow in the injection pump. However, all that is after the fuel filter so I would leave that for now until you get fuel first to the filter.

When you say unit in the top of the gas tank I think you mean the fuel level sensor. What did you turn over and saw no fuel come out?

Edit: I just noticed . I think you are saying you no longer get the clicking sound. That would clearly be a reason for no fuel flowing to the filter.

 

[Wolfman37]

Thanks guys for all your help.

Found the solenoid. Took it out to make sure the plunger was working - it did. Saw that on another thread.

Found out where the fuel pump was and the sending unit. Even jdparts pictures were not much help.

Power to fuel pump, but it was dead. John Deere dealer sold me a new holland pump - had to make a new connector. Bled the system. Sputtered and died, but finally came to life!

Need to finalize the connector, and put things back together. Drain the radiator and refill.

Now to see if it still loses power under load.

Next, the warning lights have never worked and I want to add some back work lights.

How should I connect the back work lights? If I add back work lights, I need them to work the same time the front lights are on.

 

[JD755]

By warning lights, do you mean the large flashing ones on the fenders, or the indicator lights on the dash?

 

[Wolfman37]

Fenders. Put in new bulbs - no light.

Will have to go thru the wiring, I guess. All fuses seem to be ok.

 

[Barely Smokin']

Great, Wolfman. Good to hear we're making progress. Let me say again that I don't have a 755, so you may get better advice from someone who does, or at least someone who knows more about that JD model. I'm just passing along general advice....

On the rear lamps, check to make sure the contacts in the socket aren't corroded/oxidized. This may prevent the new bulbs from working. This is a great chance to get some emery cloth and some electrical contacts cleaner and clean those bad boys up. Go ahead and get you some dielectric grease while you're at it, which is great for protecting connections you've just cleaned. Also, there's probably a connector under one or both rear fenders somewhere. These occasionally get disconnected by branches thrashing around under the tractor. Check to make sure your flasher relay is fully seated, probably take it out, blast it and the base with cleaner, then reseat it. Check the wires on the back of the on/off switch. Then, I'd start checking voltages along the circuit to pinpoint the problem.

There are a bunch of ways to do the rear work light. You're factory wiring harness may already have provisions for one. Otherwise, google "tractor work light" and a bunch will pop up.

It sounds like you might want to go with a simple set-up, something easy to install.

The *easiest* set-up will be a light that has a on/off switch built into the housing of the light itself. Some also have a magnetic base, so you don't have to drill a mounting hole. Plus, you can move it anywhere you want, like when you're trying to troubleshoot your fuel pump at night ;-)

You can run the power connection directly to the battery, AS LONG AS the hot lead has an inline fuse. Terminate the power/ground leads in ring terminals that will fit over the battery lug bolts. Keep in mind that if you find a light that is terminated in a 12v plug, you can just cut that off and terminate with ring terminals, or even mini battery clamps (think jumper cables).

Or, you can hard mount the light and run it to a weatherproof switch on the dash, if you have a space for one. You'll need to fuse this arrangement as well.

If you want the light to come on with the headlights, which I discourage, you'll probably need to add a relay for this light as part of the headlight circuit.

You may want to search on this forum for how other people have tackled work lights. Again, lots of ways to do this, some more "proper" than others, some more labor intensive, pros and cons to each way...depends on your skill level, interest, etc.