Newbie BX 1860 owner done lurking...

[OrangeinWis]

Hey, TBNers, first time Kubota ownin' poster here, taking it to a higher level of what my wife calls ''his new addiction'', needing some advice on a couple of things. I have sat behind the scenes on TBN about four months now, reading everything , and I mean everything, can't get enough, It's great that something like this community exists, where there are seemingly no stupid questions. I try to answer the apprentices at work in the same manner as you guys, paper machines or tractors, less of a chance of getting hurt or worse, ask me why before your wife asks me why.
Ok, back to the BX 1860, I sometimes park it in the shed with the loader in the raised position, bucket resting on a shelf in front, because the shed is too small. Am I hurting anything, like the seals, or should the cylinders be exposed like that for any period of time concerning corrosion or the like? I can take the loader off in a jiffy, but I come home lazy from using it at my boy's house as an 11,700.00 ''log lift'', unload it (the tractor leaves with me, the tractor goes home with me), and head straight for the beer (replaces log splitter/chainsaw buzz with another).
Also, can I get any advice on how you guys would tie down a tractor of this size to my trailer, my narrow ratchet straps aren't nearly heavy enough. chains and binders are an option, I would like to use heavier ratchet straps, said straps being less messy concerning rust. The trailer is aluminum, eyebolts are 1/2'' s.s. Thanks.

 

[KennyV]

Welcome to THE 'place'....
There are a few that may give you grief for asking questions that have already been asked... but the majority of folks at this forum are very helpful... and it is always nice to get another perspective...
I try to keep my rods inside the cylinders but really they are fairly well protected from rust, so it is not the end of the world if you leave them exposed... I've seen heavy equipment left exposed for years. Kubota uses good material on their equipment.

I would always opt for chain and boomers. You can get a small 1/4or 5/16 inch transport rated chains... they are plenty tough and will not rust.
And BTW you should move those tie-down eyes to the deck. Always secure to the lowest point that is possible. And check that their rating is up to the task, SS is nice to look at and maintenance free but it is not particularly strong. KennyV

 

[JOHNTHOMAS]

I use the wide straps. I think they are 4 or 5 inches wide. I think they have 10000 or 20000 lbs printed on them. I've used them moving an L3240HST, B's and BX's but I don't move them frequently. Welcome to the World of Orange. If your careful, always keep your bucket close to the ground, the Kubota can save your back and add years to your life (physically and mentally). I usually lift my front end off the ground when I park mine so I wouldn't worry about the rods rusting. One front tire still goes flat. As you'll see we have alot of different ideas amongst us. Keep in mind some people wish we still rode horses to work and if if worked for grandpa it's still the best way to do it. Others are always up for trying some thing new and improved and some believe whatever they chose for themselves has to be the answer for everyone else. Learn to apply filters to info and check what machine your info advisor has decided is the best machine for themselves. Welcome and have a great, careful time. Feel free to ask questions because there is a lot of turnover of owners and everything changes, even features on a machine and new implements. They've even added automatic transmissions (HST) to tractors 40 years ago and some still believe it's not reliable course naysayers said the same thing about automatic transmissions in cars. Some of the advise in days gone by doesn't apply and more than likely if you have a question, another watcher or newbie also has the same question but won't ask. Also there are some people, me included that never used a feature on a tractor for years and suddenly comes up with a need for it and finds out it is on their tractor. There are no dumb questions. Someone mentioned the front bucket float one day and several owners responded they never knew about it and they had owned their tractor for years.

 

[TripleR]

Welcome to the forum. I agree with others that no harm will come from leaving the rods exposed, especially in a shed.

I usually use ratchet straps and have had no issues, I have used narrow and wide; narrow ones were aircraft tie downs, but really think the wide ones will be fine.

There is a lot of information on here about tie downs, anchor points, locations etc. with opinions varying from those who seem to feel you need an enormous dual axle trailer with load binders suitable to an excavator pulled by a deisel at a minimum to those who feel comfortable with ropes, small trailer pulled by a Prius. I am somewhere in between, but read everything and you can judge for yourself; lots of good information from people who know LOTS more than I; been driving tractors for over fifty years and I learn stuff on here all the time.

Enjoy your tractor and don't be afraid to ask questions.

 

[wowwee]

Hi There, good to see someone else from WI. I'm near Appleton.
I like to leave my cylinders as protected as possible, but if the tractor is stored where nothing can hit them they should be OK. The other thing I always wondered about was developing rust eventually.

Dale

 

[OrangeinWis]

Guys, thanks for the welcome. Concerning the the tying down of the tractor, KennyV I see your point. I will go lower to the holes in the vertical angles that support the side rails, might that be ok? Also, anyone have any ideas where on the tractor to connect to? Grill guard, rops, near 3-point, or any other frame pcs? When I haul, I take the back roads, slow and easy, but still want adequate lashing on the load-the Safari van with no brakes on the trailer isn't the answer by any means I know.

 

[radioman]

First- welcome to TBN. The 1860 is a nice tractor.
Second, the tie downs really needs to be wider then those narrow 1 inch straps. I use chains and binders ( i wish I gotten the rachet ones) from HF to tie down the tractor. The narrow ones may hold tractor in a sudden stop, but not in a event of rollover. If your load (ie BX and implements) comes loose, you become liable and can be ticketed for it. you can use the narrow straps to tie down the carryall, and FEL bucket, but chains are ideal for tractor itself. KennyV is right, moving the tiedown hooks on top of your trailer rails is kinda too high just for the BX,. It will work itself loose easier and harder to hold down since half of holding power is above the railing.

It is a good practice to have rods retracted, but the issue here is safety with FEL in the air. overtime, before you know it, the FEL will get the leakdown issues and that will put stress on the building, not the tractor. Do wha tyou gotta do, but if you are truely lazy, at least just back in the garage and have FEL pointed outside, just close the garage door over the FEL arms with bucket sticking outside. At least the saftey issue is taken care of and rods retracted.

In short of adding on 2 ft in front of the garage, have you tried to curl the bucket all the way down and see if you have enough room? Another idea is to get a quick hitch and use that to disconnect the carryall for more room in the garage- would be faster then the FEL removal .

 

[KennyV]

the holes in the vertical angles that support the side rails, might that be ok? Also, anyone have any ideas where on the tractor to connect to?

That is better BUT the best is the lowest possible point... I'd move them to the deck.
The deck will have a lot more strength and you will eventually bend your rails attaching to the uprights.
As to a hook up point on the tractor. Choose the most solid and substantial chunk, frame or something large well attached to it. Attach front and rear.

May not need mentioning but, tie down in an X manner, you want to be pulling DOWN and forward, & DOWN and to the rear, not just side to side. KennyV

 

[CHDinCT]

Welcome to TBN and the 1860 club! Can't advise you on trailering, mine hasn't left my property (OK neighborhood) since it was delivered new. As far as the cylinders being exposed, since it's in a shed, I wouldn't worry about them rusting from weather - should be fine. Enjoy your new ride.

 

[OrangeinWis]

Hi There, good to see someone else from WI. I'm near Appleton.
I like to leave my cylinders as protected as possible, but if the tractor is stored where nothing can hit them they should be OK. The other thing I always wondered about was developing rust eventually.

Dale

Ah, I KNEW I didn't have the only Kubota in the valley! I, too, am from Appleton. My next door neighbor's grandfather (neighbor being in his early 70's) started the original Service Motors, thus there was only a certain brand of orange-colored tractor that he would gladly help me decide to buy.
As for my question about loader cyl. damage storing in the raised pos., it looks like most advice implies the obvious: a piece of equip. like polished cyl. rods should be kept from any outside exposure whenever possible. Am I right in thinking they kind of self-store in an oil bath when retracted anyways?