new (to me) MT 180, been sitting, trying to get running

jhnpldng · Feb 26, 2015

New to the forum and to diesels. Just bought a Mitsubishi MT 180. It has the K3C engine. It hasn't been running for a while though I don't know how long. Seller swears it's a good runner. We'll see. I topped off the fuel tank on the trip back though maybe it should all be drained. I thought diesel lasted longer than gasoline. Downloaded the operator's manual which I found in a post here. The manual has instructions for bleeding the fuel system. Opened the two screws by the filter and they both had straight fuel come out/no air. It's got straight fuel at the inlent to the pump. Cracked the injector lines and cranked it and had fuel drizzle out the front two but not the rear. At least not yet. Need to charge the battery as it's cranking slow now. I did put a tablespoon of oil down the intake. Engine oil is blackstrap mollasses but I was hoping to get it running and warm it up just a little before draining. The key switch has "heat" position when turned left which puts power to the glow plugs. Supposed to do that for about 5 seconds when it's cold out. 20 degrees F today. Unfortunately the key won't turn left so until I get a chance to take the ign switch out and maybe apart, I guess I'll have to jump power to the glow plugs. 12 volts + to the terminals on those?
Is there some major difference between a K3C and a K3C-13MT. ngine has a sticker on the valve cover with K3C-13MT. I saw one parts site that had both listed with plenty avalable for the K3C and almost nothing for the K3C-13MT so that worries me a bit. Seems these engines are used in other things like fork lifts and mowers. Any good sorces for parts out there?
Any general advice for getting this thing running in cold weather considering it hasn't been running in a while? It's got a block heater but I guess it's not working. I had it plugged in for a couple of hours and that spot on the block is 18 degrees F just like the rest of it. Don't have a heated shop but I might be able to tent it with a heater.

Thanks, John

ThomasH · Feb 27, 2015

There is a Mitsubishi forum here that you might want to post this on, but I have had a few of the 20 and 25 horse versions which are similar so this might help. You will want to put a 25+ amp charger on the battery before you start, as you are going to give the starter a good workout. Keep in mind that you should NOT run the starter more than 30 seconds or so at a time with a minute or so to cool off, or you could burn it out.

Also, if the heat plugs aren't working, then they need to be fixed, and cycle them on for at least 20 seconds. Your idea of tenting the tractor would also help, as mechanically injected diesels like this one crank a lot easier when the fuel is warmer.

To fix the fuel problems you need to fill the tank with fresh diesel. Then drain the fuel bowl and make sure that any water in the first section of the fuel system is gone. Then let fuel dribble from the drain hole on the side of the injection pump for a minute or so to make sure it is also flushed out. Then crack at least two of the injector lines and let it crank until the fuel is just diesel and has no bubbles. Then tighten the fittings up. Put a teaspoon of fuel in the intake, and turn the heaters on for 20 seconds. Then set the engine speed level to mid-span and crank it for up to 30 seconds. If it doesn't start wait a minute, turn the heaters on for 10+ seconds and crank for another 30 seconds. Wait a minute and repeat. I have had to do this for at least 15 minutes on one engine to get all of the air out of the system and the injectors working correctly, and the engine to start.

By the way, I would drain the crappy oil and replace it with a good diesel rated 15w40 before I ran the engine if it were me. And after running it 30 minutes I would change it and the filter again.

Parts can be had from Bill at Valley Parts (Valley Power)

Good luck!

jhnpldng · Feb 28, 2015

Thanks, I actually did end up changing the oil. Cheap stuff for now and I'll change it again as soon as it runs once and warms up. Waiting on a new solenoid and evidently need to get a fuel filter as there was not one in it. &*^% ijits.

davesl708 · Feb 28, 2015

If it did not have a fuel filter might want to run some Power Service 911 though it to clean it out.

jhnpldng · Mar 2, 2015

:dance1:Got her running. Blew through all the lines, put a fuel filter in, drained the tank through the filter, mixed some Power Service into the fuel and put it back in, bled the system, pushed the non stock glow plug button that I discovered for 10 seconds or so and she fired right up. Moved it forward, backward and shut it down until I can go through and get everything right. Seems to have a small rad leak about half way up so I'll probably have to crimp and solder a tube or two. Couldn't get the 3 point to move but not sure if I was hitting the right levers and it was almost dark. But she lives.
:steeringwheel:

ThomasH · Mar 3, 2015

Good deal! Look under the seat and you will see a pivoting lever (about 1 x 3"). It determines the 3 point drop rate, and if is turned in one direction the three point will not move.

jhnpldng · Mar 3, 2015

I did see that lever/knob. Near it is the fill plug. Pulled it and stuck a screwdriver down in it. Pulled it back out and it was brown thick milk shake. Gave it a wiff and it's gear oil. Grrr. Not sure if the milk shake effect is moisture or being mixed with old hyd fluid or a bit of both. Can't totally blame the previous owner as it does say gear oil in the operator's manual. So I've got the wife picking me up a couple of gallons of O"Reilly 303 tractor fluid so I can change it a couple of times. We'll see if that helps. Then I'll change it one more time with some good stuff. The raise/lower lever on the right fender is hard to work. I had to help it with some vise grips down where it comes out the case just get it to move at all. I could hear it trying to lift/do something when I pulled it all the way back. Still won't lower either and it's not all the way down. If one fluid change doesn't do anything I may dissasemble some things and clean them out. As of today, I'll have over $100 in fluids LOL. She's also picking up some good motor oil and a filter. They've got Valvoline 15W-40 Deisel motor oil on sale this month for $12.99/GAL
Started right up this morning without help from a space heater. Ran it for quite a while today and she runs nice and cool. Even after tooling around the yard checking all the gears etc. I pulled the radiator this morning and blew the trash out of the fins. Almost runs too cool so it might not have a thermostat in it. While idling after running it an hour, it measured no more than 140F anywhere externally on the block. Even close to the exhaust manifold.

grainger12002 · Mar 3, 2015

glad its running!!

ThomasH · Mar 3, 2015

jhnpldng said:
I did see that lever/knob. Near it is the fill plug. Pulled it and stuck a screwdriver down in it. Pulled it back out and it was brown thick milk shake. Gave it a wiff and it's gear oil. Grrr. Not sure if the milk shake effect is moisture or being mixed with old hyd fluid or a bit of both. Can't totally blame the previous owner as it does say gear oil in the operator's manual. So I've got the wife picking me up a couple of gallons of O"Reilly 303 tractor fluid so I can change it a couple of times. We'll see if that helps. Then I'll change it one more time with some good stuff. The raise/lower lever on the right fender is hard to work. I had to help it with some vise grips down where it comes out the case just get it to move at all. I could hear it trying to lift/do something when I pulled it all the way back. Still won't lower either and it's not all the way down. If one fluid change doesn't do anything I may dissasemble some things and clean them out. As of today, I'll have over $100 in fluids LOL. She's also picking up some good motor oil and a filter. They've got Valvoline 15W-40 Deisel motor oil on sale this month for $12.99/GAL
Started right up this morning without help from a space heater. Ran it for quite a while today and she runs nice and cool. Even after tooling around the yard checking all the gears etc. I pulled the radiator this morning and blew the trash out of the fins. Almost runs too cool so it might not have a thermostat in it. While idling after running it an hour, it measured no more than 140F anywhere externally on the block. Even close to the exhaust manifold.

Drain the gear oil out and fill the sump with diesel fuel and drive it around for 15 minutes. Then drain it and put 75w90 gear lube in. Hydraulic oil is thinner, and is used if you have a loader but if not, gear lube is much better at lubing the transmission and will work the 3 point lift fine.

Your block temps do seem very cool, I would check to see if there is a thermostat installed. If not, it is best to run one so that it will run upper 100s (180 or so) and develop full power.

PILOON · Mar 3, 2015

Nice tractor, I have one also, MT180D.
I cabbed mine have FEL and mount a snow blower and front plow for winter duties.
I have had it for close to 20 years (1300 hrs) now and no major issues.
The MT180D was a domestic tractor and not a grey.
Also have all manuals so PM me if I can be of help.