New to me Mahindra 3525 - need so help

[sawduster2]

I recently purchased a property that included a 2 WD Mahindra 3525 with 400 hours that is primarily used for brush hogging. I have been trying to service the machine and find the owners manual much to be desired by leaving out some very needed instructions other than "remove" or "reinstall". I have been told that my 3525 is a "Tier 2" model. I need to perform an oil change and primary fuel filter replacement. I have both filters on hand.

Issue #1 - I can't remove the oil dip stick. I don't want to use force until last resort. I shot some penetrating oil on the housing last night and plan to run the motor until it warms up and then try to remove the stick. Does the dip stick have to be rotated to remove? Any suggestions on how to best tackle this situation?

Issue #2 - The tractor has just started running rough & belching smoke when operating at a moderate to fast rpm and I suspect I have some trash in the fuel line. I know better than to run it under these circumstances so it is parked until fixed. I was told by a Mahindra dealer that I need to drain the sediment bowl which is located between the fuel tank and primary filter. I only see a valve and braided fuel line.

The owner's manual doesn't mention a sediment bowl but states to drain the "drain cock" prior to operation to drain off accumulated water. Is the attached photo the "drain cock"? I opened the valve but I didn't get a drip of fuel or water. Should I remove the large nut next to the "handle" to remove the "drain cock" to see if it is clogged?

Issue #3 - When I replace the primary fuel filter (closest to fuel tank), the owner's manual states I need to bleed both primary and secondary fuel filters and remove the fuel line from the tank to the top of the primary filter (banjo fitting) before I back off the nut holding the canister. What is the purpose of removing the fuel line? Seems that the open fuel line could gather contaminates. Also, will I drain the fuel tank as long as the fuel line or filter housing is "open"?

Any advise or experience you can share is greatly appreciated.

Sawduster2 in Virginia

 

[burzynsr]

You must unscrew the dip stick, the picture you posted is the fuel shut off valve. You should just ask a dealer about the filter change as I am not familiar with your fuel line and filters. Yes you have a Tier 2 machine, meaning you don't have a bunch of electronic controls and mandated pollution junk.

 

[sawduster2]

Thanks for your reply! I will try to twist the filter with some gentle force (I had nothing but resistance when I tried by hand prior to posting my note).

An additional request to the forum - how helpful is the Mahindra Service Manual? If it is poorly written as the Owner's Manual I won't waste $120. If anyone has a manual for the 3525 I would be curious to see how much detail they have on removing and servicing the two stage air filter. The owner's manual and Mahindra parts schematic differ in the number of parts in the assembly. The owner's manual doesn't mention (or display) a "washer sealing air cleaner" gasket (part #9) and the parts schematic shows the rubber ring gasket the same diameter as the canister but in reality it is only about 3" in diameter and evidently slips over the bottom of the tube of the upper canister after inserting the paper filter and upper basket. If the Service Manual has a clear description of the proper assembly of the air filter it would have been worth the $120!

I really appreciate this forum and thank in advance anyone reading and/or responding to this and future postings.

 

[Navasot]

The older India tractors have pretty well taken service manuals I don't think you would have much trouble with a 25 series just be sure you know your S# because there were a few differen variations of the 35.

Your on the right track with the fuel.. take that whole shut off asmbley out of the tank.. not the bottom nut but the furthest up the pitcok... clean the shut off out but mainly I bet you will just trickle fuel out of the tank and the main clog will be there... you will need some wire to shove up the tank to break everything loose and get a good flow... you will get fuel everywere just so your prepared.. also you will need some type of cooper toner or new copper washers when to reseal the banjo bolt.. it will have one on each side of the banjo...

With the air filter it can be a pain but actually is a very efficient system. Id recommend unbolting the whole assembly for cleaning.. it just makes it easier to get back sealed correctly. But you can very well do it on the tractor.. there is first the oil bath.. you will turn the seat screw for the band back and get it off the bottom. clean this well... then you have the first metal mesh filter.. this you can also clean with brake cleaner or something similar that dries itself... then the hard part is getting the second mesh fitler out above it... you will need some type of puller to carefully get it out along with the gasket that you will take out before it. clean this with cleaner also and above this your element filter will drop out... im betting it will hardly be black since these systems filtered so well... I usually just take the first metal mesh out clean it and replace the oil bath with clean oil on services unless its been a long time or been treated rough.