New ROPS & Lights Powered from Turn Signal Switch?

[Cold Camel]

My 1110D had the Turn signals removed but the wiring is still in place. I plan to mount lights on my ROPS (not installed yet) powered through my turn signal wires and switch. Questions:

How much juice can the weakest component handle?
What components are weak (alternator, switch)?
Any quick upgrades?
Suggestions on locally available bulbs and brackets? Fog or spot, bulb type, maximum draw, that sort of thing.

Cold Camel

 

[reb]

You should measure the wire gauge to ensure it is adequate for whatever lights you choose. The turn signal switch might not be rated for the higher current your new lights might require, also. I would assume it is rated for the same current as the wire, just to be safe. If your alternator is similar to mine (YM1500) it probably won't support the lights and charge the battery at the same time. That means the battery might discharge after a while with the lights on.

Here is a link to wire sizes and current ratings:

American Wire Gauge, AWG Cable Size Description for Copper Wire Cable

 

[dfkrug]

Fog or spot, bulb type, maximum draw, that sort of thing.

I use my turn signal switch on my Kioti to power my ROPS-mounted
worklights. Each of my halogen lights draws 55W of power, which makes
the wires handle just under 6A. I use automotive fog lights, but big
PIAA units, one pointed forward, one rearward. I also use relays on
an AUX fused circuit. You can get nice fog lights and relays at your
local auto supply. I also run 16 guage wires to each light, both hot and
ground.

I like using the turn signal switches since I don't have to add other
holes in my panel, and I would never use turn signals on a tractor.
One of my worklights is brighter than both of my stock headlights.

 

[Cold Camel]

Perfect advice. Now I'm ready to go.