New Rims and Tires for Kubota L4240

[bighammer]

I bought a new Kubota L4240 from our local dealer a few years back. I had them load the rears and after about a year and not being kept in the garage a few times, I noticed the tires were "bleeding" chloride solution thru the sidewalls. I put the valve at 12 o'clock and drained multiple 5 gallon buckets from each. Some idiot must have laid the wheel flat and loaded 100% with no expansion airspace.

Dealer was no help at all, saying tires not covered under warranty. (needless to say, I won't be buying anything from Ginop's ever again ) After searching for a bit online, I found a deal on a pair of 17.5 x 24 rears and ordered them. Now I'm looking at the rust on these rims and thinking I'd need to drain them, dismount the tires, then haul them off for sandblasting and painting or powdercoating, and probably be without a tractor for at least a couple weeks. I'm leaning towards just buying new rims.

Any tips on places to get them from and are all 15x24" 6 loop rims interchangeable?

 

[bighammer]

Sort of thinking about just ordering a pair of these:




John Deere Rim, 15" x 24", Rear - NEW | Worthington Ag Parts

 

[BrokenTrack]

I had that happen on my Kubota, and just took some steel and welded up my rims where it was leaking around the valve stems. My price was $20 instead of the $2000 the dealer quoted me. That was at least 10 years ago, so longevity has not been an issue.

I have also stopped putting in fluid in the tires. I found it is just not worth it. I use my tractor a lot in my gravel pit, and if I can get by without fluid in the tires, anyone can. It does not really do that much in tires anyway, because the real trick in adding ballast is to get the weight BEYOND the rear axle. I think adding liquid ballast was one of those things that was done years ago, and people still do it today just because that is the way it has always been done, but when looking at it from a physics point of view, it just does not make sense. And I know from an experience point of view I get just as much done on air as I ever did on liquid ballast.

 

[TractorGuy]

Take a look at this guys store. https://www.ebay.com/str/diamondttires

If you don't see what you need you could try contacting him. I got a great deal on the rears for my JD and have found great deals for others through him.

 

[ruffdog]

Deere tires/wheels:

TWO New 17.5x24 R4 John Deere,Kubota Backhoe Tires w/8 on 8 Hole Wheels | eBay

 

[bighammer]

Already bought brand new rubber. The ribs on these new ones seem like a much better design that my tire chains won't just settle in between them.

 

[BrokenTrack]

Already bought brand new rubber. The ribs on these new ones seem like a much better design that my tire chains won't just settle in between them.

What are you running for tire chains?

I assume by your description standard ladder type of chains?

Diamond, or double-diamond lay over the tire treads better. You have to cinch them down better or in severe torque situations the tire will spin inside the chain, but unless you are really pulling, that does not happen a whole lot. The previous owner on my Cat 225 did not tighten the chains and wore the tires out right underneath the chains, but that was always pulling severe loads granted. Tire replacement would cost more than what the tractor was worth!! Still it was sheer laziness not to tighten the chains.

In any case, I am not saying go out and buy new chains; gracious they are expensive and last quite awhile, but chain type does make a difference. I am just noting that a person can change the tires to make the chains fit better, but they can also change the type of chain to fit the tire better too.

I run ladder ice chains on some tractors, and double diamond ice chains on others.