new lawn timing, S.Carolina

[BrettW]

Here is what I need to do.
Kill everything in my yard (field) and get a lawn happening. It is currently all red clay, Ken 51 and weeds. I need to know about timing it all. This is near Charlotte NC so I'm planning on a Fall planting.
Should I kill everything, till it, re kill it, then plant it? How much time should I allow for all this? I'll also need to grade it with my tractor before planting? Start now? Land is mostly flat, thanks, brett w

 

[Golfgar4]

Brett,

I can't really answer your questions with anything specific. Generally speaking, the fall is a good time to get a new lawn started. If I were doing it here in Wisconsin (just a slightly different climate /forums/images/graemlins/smirk.gif), I'd be killing off the grasses/weeds in mid to late August, allowing for a good week between 2 different applications. Then I'd get it all tilled/rolled over and do 1 more killing application. Wait a week and then grade/smooth and seed. This would put me into mid September, which would provide a good month and half or two months of growing time in a good, moist time period. Then you hope for the best! /forums/images/graemlins/tongue.gif

Also, I think you get a better response if you post this in the Rural forum. I think more people will see it there. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Good luck!

 

[BrettW]

mid to late Aug seems really late to me for your area, but hot weather will kill new grass, thanks, bw

 

[MarkV]

Brett, I would talk with the local county extension service and decide what type of grass you want to plant. Some Southern grasses want to be planted in the Spring and some in the Fall. Also get a soil test and start amending the soil now. Almost everyplace down South needs some amount of lime which can be applied any time of the year. It is pretty much too late to get something going at this point that will survive the summer heat.

MarkV

 

[jsouth85]

Where exactly are you? I'm between Rock Hill and York SC. Sounds like you have the same soil as I do. If you have any grass in the yard now I would recommend you spray the weeds in mid August and then again about 7-10 days layer. Then run a plug aerator over it several times to loosen up the soil as much as you can. Take a soil sample to the Clemson Extension agent and follow their recommendations. You'll probably need to add lots of lime based on the analysis I had last year on my yard. I would then sow Rebel II or Rebel III type seed because they are more drought tolerant than normal fescue grass. You'll want to sow between mid Sept. and mid Oct. for best results. Don't forget to fertilize with a good slow release urea coated fertilizer. This can be applied with the lime since you'll be spreading anyway. You can add fertilizer through the winter up until early spring. The last application should include a preemergent crabgrass preventer. I hope this helps and good luck.

 

[BrettW]

jsouth,
Hi, I'm in the Clover/ Lake Wylie area, York Co. Yep, solid red clay/mud here so I'll take your advise. Problem is I'm looking for a "yard" look so I'm going to be grading my 2 acres with a box, tiller, landscape rake. I plan to kill all the veg soon. Got to get a little sprayer unit. I tried it with the 1.5 gal hand held sprayer and that was a joke.
Already have Reb 3 in the garage waiting for cooler weather.
Do you know of any liquid pre-emergents? I don't have a spreader for my tractor.
thanks, Brett W

 

[jsouth85]

Brett,
The pre-emmergents that I know of are oryzalin (Surflan is the trade name), pendemethalin (pendulum) and prodiamine (Barricade). All these are very similair products. They can be applied with a pump sprayer or hose end sprayer. The only thing I would caution you on is don't use this product until you have planted your lawn and have a fair stand of grass. Pre emergents keep seeds from germinating and could prevent the germination of some grasses. Usually they are used on established lawns to prevent unwanted weed seeds that have traveled into a lawn from germinating. The pre emergent I was referring to is granular and is applied with a spreader and is appllied in March to keep crabgrass from growing. If you don't have a spreader you can use one from the local feed and seed stores. They usually have you make a deposit and then refund it when you return. Good luck with your lawn.
jsouth

 

[BrettW]

jsouth,
I got a little 26 gal sprayer today at N Tool, just off 77. I plan to wipe out all grass/ weeds this week. Move the dirt a bit and let more seeds sprout, then spray again.
thanks, BrettW