New L3301 - TNT lines too short

[12BravoEng]

Been a bit from my last post.

To make a long story short, I picked up the L3301 from Barlow's on a PCS cross-country to Colorado Springs.

Arrived and the tractor has been put to good use in the last 10 days.

I went to put on the TNT cylinders yesterday, but the lines are quite a bit too short. The rear hydraulic ports were mounted over the right rear wheel fender - likely due to also having the BH77. I've dropped the backhoe for now and flipped the mounting bracket for the ports inboard and lower to at least get me working.

I'm sure it's a trivial thing for most to add new hydraulic lines to the two TNT cylinders, however - it's is new ground for me. I was at tractor supply and saw they have "prebuilt" hydraulic lines. What is the best bet here? Buy raw materials and tools, buy the prebuilt lines, or take the cylinders someplace to have new hoses put on?

Lastly (and perhaps even more ignorantly), the rear remotes have two controls; one that spring returns to center as soon as you release it, and one that stays at the forward and\or rear position until the limit of travel of the cylinder is complete, then it pops back to center. I think it may be user preference regarding which valve operates what cylinder, but what might be best practice?

Thanks for the help.

- JBD

* Regardless of the short lines to the remotes, Barlow's price and help with my, somewhat difficult and changing requirements and timelines, was pretty amazing.

 

[Fallon]

Been a bit from my last post.

To make a long story short, I picked up the L3301 from Barlow's on a PCS cross-country to Colorado Springs.

Arrived and the tractor has been put to good use in the last 10 days.

I went to put on the TNT cylinders yesterday, but the lines are quite a bit too short. The rear hydraulic ports were mounted over the right rear wheel fender - likely due to also having the BH77. I've dropped the backhoe for now and flipped the mounting bracket for the ports inboard and lower to at least get me working.

I'm sure it's a trivial thing for most to add new hydraulic lines to the two TNT cylinders, however - it's is new ground for me. I was at tractor supply and saw they have "prebuilt" hydraulic lines. What is the best bet here? Buy raw materials and tools, buy the prebuilt lines, or take the cylinders someplace to have new hoses put on?

Lastly (and perhaps even more ignorantly), the rear remotes have two controls; one that spring returns to center as soon as you release it, and one that stays at the forward and\or rear position until the limit of travel of the cylinder is complete, then it pops back to center. I think it may be user preference regarding which valve operates what cylinder, but what might be best practice?

Thanks for the help.

- JBD

* Regardless of the short lines to the remotes, Barlow's price and help with my, somewhat difficult and changing requirements and timelines, was pretty amazing.

Good luck, I fought to long & to short hoses for TnT on my L3200 custom setup. It takes some careful measuring & routing. Lots of places around will build custom hoses. Some Napa stores do (Elizabeth does, Parker doesn't), call some auto parts stores in the Springs or find a hydraulic shop. Just figure out what fittings are on the ends and/or bring the old hoses in. Farm store hoses are fine... If you need a standard length with NPT fittings on each end. Other fittings, angles, lengths or strengths need something custom. Not a big deal either way.

As long as they are rated to take 2,500psi any hoses will work for TnT. Actually the smaller the better, most people put restrictors in place to slow things down.

It's doesn't sound like you have float (only detents in one direction & let's the cylinder extend it retract at will based on gravity or whatever). You want float on your toplink & sidelink if possible, but it's just a nice to have, not critical. Your detented valves will do minimal good on TnT, but won't cause any harm. I'd put your TnT on the un-detented valves.

For the non-military types... PCS = Permenant Change of Station... a.k.a. moving.

 

[David_Kb7uns]

Best solution is to spend the money and have a shop make up the hoses, less hassle if you just put extensions on.

Although I had to do longer hoses for my grapples on the loader and I just had female to male extensions made and put them in the area where all the flexing occurs and when that section goes it will just be a short hose instead of going all the way up the loader boom to the valve.

David

 

[s219]

You can order custom hoses from Discount Hydraulic Hose -- get exactly what you need with the length and fittings desired.

The stock mounting position of the Kubota remote hookups is over the right fender. There really isn't enough room to have it inside the fender, at least not without interfering with many implements when you raise them on the hitch. So I wouldn't change that arrangement without careful testing.

For the top link on my L3200 (same tractor but previous generation of your L3301), I got hoses that were 5'6" and 6'2". The hoses run from the quick connects, across the toolbox bar behind the seat, and then loop around to the top link.

You can see the hose routing for the top link here:



For my side link, I used two 5'6" hoses. No good photo of that, but they just dangle down from the quick connects to the side link with a single loop twisted in to manage slack. The side link moves up/down with the 3-pt arms and needs a fair amount of slack to cover the range of motion.

 

[diesel85]

I have lots of heavy duty truck shops in my area, along with 2 Kubota dealers within a close distance. I have replaced all of my hoses with quality aftermarket hoses that were hand made.

With that being said, the price difference is huge, and it only take minutes for them to make them -- any size you want!

The quality from the Kubota to the aftermarket hoses are substantial. The aftermarket hoses are made for abuse.