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New Holland TN75 Steering Cylinder Seals Question…

   / New Holland TN75 Steering Cylinder Seals Question… #21  
There is no tool for that purpose. The seal probably sheared off because the very end of the shaft doesn't have enough of a tapered edge for the seal lip to slide over without catching. I look for that taper before installing the gland. If it's not what I like to see I grind/polish a little onto it until it has enough.

As for removing the mounting pin, that could be a project. If you can't break it loose by forcing it to turn first, you might consider changing your strategy. Go back and fix the cylinder correctly, then return the replacement.
 
   / New Holland TN75 Steering Cylinder Seals Question… #22  
Agree with Harry on the pin. I've had problem getting the outside pin out and had to torch it out. The inside pin gives you no room to work. Repacking the cylinder would still be the best choice.
 
   / New Holland TN75 Steering Cylinder Seals Question…
  • Thread Starter
#23  
Finally got it out. Kept putting Kroil. Then heat. Then Kroil again. Then an open end 1-3/8 wrench with a 4 ft pipe for leverage on the flange of the pin until it finally started to turn. Then used a 5/8 bolt and coupler as a press. Kept tapping the bolt head back onto the center of the pin after every couple wrenching on the 5/8 bolt head. 3/4 or bigger might’ve worked better, but it’s what I had on hand. Once the pin was flush, I put a small crow bar between the pin flange and the boss the pin goes through. Kept turning the pin back and forth with the 1-3/8 wrench in one hand while pushing down on the crowbar. Once the pin was a half-inch below flush, I got a 7/16” x 3-1/2” bolt and coupler and did the press thing again, but with the coupler on the pin and the head of the bolt up against the frame above the pin. Held the bolt head with a 5/8 wrench and cranked the coupler, pushing the pin down. Once the coupler was in far enough that I couldn’t wrench it anymore, I cranked back the other way to shorten the “bolt/coupler press” enough to pull it out of the hole. Then put a short 9/16” socket down in the hole and put the “bolt/coupler press” back in and started cranking again. Kept cranking until the pin was far enough down that I could pull the steering cylinder out. Then went back to turning the flange of the pin back and forth while pulling down on the flange with the small crowbar until it was free. What a pain the keester. But it’s finally out! 🤠
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