New Holland newbie, backhoe attachment et al

[provobis8]

A year ago I bought a NH TC45DA with 758C backhoe and front loader attached. I moved to my new property (from the city) which requires the NH equipment, directly from the hospital and believe it or not I have been busy to date digging and moving dirt. Have not even had a chance to think about the Woods brushbull that I also bought, until now.

When I bought this equipment the dealer told this city slicker that the "three point" attachment features would make all dismounts and mounts a five minute job. Looking at how the 758C attaches to the TC45, I don't think so, because unless I'm blind and really stupid I see six bolts (three on either side) and one master hydraulic hose going to the hidden backhoe hydraulics distributuion area. So it would appear that this is a SIX (not 3) point mount and there's no five minute job to dismount the backhoe and mount the brush hog, and I would need at least 3/4-1 inch drive sockets to remove six massive bolts, and then remove the hydraulic hose from the TC45 coupling after relieving any pressure.

I need advice! To say the least! First, am I correct about the six mounting bolts (that NH calls "pins") as well as the sockets to remove the nuts? Then, am I right about the ONE master hydraulic hose which connects the TC45 to the backhoe hydraulics? Then, since NH says to "connect hydraulic lines to tractor" (after disconnecting from backhoe), lines is plural and it would appear that there's only one hose to disconnect, and where does one "connect" to the tractor after disconneting from the backhoe? I see no empty coupler on the tractor that I could join with the disconnected hydraulic hose (for what I assume should complete a closed hydraulic system.

 

[provobis8]

A year ago I bought a NH TC45DA with 758C backhoe and front loader attached. I moved to my new property (from the city) which requires the NH equipment, directly from the hospital and believe it or not I have been busy to date digging and moving dirt. Have not even had a chance to think about the Woods brushbull that I also bought, until now.

When I bought this equipment the dealer told this city slicker that the "three point" attachment features would make all dismounts and mounts a five minute job. Looking at how the 758C attaches to the TC45, I don't think so, because unless I'm blind and really stupid I see six bolts (three on either side) and one master hydraulic hose going to the hidden backhoe hydraulics distributuion area. So it would appear that this is a SIX (not 3) point mount and there's no five minute job to dismount the backhoe and mount the brush hog, and I would need at least 3/4-1 inch drive sockets to remove six massive bolts, and then remove the hydraulic hose from the TC45 coupling after relieving any pressure.

I need advice! To say the least! First, am I correct about the six mounting bolts (that NH calls "pins") as well as the sockets to remove the nuts? Then, am I right about the ONE master hydraulic hose which connects the TC45 to the backhoe hydraulics? Then, since NH says to "connect hydraulic lines to tractor" (after disconnecting from backhoe), lines is plural and it would appear that there's only one hose to disconnect, and where does one "connect" to the tractor after disconneting from the backhoe? I see no empty coupler on the tractor that I could join with the disconnected hydraulic hose (for what I assume should complete a closed hydraulic system.

 

[PineRidge]

Sounds to me as though you have a sub-frame mounted BH. If that's the case no tools are needed to remove the BH from the Class III machine. Did you not get any books with the machine covering the BH's removal?

 

[PineRidge]

Sounds to me as though you have a sub-frame mounted BH. If that's the case no tools are needed to remove the BH from the Class III machine. Did you not get any books with the machine covering the BH's removal?

 

[DK35vince]

Like Mike said, no tools should be needed to remove the backhoe.
On that machine I believe the subframe stays bolted to the backhoe and the entire subframe comes off with the backhoe to remove it.

 

[DK35vince]

Like Mike said, no tools should be needed to remove the backhoe.
On that machine I believe the subframe stays bolted to the backhoe and the entire subframe comes off with the backhoe to remove it.

 

[bmac]

I have a TC 29D with a 756C subframe mounted BH. I have only removed and re-mounted the BH on one occasion. It took me longer than 5 minutes, I can assure you. Having said that, however, I do think that with practice it should not bee too difficult.

Now, it has been a long time since I removed my BH, so I won't try to give you a step-by-step tutorial because I would have to find my manual and refresh my memory. But generally speaking, there are only 2 pins to remove. They hold the BH to the subframe (which is bolted on to the tractor and may be the 6 bolts you are seeing) at the front of the tractor. There is a channel or lip that I think is located behind the rear axel of the tractor that hold most of the weight of the BH. Again, the only pins to remove are the 2 pins are at the front of the tractor.

Now, there is a series of steps you take to position the outriggers and bucket whereby they support the weight of the BH during the removal and remounting of the BH. I can't remember the specifics now, but it is described in the manual. Once you have done that, you remove the 2 pins. Then, again by manipulating the BH controllers you get the portion of the BH frame that you just removed the 2 pins from to drop toward the ground a little. Once the frame of the BH will clear the underside of the tractor, you SLOWLY move the tractor forward a little. This allows the channel or lip to disengage, thus freeing the BH from the tractor, except for the hydraulic connection. You then manipulate the bucket / outriggers so that the pin end of the BH frame is on the ground. At this point, the BH is supported by the pin end on the BH frame on one end, by the bucket on the other end and by the 2 outrigger feet. Now, you disconnect the hydraulic line and drive the tractor forward to clear the BH.

The quick disconnect that you just unplugged now gets plugged back into the 3 PH valve which is on the right side of the tractor, under the hydraulic lines that go to the FEL. There is a screw on the side of this valve that you now must turn about 1/4 turn to regain the use of the 3PH, if I'm remembering correctly.

Now, one tip I will offer is that you will find this to be much easier if you can do it on a level (preferably concrete) surface. I did it in my back yard and it was a bear to reattach the BH. Another tip is to post this in the NH forum. There, you will get a better (and more accurate) description of how to do this. And, finally, if you search this forum, you will find descriptions of dollys that some very clever TBNers have made for their BH that makes removal and reattachment very easy. Still, might be more than 5 minutes.

Not to discourage you, but I found hooking up the bushhog to be almost as challenging as reattaching the BH. But, then again, I'm no mechanical whiz. Good luck.

BTW, let me know if you want me to post a picture of how my hydraulic line re attaches after BH removal.

 

[bmac]

I have a TC 29D with a 756C subframe mounted BH. I have only removed and re-mounted the BH on one occasion. It took me longer than 5 minutes, I can assure you. Having said that, however, I do think that with practice it should not bee too difficult.

Now, it has been a long time since I removed my BH, so I won't try to give you a step-by-step tutorial because I would have to find my manual and refresh my memory. But generally speaking, there are only 2 pins to remove. They hold the BH to the subframe (which is bolted on to the tractor and may be the 6 bolts you are seeing) at the front of the tractor. There is a channel or lip that I think is located behind the rear axel of the tractor that hold most of the weight of the BH. Again, the only pins to remove are the 2 pins are at the front of the tractor.

Now, there is a series of steps you take to position the outriggers and bucket whereby they support the weight of the BH during the removal and remounting of the BH. I can't remember the specifics now, but it is described in the manual. Once you have done that, you remove the 2 pins. Then, again by manipulating the BH controllers you get the portion of the BH frame that you just removed the 2 pins from to drop toward the ground a little. Once the frame of the BH will clear the underside of the tractor, you SLOWLY move the tractor forward a little. This allows the channel or lip to disengage, thus freeing the BH from the tractor, except for the hydraulic connection. You then manipulate the bucket / outriggers so that the pin end of the BH frame is on the ground. At this point, the BH is supported by the pin end on the BH frame on one end, by the bucket on the other end and by the 2 outrigger feet. Now, you disconnect the hydraulic line and drive the tractor forward to clear the BH.

The quick disconnect that you just unplugged now gets plugged back into the 3 PH valve which is on the right side of the tractor, under the hydraulic lines that go to the FEL. There is a screw on the side of this valve that you now must turn about 1/4 turn to regain the use of the 3PH, if I'm remembering correctly.

Now, one tip I will offer is that you will find this to be much easier if you can do it on a level (preferably concrete) surface. I did it in my back yard and it was a bear to reattach the BH. Another tip is to post this in the NH forum. There, you will get a better (and more accurate) description of how to do this. And, finally, if you search this forum, you will find descriptions of dollys that some very clever TBNers have made for their BH that makes removal and reattachment very easy. Still, might be more than 5 minutes.

Not to discourage you, but I found hooking up the bushhog to be almost as challenging as reattaching the BH. But, then again, I'm no mechanical whiz. Good luck.

BTW, let me know if you want me to post a picture of how my hydraulic line re attaches after BH removal.

 

[provobis8]

Thanks for the three comeback guys, I have a lot to learn and can use all the advice I can get. I guess I am blind and stupid because I just did not see the detail of what you all are telling me, will have to craul under and take a better look as I was only looking where the BH is bolted to the SF.

The BH op manual is pretty brief, but it seems to confirm what you are saying, and refers to "swing lock pin, pins that secure BH to tractor, hydraulic lines, and blocking that the BH SF rests on. So evidently those bolts are never removed, permanently fastening the BH to the SF.

I think you're right about mounting the brush hog too, as that op manual has more details as well as adjustment. Looks like I'll have to make sure that I have a firm, level surface. Let you know.

 

[provobis8]

Thanks for the three comeback guys, I have a lot to learn and can use all the advice I can get. I guess I am blind and stupid because I just did not see the detail of what you all are telling me, will have to craul under and take a better look as I was only looking where the BH is bolted to the SF.

The BH op manual is pretty brief, but it seems to confirm what you are saying, and refers to "swing lock pin, pins that secure BH to tractor, hydraulic lines, and blocking that the BH SF rests on. So evidently those bolts are never removed, permanently fastening the BH to the SF.

I think you're right about mounting the brush hog too, as that op manual has more details as well as adjustment. Looks like I'll have to make sure that I have a firm, level surface. Let you know.