New Holland Battery Question

[BarryBolio]

I have a New Holland Boomer TC and boy do I wish I was a mechanic. Battery has crapped out, went to auto parts store to replace 12V battery and they did not have one identical, sold me one that had similar specs. Hooked it up and nothing. Do I need to find the exact replacement or can a similar sized battery work. If battery is good, what could my trouble be?

 

[WranglerX]

Any battery with similar specifications SHOULD be ok... Most size spec's (H-W-D) are to fit battery holder/box, main issue would be Cold & Hot cranking amps, if all similar either they sold you bad battery, or it is hooked up wrong (maybe backwards) or poor connection (bad battery cable) or you have other issues in electrical system...

Dale

 

[Wagtail]

DL Meisen has the right of it, especially if the new battery matches the 'cranking amps'.

I'd start with the simple stuff first... check your fuses and the battery cables. The cables may look OK (by observation) but corrosion/vibration under the insulation may be the culprit.

Good luck and please report back. :thumbsup:

 

[mikester]

DL Meisen has the right of it, especially if the new battery matches the 'cranking amps'.

I'd start with the simple stuff first... check your fuses and the battery cables. The cables may look OK (by observation) but corrosion/vibration under the insulation may be the culprit.

Good luck and please report back. :thumbsup:

Check your seat operator presence and fwd/rev gear selector switches first. Sometimes you think its in neutral but the switch doesn't agree.

 

[Gary Fowler]

I just replace batteries with a similar size and series number with same or higher cold cranking amps. Check that the + and - terminals are on the same end as the original. Other than those 2 things, there is not much difference in batteries other than warranty periods. I used to use the Walmart batteries, but recently have switched to the NAPA batteries. They seem to last a bit longer than the Everstart Walmart batteries.

If a new battery didn't start your tractor, then it is possible that your old battery was still good. It is likely one of the 4-5 safety switches that has you locked out rather than a bad battery. Check operator presence seat safety, PTO engagement, If HST then pedal is in neutral, Clutch depressed for gear drive, transmission gear shift in neutral (required on some tractors). I would bet it is one of those switches that has you locked out of the starter, either the switch has failed or you have something engaged.

 

[WranglerX]

Yeah on safety switches... My GC 1715 has at least 3 safety switches if even one is accidentally in wrong position...NOTHING..... Other issue may be not switch itself but maybe connector to switch may have come off or wire broken.... IF lights and accessory power (radio or sprayer pump power) is good it is probably a switch or wiring issue in "engine run" circuit... I waste more time puting levers back into "neutral" some I don't even know I have moved (gremlins)...

Check ...

PTO Neutral Switch
Seat Safety Switch
Transmission Neutral Switch

These are the three that cause me most grief...

Dale

 

[Jerry/MT]

I have a New Holland Boomer TC and boy do I wish I was a mechanic. Battery has crapped out, went to auto parts store to replace 12V battery and they did not have one identical, sold me one that had similar specs. Hooked it up and nothing. Do I need to find the exact replacement or can a similar sized battery work. If battery is good, what could my trouble be?

How did you determine that your battery was shot?

You do know that there are several electrical interlock switches that have to be closed to get current to the starter solenoid to actuate the starter don't you? Any one or more could be open and your engine won't turn over. You could also have corroded battery terminals or a bad chasis ground, bad battery cables, loose connections, etc. You should analyze these possibilities before you assume the battery is shot. A $10 VOM can verify voltage to the starter solenoid. Checking the battery ground connection on the chasis for corrosion and tightness is a visual check. You don't have to be a mechanic to do this learn a little more about your tractor and use this forum to do some checks before you start throwing parts at it. Tractor parts are expensive and you need to develop a few rudimentary diagnostic skills to help you maintain your tractor in running condition. Very often this problems are very simple to fix, like a loose connection or damaged wire.