New Garden Plowing Advice

[dls21962]

I have a JD 2520 on the way and should be here in the next week or so and I will be racing to get a new garden started this year (probably large enough for about 6-8 50 ft long rows). I have my dad's walk-behind tiller I can use and was about to order a one bottom plow from Everything Attachments to get the ground started (after I brush hog it) and follow up with the tiller to break it up. Then I found this on Craig's list:

2 bottom plow

and was wondering if the 2520 could handle a two-bottom plow like this? It would definitely save me a little money over a new one - but not if it breaks my new tractor when I hit a big rock or if I can't use it because the 2520 with R-4s just sits and spins its wheels because it can't pull it. Rocks (large ones) are a probability on my property. My plan was to go very, very slowly. From what I've read, I'm expecting that the 2520 will spin it's R-4 tires (not planning to fill them w/liquid - at least to start) before anything gets bent. The new bottom plow also has a shear pin just in case. Should I expect this old plow to have a shear pin?

I am new to tractors in general and any advice would be greatly appreciated for getting this garden started. Thanks in advance.

 

[bp fick]

I have a JD 2520 on the way and should be here in the next week or so and I will be racing to get a new garden started this year (probably large enough for about 6-8 50 ft long rows). I have my dad's walk-behind tiller I can use and was about to order a one bottom plow from Everything Attachments to get the ground started (after I brush hog it) and follow up with the tiller to break it up. Then I found this on Craig's list:

2 bottom plow

and was wondering if the 2520 could handle a two-bottom plow like this? It would definitely save me a little money over a new one - but not if it breaks my new tractor when I hit a big rock or if I can't use it because the 2520 with R-4s just sits and spins its wheels because it can't pull it. Rocks (large ones) are a probability on my property. My plan was to go very, very slowly. From what I've read, I'm expecting that the 2520 will spin it's R-4 tires (not planning to fill them w/liquid - at least to start) before anything gets bent. The new bottom plow also has a shear pin just in case. Should I expect this old plow to have a shear pin?

I am new to tractors in general and any advice would be greatly appreciated for getting this garden started. Thanks in advance.

A turning plow is nice, and please don't take this wrong, but 6-8 rows wide is only 50' and you said 50' long. A small patch like that can easily be ripped up with a $130 middle buster and then the walk behind tiller will make quick work of what is left. I know, you want to use your tractor.

A rear PTO tiller would be even sweeter, but the price is hard to swallow, unless you can plan on making multiple gardens for a few folks.

That Dearborn plow would also be a lot of fun, but sometimes, the parts are worn out and no longer available. Don't know about that one. We have a few implement dealers who post here that might comment on the photo of it.

 

[dls21962]

Hi. Thanks for the input and for the info you've posted on here about using a middle buster to start a garden. That was actually what really got me excited about getting a garden started right away (without spending $2k for a tractor tiller) since I was planning to get a tractor anyway for other tasks. I was going to give the middle buster a try but then saw a video on Everything Attachments with the one bottom plow and it looked like it could do what I needed in one pass (not that multiple passes are a bad thing when you've got a new tractor) but would also make for easier tilling afterwards than the middle buster. The plow is $499 new which is still pretty easy on the budget - but $130 is easier yet. Maybe I should just give the middle buster a try. Do you think there will be any appreciable difference in ease of tilling with the walk-behind tiller after multiple passes with the middle buster vs. a plow?

 

[SandburRanch]

Maybe you could remove the back moldboard from the Dearborn and make a one bottom if your tractor won't pull a 2 bottom. Either way you will need to use some 80 grit sandpaper to make the moldboard and share shine before attempting to plow.

 

[bp fick]

A turning plow beats a middle buster because it flips the sod over in just one direction. A MB is dividing it. After year one, there isn't as much difference, as the soil has tilth and should be free of sod.

If the ground your looking at is soddy, and if you're in a hurry to plant, plowing, either way, isn't the right thing this year. It takes a month or better to break down that sod. Having done it last fall, it has a chance over winter to die out a bit.

Is the ground soddy right now?

 

[dls21962]

Yes, the ground is definitely soddy. It is on a relatively level spot near the bottom of a moderate slope (right before it drops into a creek bed) that is basically open pasture - I've just been letting the people I bought the land from continue to make hay from it. As far as I know, this will be the first time it has been tilled or anything. I'm not expecting great results this year but thought I may as well get started and get some practice.

 

[Molerj]

If you plow it, it will be a real chore to run the tiller thru it afterwards unles you have someone run a disc over it. That tiller will be jumping all over the place. If you have a good walk behind tiller like the old troy bilts then going down one notch at a time you can till it up, it will just take a while. Ideally, the best way is to have someone run there tractor tiller through it. It will chop up the sod & after a few passes the soil will be real fine. Then you can manage it from here on with your rear tine tiller. ---Ron

 

[Jstpssng]

If you plow it, it will be a real chore to run the tiller thru it afterwards unles you have someone run a disc over it. That tiller will be jumping all over the place. If you have a good walk behind tiller like the old troy bilts then going down one notch at a time you can till it up, it will just take a while. Ideally, the best way is to have someone run there tractor tiller through it. It will chop up the sod & after a few passes the soil will be real fine. Then you can manage it from here on with your rear tine tiller. ---Ron

I like to make a light pass with my Troybilt, rake the loose sod off,drop it a notch, and go over it again, until all the sod is gone. I've put in several gardens that way and it sure cuts down on the weeding.

 

[heehaw]

seems like the 4ft, 3pt tiller from tractor supply, king kutter or whatever they are calling them now, is around $1k: you could make a bunch of passes with a middle buster, then till it with no problem with the KK..
heehaw

 

[goldenwings]

I have a JD 2520 on the way and should be here in the next week or so and I will be racing to get a new garden started this year (probably large enough for about 6-8 50 ft long rows). I have my dad's walk-behind tiller I can use and was about to order a one bottom plow from Everything Attachments to get the ground started (after I brush hog it) and follow up with the tiller to break it up. Then I found this on Craig's list:

2 bottom plow

and was wondering if the 2520 could handle a two-bottom plow like this? It would definitely save me a little money over a new one - but not if it breaks my new tractor when I hit a big rock or if I can't use it because the 2520 with R-4s just sits and spins its wheels because it can't pull it. Rocks (large ones) are a probability on my property. My plan was to go very, very slowly. From what I've read, I'm expecting that the 2520 will spin it's R-4 tires (not planning to fill them w/liquid - at least to start) before anything gets bent. The new bottom plow also has a shear pin just in case. Should I expect this old plow to have a shear pin?

I am new to tractors in general and any advice would be greatly appreciated for getting this garden started. Thanks in advance.

When I purchased my property, the previous owner left a drawbar/wheeled type 2 bottom plow. I have a 2520, with the loader mounted, ballast box attached the tractor would not keep traction well enough to go more than 10 feet at a time. This was through rock free soil, so in my opinion you will most likely just end up spinning your wheels. I ended up going with a 5' KK tiller, the price was a little tough, and it took a couple of extra years to save up the funds, but well worth it in the end.