Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday

   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday #1  

EricBX2200

Bronze Member
Joined
May 1, 2004
Messages
52
Location
Essex, IL
Tractor
Kubota BX2200
Yep....I did it! /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif

Got $7000 for the 2002 BX2200 with 335 hours and FEL. Gave $15500 for the BX23 and am keeping my old deck.

I felt I could have done a little better if I were more patient and sold it myself. I shouldn't have went and looked at the BX23 until I sold mine first. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif

Oh...I almost forgot. I ordered both a turf set and a bar set of tires.

YYYAAAAHHHOOOOOO /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday #2  
It sounds like you are very excited!!! Got to love this tractor stuff....

Donald B.
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday #3  
Eric,
Glad to see you made the switch, you'll love the additional flexibility the BH gives you.
I have both sets of tires, too. I did an easy mod that helps when you switch tires: On each rear hub, swap two wheel bolts for studs. You'll need 1/2", hex head bolts, 20 threads per inch (fine, not coarse), 1 1/2" inch long. Put them in from the back side of the hub plate, plenty of room for clearance. Got mine at lowe's for $0.61 each. get matching auto lug nuts at wherever. Much easier to wrestle loaded tires into place with studs in place....
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday
  • Thread Starter
#4  
I really like your idea!

One concern though...at .61 each, the bolts are probably not Grade 8 which are hardened steel. If yours are not, I would change them out. I think you can get replacement wheel studs from the auto parts store that would be appropriate.

Also, why not change to all studs?

Thanks for the great idea!
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday #5  
You cannot use wheel studs in the axle flange, because the holes have been threaded. Axle studs are designed for use in plain drilled holes and the studs themselves have a knurling on the last 1/2" before the head that hold them into the hole without turning. I believe that the bolts that he is using are adequate for the task. I don't believe that they need to be grade 8, however a grade 5 would be advisable. There really isn't much "load" on just two out of the total 5 bolts. I doubt that the original lug bolts are more than a grade 5.
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday #6  
Yes, this is grade 8 price locally, (your mileage may vary).

The studs you get at auto parts are not threaded all the way to the head, the ones I looked at have longitudinal splines near the heads. I guess you "beat" these into the car hub (so they won't twist.) The Kubo hubs are threaded all the way through, so this type of stud won't work, but regular bolts work beautifully. I tightened them as hard as I could, so far, they're holding fine. (I check the bolts when I check the lug nuts and wheel bolts.)

I only used two studs per hub because two seemed to be the optimal number. This procedure works well for me: raise the rear end with your BH stabilizers, then lean the wheel in and work it around until one stud lines up. (If your brake isn't engaged, you can turn the hub by hand.) When the first stud lines up, push the wheel onto it slightly. (The first stud "hangs" the wheel.) Raise (or lower) the rear end slightly until the second stud lines up. Once you have the second stud in line, push the wheel onto it more, raise the rear end a bit and push the wheel completely on. The three remaining bolt holes are automatically lined up and easy to bolt on. Much easier than trying to start two bolts through the wheel into the hub plate.

I figure if you use 5 studs, you'll have to be more precise in how you initially line up the wheel, not easy for me to do with my old tired back. To me, it's easier to finese the wheel using the stabilizers to raise/lower the rear end as needed to line up 2 studs. Maybe if you have better results with 5, I'll add them to mine. Let me know if you do.

BTW, the 1 1/2" bolts are just long enough to engage the whole lug nut with about 1/16" to spare. Lowe's had 2" ones, but they aren't threaded all the way to the head, so the extra 1/2" does no good. If I could find 1 3/4" threaded all the way to the head, this would allow a little more bolt to be past the nut.... Maybe a real hardware store would have them, I'll keep looking.

Notes: Like in a car, loosen the lug nuts/wheel bolts before you raise the rear end (or you can set your brake). It's easier to see if a lug nut is working loose than it is to see if a wheel bolt is. My front wheels are not loaded, so they're easy to put on with the stock wheel bolts.

I apologize for the lengthly explanation. It's really easier to just play around with the procedure than it is to explain it.

I won't take total credit for this idea. I saw a picture of a Kioti done this way, which inspired me to try it.
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday #7  
That is a good idea! I will give that a try as well. My tires are unloaded, so I may just do all 5 assuming I can find good hardware.
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday
  • Thread Starter
#8  
I'm not that versed in the lingo yet so I didn't pick up on the word loaded. /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif I think that means filled with beet juice. Yeah, now the whole stud thing makes even more sense.

Also, you guys are right. The automotive studs are knurled at the base and press in. I forgot.

I was just picturing some bolts from Lowes with the hardness of a carraige bolt and wanted to throw up a red flag for your safety.

Still....a great idea!
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday #9  
</font><font color="blue" class="small">( I was just picturing some bolts from Lowes with the hardness of a carraige bolt and wanted to throw up a red flag for your safety.
)</font>

Safety is always worth the flag! No worries on commenting on stuff around here (except politics /forums/images/graemlins/wink.gif )!
 
   / Need to change my name to EricBX23 after Saturday #10  
You're right. "filled" is a better term than "loaded." "Loaded" makes my tractor sound like it's a pistol or something! /forums/images/graemlins/blush.gif BTW, both my rear bars and turfs are filled. My dealer does it for free for all his sales. I didn't really ask for the turfs to be loaded, er, filled, but he convinced me it would make it just a bit more stable on the slopes while mowing. Not really that much more weight, after all, given the size of the BX tires....
Thanks for your input.
 

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