I want to install myself a remote hydraulic valve for a front snow plow. I am a mechanic by trade but would like to know the difficulty of the job and is there any special lines involved? Kubota quoted my 850 for the valve in which he told my mounts on the loader. Any help would be appreciated and pictures would be great also if you can.
Need help with remote hydraulic control Valve
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texbaylea
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I have to assume that the front snow plow has it's own mount and does not depend on the loader. If that is the case you should not need another valve, just use the loader control valves. What do you have to control, lift and angle? I you have tilt also then you would need another valve but I don't see why you could not use a rear remote valve for one function. On my L3130 I have one valve tee'd so I can use it for front or rear purposes.
Vernon
Vernon
I assume that you have a FEL control valve,if you do then you should be able to control all plow functions with that valve. I used a two way cylinder on the plow to raise and lower,and two one way cylinders on the plow for angling. The raise/lower cylinder is connected to the raise/lower (thru quick disconnects)on the FEL control valve.The one way angle cylinders are connected(via Q/D) to the roll/rollback on the FEL valve. I have a Kubota L3010 that I have done this to,and have had no problems.
bugstruck
Platinum Member
Botaman,
Looks like L3130 is mounting a blade on the QA. So the loader still occupies all the functions of the loader valve with his intended setup. There have been several posts here with guys that have done this with electric solenoids working off the existing loader controls as I recall. A search may locate that info..
I had a factory rear remote added and then had that plumbed from the back of the tractor to the front. If L3130 does that, he needs quick disconnects at the loader mount area too. I made that mistake and can't drop my loader without pulling those lines out, which is something I won't do. That will get resolved one day soon.
L3130,
IMO you would be better off getting the plow mounted directly to the tractor as Botaman was supposing you were. Then those loader controls would free up as he noted. I'm almost certain Kubota has a frame mount front blade. The loader mount blades your considering put a lotta lateral pressure on the loader arms when a big snow hits. With the frame mount the whole operation is not nearly as awkward and has to be stronger. That loader mounted blade is a mile out front too. I looked at that option and then dropped the idea. Still don't have a frame mount though. My green garden tractor and the rear blade on the Kubota do well enough anyhow. Still, it's nice to have a third circuit on the loader. I'm thinking grapple. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
HTH
Looks like L3130 is mounting a blade on the QA. So the loader still occupies all the functions of the loader valve with his intended setup. There have been several posts here with guys that have done this with electric solenoids working off the existing loader controls as I recall. A search may locate that info..
I had a factory rear remote added and then had that plumbed from the back of the tractor to the front. If L3130 does that, he needs quick disconnects at the loader mount area too. I made that mistake and can't drop my loader without pulling those lines out, which is something I won't do. That will get resolved one day soon.
L3130,
IMO you would be better off getting the plow mounted directly to the tractor as Botaman was supposing you were. Then those loader controls would free up as he noted. I'm almost certain Kubota has a frame mount front blade. The loader mount blades your considering put a lotta lateral pressure on the loader arms when a big snow hits. With the frame mount the whole operation is not nearly as awkward and has to be stronger. That loader mounted blade is a mile out front too. I looked at that option and then dropped the idea. Still don't have a frame mount though. My green garden tractor and the rear blade on the Kubota do well enough anyhow. Still, it's nice to have a third circuit on the loader. I'm thinking grapple. /forums/images/graemlins/smile.gif
HTH
Grassgod
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MadReferee
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</font><font color="blue" class="small">( Yes, But how do I hook up the lines. I don't want to loss the tilt and dump. Do I need to install a remote? If you don't mind can you get a close up shot of your line set up? I'm very lost in this whole deal. )</font>
If that is the case you will need an electric diverter or a seperate remote. I would go the diverter route with a button on the loader joystick to divert one of the joystick functions to the new implement. A diverter setup should cost less than the Kubota remote and be easier to use (button on joystick vs lever on right fender).
If that is the case you will need an electric diverter or a seperate remote. I would go the diverter route with a button on the loader joystick to divert one of the joystick functions to the new implement. A diverter setup should cost less than the Kubota remote and be easier to use (button on joystick vs lever on right fender).
txdon
Super Star Member
Wait, if he does not want to loose the tilt (or lift) on the FEL, even temporally, wouldn't he have grab his hydraulics from the rear?
MadReferee
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Yes, but that would mean he would need an extra hand to operate all functions simultaneously (one hand on steering wheel, one hand on loader joystick, and one hand on remote lever).
texbaylea
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Unless you are using your tractor commercially where time is money, I fail to see where the 15 seconds it takes to move your hand from the joystick back to the remotes and operate one or two is very onerous. Even with 3 remotes as I have you quickly learn to select the correct one by feel so you don't have to take your eyes off the job.
Even with push buttons for diverter valves you are still executing one function at a time.
Vernon
Even with push buttons for diverter valves you are still executing one function at a time.
Vernon
bugstruck
Platinum Member
L3130,
Your getting allot of good responses and good counterpoints here IMO. The electric diverter is nice as MadRef noted because it's control is added on the FEL joystick. You momentarially loose the use of say the bucket curl circuit when activating the button as I understand it. The joystick movement that controls the bucket curl would be diverted to the angle cylinder on the blade until you released the solenoid/diverter button. Think I have that correct. It is a convenient setup.
Texbaylea makes a good suggestion on the separate remote. Not that big a deal to use, and the curl circuit is never defeated with that solution. Joystick controls remain unaltered. Another advantage is that if you do a rear remote and plumb it forward, you have it available at the 3PH for other uses.
Really it just gets down to cost and prefferance. I don't think the cost is that far apart. Few hundred $$ more maybe for the remote and lines up front. Mine was about $1k and others have had it done in the 750 range. Also, once you have a remote out back, additional remotes are reasonable to install. The first is the big dinero.
You can also do a remote at the loader mount area, but that is not the preferred solution for most remote applications. Works fine though for your immediate purpose. Just stacking additional remotes on there ,later, may not be desirable.
Guess we'd all eventually like to know where you land on this. Any of the options cited are good, just a matter of best for you.
Good Luck,
Your getting allot of good responses and good counterpoints here IMO. The electric diverter is nice as MadRef noted because it's control is added on the FEL joystick. You momentarially loose the use of say the bucket curl circuit when activating the button as I understand it. The joystick movement that controls the bucket curl would be diverted to the angle cylinder on the blade until you released the solenoid/diverter button. Think I have that correct. It is a convenient setup.
Texbaylea makes a good suggestion on the separate remote. Not that big a deal to use, and the curl circuit is never defeated with that solution. Joystick controls remain unaltered. Another advantage is that if you do a rear remote and plumb it forward, you have it available at the 3PH for other uses.
Really it just gets down to cost and prefferance. I don't think the cost is that far apart. Few hundred $$ more maybe for the remote and lines up front. Mine was about $1k and others have had it done in the 750 range. Also, once you have a remote out back, additional remotes are reasonable to install. The first is the big dinero.
You can also do a remote at the loader mount area, but that is not the preferred solution for most remote applications. Works fine though for your immediate purpose. Just stacking additional remotes on there ,later, may not be desirable.
Guess we'd all eventually like to know where you land on this. Any of the options cited are good, just a matter of best for you.
Good Luck,
