need help with 2350FD injector leak

[bgood1]

Can anyone tell me what would probably be involved in repairing a leak around the second injector from the front of 4 cyl. engine? It apears that the body around the injector may be plastic(?) and has partially melted and is leaking fuel. I do not have a local parts source so any help would be appreciated.

thanks,
BillG

 

[PILOON]

I'm no expert, but plastic sounds wrong considering the pressure as well as the heat that would be in that location.

I'd rather suspect a loose fitting or loose injector.

Did you try tightening the fitting?

Also, like with a spark plug, if loose (considering the pressures), you'd best torque that properly or it could cause thread damage.

 

[lens12]

Is it leaking at the head (injector seal), where the line attachs(copper seals probably), or in between (replace the injector) I can supply parts.

 

[bgood1]

[/IMG]

Fellas,

thanks for the replies. I took the injector apart while trying to remove it. The leak seems to be at the outer edge of the injector body. I'm no diesel mechanic and don't know how similar injectors are between different makes but, I was unable to remove the outer "barrel" or cylindrical portion of the injector from the engine head. I figure at the base of this assembly is probably the copper ring than Lens12 is refering to. Is there a special puller required to remove the whole assembly?
Also the thick coating of engine enamel in this area had bubbled up from the escaping gases and gave the area a molten plastic appearance it seems.
Again, thanks for all the help...I may try to post some pics later but it will have to be from my camera phone since my digital camera is on the fritz!

10 minutes later:

Ok, I hope the pic made it...there should be a red arrow pointing to the outer round edge of the injector body. I have since put it back together but mind you I was only able to remove the two bolts on the "keeper" and then unscrewed the body of the injector that left the round outer portion in the head. Everything seemed tight upon disassembly bt I put a little extra pressure on it when I put it back together. I'll have to borrow a torque wrench to do it properly of course...anyone have the ft/lb specs. ?


thanks guys,
Bill

 

[PILOON]

Torque= really tight without stripping threads!

Experienced mechanics don't need torque wrenches as they learn 'by feel'.

Believe it or not, I have a guality Snap-On TQ series torque, calibrated to boot and I have stripped more threads with than without.

Tighten until you feel a very slight slip. You are there! (clean threads, naturally)
But then you kinda need to know the differant feel of 30 inch lbs vs 30 ft lbs.

In aviation an owner is allowed to install spark plugs ONLY with a torque wrench but a licenced mechanic is exempt.

 

[bgood1]

In aviation an owner is allowed to install spark plugs ONLY with a torque wrench but a licenced mechanic is exempt.

Dang Piloon, that is a scary bit of trivia right there...

Regarding torque, we just recently had a training seminar at work and the instructor informed us on how much to deduct from torque rating if you lube the threads...we had been told to coat any and all bolts and studs with anti sieze before re-assembly. Moral of this saga is, we had overtorqued pretty much everything that we had installed for the last 10 years!

Thank you for the insights,
Bill

 

[lens12]

I could try explaining how to make a puller, but it would be alot easier to tell you. You can call me if you still need to pull it. 815-284-3226

 

[bgood1]

Ok, I got the injector to seal off once more. Now the engine developes the occasional skip and if I don't increase the throttle quickly the engine will die and is really hard to restart.
I need to mention that my property is all pretty vertical, being mountain wilderness, so I am not sure if I have bad fuel or poor fuel delivery.I was in the process of scooping up some gravel to fill some soft spots in my steep driveway when the engine died.
I plan on draining the fuel tank and going with all fresh diesel since I am beginning to believe my original problem may have began with water in my fuel. I cannot verify that, but I think it may have caused the original problem since water would not compress and blew out the copper injector seal. Once I got the leak stopped the tractor ran great as usual as long as I was on level ground up near my homesite.
Anyone else ever encounter a similar problem?
Thanks,
Bill

UPDATE:

I was just down at the bottom of the drive (where the tractor is...) removing the battery for a re-charge, and I noticed the plastic filter bowl don't look right. It is usually pretty clear and I remembered the guy I got it from had cracked the glass bexel on the fuel cap that allows you to see the level indicator.He had attempted to silicone the pieces to seal it and guess what...there is condensate clinging to the underside of the glass!

Incidently I was getting whitish exhaust just before she conked out so I am figuring that is unburnt fuel. Should I remove the glow plugs and turn over engine to clear this gunk out now? Afterwards should I try to prime it or should it be allowed to start in its own time frame (the last time it took quite a while to get all the air out even after evacuating all the air all the way to the injectors), also I know ether is a NO NO.


I guess it is time to go get greasy,
Bill

 

[PILOON]

With that cracked fuel bowl I think you are just asking for problems.
Air can infiltrate via the smallest pores/gaps.
I'd replace the bowl ASAP if nothing else but to eliminate that chance.
Also I'm sure that silicone could come loose and can't immagine that it would be very good to run it in the injector pump.

A bowl is cheap vs a pump!

 

[bgood1]

Piloon, it is the fuel cap that is cracked, sorry for my rambling posts. I am hoping to get the system purged and be back in business. I removed quite a bit of water from the system already. If I can find a suitable replacement cap I'll toss the busted one.

Bill