Need Help Quick: Connecting Howse Mower to PTO

[adt2]

Now that I've finally solved my overheating problem, I've borrowed a friend's Howse mower to get the thigh-high grass under control out at our property. So far it's been a gigantic clusterf*ck. Without going into a lot of boring detail, let's just say getting it connected to the 3-point hookup on the back of my tractor was an adventure.

But, we're all hooked up now EXCEPT for the shaft. It's got some kind of weird connection I'm not familiar with. The connector on my post-hole digger has a spring-loaded pin that engages the groove in the tractor's PTO shaft. Easy to use, easy to understand. The connector on this Howse mower, though, is something different. I suspect it rotates one way or the other to release, but I'm not sure (and my buddy is unavailable to help out).

So, a couple of questions. First, how do I get the thing attached? I thought I had it on there, but after about 5 minutes of mowing, it fell off. Is there some secret to getting it secured correctly (a small sledgehammer and a block of wood comes to mind)? Second, how do I get it off when I'm done using it? Lastly (and this has to do with the tremendous amount of trouble we had getting it attached to the 3-point hookup), is there some secret to setting up all the links on the back of the tractor to make them more user-friendly? The two lower links wouldn't go wide enough to allow us to hook up to the mower, so we switched the posts on the mower to face in - but then the lower links wouldn't go narrow enough to allow hook-up. We ended up having to remove the mounting studs, slip them into the two lower link arms, then persuade them back into the mounting holes on the mower where we bolted them back on. Gigantic pain.

 

[k0ua]

First off there are three types of couplers I know of. The kind with the pin you hold in with your thumb, the kind you twist an outer ring under spring pressure, and the kind you have to pull back as you try to shove on to the PTO shaft.. A real bummer as you you are trying to pull back and push forward at the same time... yeah.. good engineering. When you put on any PTO shaft, no matter what kind, you always try to pull it off by tugging on it to make sure it is locked on and seated. Make sure the coupler balls are lubed so they do not stick, and make sure there are no burrs on the PTO shaft or the coupler. Make sure the coupler and shaft are lubed. I use Fluid Film.

I don't understand why you are taking things apart to get the lower links over the draw pins.?. What were you doing with the turnbuckles or telescoping sway bars? Why were you not able to adjust them? Normally you loosen the turnbuckles to allow the lower link arms to swing out as wide as needed to clear the draw pins. Man handle the implement or move the tractor which ever is easier, to clear over the draw pins on the implement. Then after the implement is hooked up, adjust the turnbuckles for a small amount of sway, and make sure the implement is centered between the tires. Yes of course telescoping lower link ends and telescoping stabilizers are easier than solid lower link ends, and turnbuckles for stabilizers, but you got to live with what you have at hand.

 

[adt2]

Believe me, I was inventing 4-letter words by the time I got to disassembling stuff to hook this implement up. Sounds like I need to spend some time getting to know the lower link arms, turnbuckles, etc. I wasn't doing anything with them (other than looking at them and asking my 12-year-old, "You reckon these have anything to do with anything?"). They are some kind of rusted, though - that project will likely go from "lubricating and adjusting" to "removing and replacing" real quick-like.

Re: manhandling the equipment vs. moving the tractor, we manhandle the pallet forks, post-hole digger, and (to a lesser extent) the box blade. This mower deck, however, weighs as much as a battleship apparently. There was no moving it by hand. What I really need is another tractor with a FEL and lifting straps to move the implements while I'm hooking them up...

 

[k0ua]

Believe me, I was inventing 4-letter words by the time I got to disassembling stuff to hook this implement up. Sounds like I need to spend some time getting to know the lower link arms, turnbuckles, etc. I wasn't doing anything with them (other than looking at them and asking my 12-year-old, "You reckon these have anything to do with anything?"). They are some kind of rusted, though - that project will likely go from "lubricating and adjusting" to "removing and replacing" real quick-like.

Re: manhandling the equipment vs. moving the tractor, we manhandle the pallet forks, post-hole digger, and (to a lesser extent) the box blade. This mower deck, however, weighs as much as a battleship apparently. There was no moving it by hand. What I really need is another tractor with a FEL and lifting straps to move the implements while I'm hooking them up...

A set of Carters or Pats would make life easier for you.. but you still will need to adjust the turnbuckles. I don't have any trouble hooking up any 3pt implement any more after getting the Kioti with telescoping lower link ends and telescoping stabilizers instead of turnbuckles. BUT people have been hooking up for decades without them. It is just more trouble, and requires inventing new words. Many profit by application of a prybar to pry implements around a little bit after they get as close to the pins with the tractor that they can. Some people put implements on wheeled dollies so that they can push them around easily. But that only works on a solid floor, not in the dirt. Get a big crow bar, or even just a 2x4 to help pry the implement pins and the lower link arms closer together.

 

[adt2]

I've got Pats bookmarked somewhere. I need to look into that again.

In the meantime - any tips for getting the shaft firmly secured to the PTO? Are a sledge and block of wood considered taboo, or is that kosher?

 

[k0ua]

I've got Pats bookmarked somewhere. I need to look into that again.

In the meantime - any tips for getting the shaft firmly secured to the PTO? Are a sledge and block of wood considered taboo, or is that kosher?

No real force should be needed.. If it is the twist kind of coupler. slide it all the way on, and let go of the coupler collar. Then slowly pull back and the balls should drop into the groove on the PTO shaft. Then test Pull on it, straight back to see that it does not come off. Make sure your balls are lubed, and look into the coupler end and twist it to release the balls, they should retract easily. Then with the coupler release, the balls should come out, and not be able to be pushed back in their recesses by your finger. Check it out until you understand how it works. Same thing with the pull back coupler. The pin in the side coupler that you hold with your thumb does not have balls, it has a pin that slides and locks in the groove.. BUT all of them should not be able to be pulled back off by hand without actuating the mechanism. To remove from the PTO shaft, actuate the mechanism, and slide it off.

 

[California]

My Howse mower has a PTO coupler that you twist to disengage the security pin - but it doesn't work very well. I take it apart every year or so to clean and lube the coupler.

What's inside the coupler is the kind of shaft lock where you press the head of a pin. This moves the pin inward an inch or so, so that a notch that is halfway down the pin aligns to allow the tractor's pto output shaft to slide into the coupler.

The plastic outer collar of this coupler has a ramp in it that is supposed to push in the pin when you rotate the collar. Poor design, a little dirt in there makes it impossible to make this device push in the pin.

The only remedy is take out the big snap ring on the front face of the coupler then clean and lube the parts that this exposes.


All this assumes the tractor's pto shaft and the implement's pto coupler are clean enough to slide together easily. Clean these with a wire brush if needed. And grease the tractor's pto shaft with lube grease or wheel bearing grease before attaching the implement - so it won't be difficult to detach later. Keep both components greased when not connected so no rust can build up.

I like a 8 ft 2x4 for shoving the mower into place.

And its essential to use the turnbuckles to spread the arms, then set them snug after the implement is attached. If they are stuck, take them off the tractor, disassemble, and clean the threads with a wire wheel on a bench grinder.(Or replace). Keep the turnbuckle threads greased. You need usable, adjustable turnbuckles to mount implements.

Sledge and block? If the adjustable-length slider halfway down the pto shaft needs cleaning it might be difficult to slide the pto coupler onto the tractor's pto shaft. If this is the case, take it apart, clean, grease. Aside from that there's nothing that would need hammer force.

 

[284 International]

k0ua gave good advice already, and it's a little late, but I can't help but comment that you might consider how your attachment procedures will appear to your friend. I would be very, very annoyed if I loaned someone my equipment and they disassembled it, rearranged the pins, then coerced the PTO shaft onto their machine with mallet or block of wood. I'm happy to do that MYSELF, but I don't want other people walloping my stuff or changing it so it works for them.

Anyway. I'd suggest a wire brushing of the PTO shaft on the tractor end, and a bottle brushing (I like 12 gauge shotgun bore brushes) of the connector on the implement side. As was said already, the connector you have likely either twists or pulls away from the tractor end to disconnect. It will need to be "opened" to push onto the male end.

You will wise to get the turnbuckles functional. It will make your life much easier, help the implements work better, and, depending on the working environment, reduce the damage to your tractor, implements, and surrounding environment. If they are quite rusty, remove them and give the exposed threads a wire brushing. Then, some sort of acid can be applied to the rusty portion. I like the Naval Jelly rust remover, but CLR, vinegar, molasses, and lots of other things work too. Let the parts soak overnight, give them a rinsing, wire brush again, and repeat as necessary. Then, if you haven't been able to disassemble them easily, you should be able to easily take the parts individually and clean them up as needed. Again, barrel brushes for shotguns work pretty well on the internal threads.

For lubricating the side links and PTO connectors, I prefer motorcycle chain lubricant. Other things work fine too, but the chain lube isn't overly sticky once dry, stays in place (so isn't messy), protects well against corrosion, and is easy to apply.

You will be MUCH happier once your parts move freely and are reasonably adjustable. Good luck!

 

[California]

284, good advice. I like the idea of a shotgun brush for the turnbuckle internal threads. I use something similar (sold as a plumber's tool) and turn it with a drill. I learned something from your list of chemicals, and I'll have to try motorcycle chain lube.


Harbor Freight has a $1 kit of tiny wire brushes, like toothbrushes. The steel and brass ones are the right width to clean pto splines, M or F side.

You will be MUCH happier once your parts move freely and are reasonably adjustable. Good luck!

Agree 100 :thumbsup:

 

[pmsmechanic]

Just going to add a few comments. My rototiller has a collar with an internal spring. Trying to pull back on the collar while pushing the shaft on, in the confines of the space at the back of the tractor with the tiller attached was more than my shoulders could take. I replaced the original internal spring with a much lighter one. Makes the job much easier.

I like the idea of turnbuckles that turn easy.I don't like the idea of using any kind of grease on them. It attracts dirt and within a short time you are cleaning them again. I would use something like WD-40. It leaves behind a thin film of something that doesn't attract dirt. People on here dis the stuff but hey it works. I also think that the idea of turning the turnbuckles every time you want to attach to an implement is more work than it's worth. I would just remove a bolt through a clevis somewhere on the turnbuckle assembly and slip in a pin of some sort. Just pull the pin, drop the turnbuckle and when your hooked up reattach the turnbuckle. Others have mentioned different solutions and they work too.

The idea of greasing the pto shaft against rust is a good idea. Again my shoulders can't take the pushing and pulling a pto shaft against grease that has been thickened with dirt so I just seasonally give the pto splines a shot of WD. It works for me.

If I loan you my equipment and you have to change it all around so that it works for you I don't mind. Just change it back to the way it was when you bring it back. Good luck