need help no turn signals or flashers

[Hay Dude]

M7040.
Emergency flasher switch and turn signals do not work. Turn signals go "click, click, click" but no lights will blink.
YES I checked the fuses. All good. Bulbs good.
When I checked wires to back of emergency flasher switch, electrical tester did not light up.
Seems like blinker relay is good due to clicking sound.

Any ideas what to check?

 

[kw22614]

sounds like maybe a connection came loose, or a broken wire (open circuit) from the feed side of the relay, or maybe a ground got loose. Check to make sure all your grounds are clean and tight and/or the fixtures are tightly attached to the fenders. Check the bulbs too, some vehicles electric circuit quits if only 1 bulb goes bad (open cicuit). Good luck, KW

 

[kw22614]

Also relays, 5 blade and 4 blade have 2 circuits - power in and strong power out. Even though you can hear the clicking to the flasher the relay could still be bad. Remove the relay noting where each wire goes and slam it on a table top - sometimes thats enough to unstick the welded metal springs inside, then reinstall and try it. Or just read the info on the relay and buy a new matching specs one from most any auto parts store - they're relatively cheap. Again good luck.....

 

[Hay Dude]

I fixed it. Never saw this before. I was ready to pack it in. Went back to fuse panel.
Put tester on fuses with tractor running. One fuse had top test point light up, but not bottom. Pulled fuse. Looked at it very closely. Looked fine. Put new fuse in and flashers worked. This fuse looks perfect, but does not work.
I'm also beginning to think there might be corrosion on the fuse panel. Never saw a fuse that looked fine, but didnt work.

 

[kw22614]

Good for you. Nothing like a happy ending!

 

[Hay Dude]

Thanks. I wonder if the blade clamp on the fuse holder had just enuf corrosion to cause bad contact??

 

[kw22614]

Is it the glass type fuse with metal filament inside? They're (especially the lower amp ones) notorious for looking fine but being blown. Sometimes evidenced by slight darkening near one end, sometimes only by vigorous shaking under a magnifying glass to see the broken filament usually behind one of the metal endcaps. Radio shack used to sell slo-blow fuses - they look the same but packed with silica. Don't know if they still do.
If it's the plastic circuit-breaker type fuse they blow at the weakest spot sometimes where the filament meets the blade encased in the plastic. Check your fuse panel also to make sure all the holders are tight on the board. A little dab of vaseline to the fuse ends at time of installation will help avoid corrosion build up too.

 

[George2615]

Use your ohm meter to check the fuse you replaced. If it reads good then maybe you do have some corrosion in the fuse box contacts. Replacing the fuse scraped off enough corrosion to make the connection again.

 

[Hay Dude]

Crap, it came back again. Blew another fuse. I hate electrical problems. This ones going to take some time.

 

[Hay Dude]

Well, I thought I had the problem fixed. I replaced all the lights. All was well for about 5 hrs, then "snap" the fuse blew again.
It's a hassle having no flashers when you're on the road a lot!