need help finding hydraulic rebuild kit
- Thread starter curt1298
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I have never used this Company. I have it filed in my list of ever needed. You may give them a call and see if they have the parts, or will rebuild your pump. They have a toll free number, so no cost for the call.
Wooster Hydrostatics | Hydraulic Pump, Motor, Cylinder Repair | Northeast Ohio
Wooster Hydrostatics | Hydraulic Pump, Motor, Cylinder Repair | Northeast Ohio
brain55
Veteran Member
Have you been to the dealer? Have you already replaced the seal? The way it is worded makes me think that you have already replaced the seal at least once. In my experience, if you are pushing hydraulic oil past the front seal on the hydraulic pump it is time for a new pump. The hydraulic pump on that machine has an aluminum housing. You can buy all of the parts to rebuilt it but you will be better off just getting a new pump section or assy.
Brian
thanks for the reply guys. No, I haven't replaced the seal before I just bought the tractor used a few days ago and discovered the problem when I went to use it. I pulled the pump today and and it feels alright (i.e. no slop or play in it) and ordered a new seal an o-rings from kubota for around 25.00. I found out how to get the parts numbers from messicks which also shows an exploded view of the pump which will be helpful in the rebuild. I figure 25.00 is a cheap alternative if it doesn't work no big deal I can buy a new pump then.
leonz
Super Member
The pump shaft and bearings can be fine with no play
it feels fine because the shaft is machined with one gear half of the pump and nests in behind bronze wear plates covering the gear sets and 8 very long roller bearings whch support the gear pumps gear sets at both ends of the pump(s)
but typically the shaft outside diameter will be worn by the original seal lips unfortunately (they are very tight to keep oil in and dirt out).
The other problem is that the pump probably does not have a case drain hose which relieves system pressure back to tank from behind the seal lips(pressure side)this is why the seals fail in most all cases.
Do not lose the spring that is used for the seal lips pressure against the pump shaft. I hope it works for you.
You will need to purchase or borrow a pin spanner to remove the seal retainer to install the new seal.
Please use a little electrical tape over the shaft end to allow for easy installation of the seal holder and new seal.
I hope it goes well for you.
it feels fine because the shaft is machined with one gear half of the pump and nests in behind bronze wear plates covering the gear sets and 8 very long roller bearings whch support the gear pumps gear sets at both ends of the pump(s)
but typically the shaft outside diameter will be worn by the original seal lips unfortunately (they are very tight to keep oil in and dirt out).
The other problem is that the pump probably does not have a case drain hose which relieves system pressure back to tank from behind the seal lips(pressure side)this is why the seals fail in most all cases.
Do not lose the spring that is used for the seal lips pressure against the pump shaft. I hope it works for you.
You will need to purchase or borrow a pin spanner to remove the seal retainer to install the new seal.
Please use a little electrical tape over the shaft end to allow for easy installation of the seal holder and new seal.
I hope it goes well for you.
This pump was very simple. I bought all the orings and a seal. I took it apart and used some emery cloth to smooth the shaft out and replaced the orings and seal. reinstalled the pump and problem solved. p.s. found a break down diagram and part number on messicks.com. all the parts cost around $25.00.