Need "dam" advice

[neevlk]

I"m in begining stages of constructing an earthen dam on my property to control runoff from my pasture that has many springs that run year round.Problem is all this water runs to some very flat cropland that is tilled everything is fine except in spring after all of the ground springs run all winter, 3 to 4 feet of ice covering 5 acres.what I need is an inexpensive valve to put onthe downstream side of a four inch tile line that I would run though the dam.Plans are to release water though late summer and fall to lower dam water level 4 to 5 foot to compensate for ice build up.Also be great to have my on fishing spot. Any ideas on valve or other suggestions. Thanks

 

[smstonypoint]

I'm no expert, but I've been on several farms in SC where farmers have built dams to form duck ponds in their bottom lands. (They flood their corn fields after harvest, August-September here, and lease their hunting rights). I can't remember the details of how they controlled the water discharge, but it wasn't elaborate. A Google search on "duck pond construction" may turn up some plans.

One thing I would be concerned about is whether the area on your farm is considered a "wetland." I don't know anything about "wetland regulations" other than that there appears to be a lot of them. You might want to talk to the folks at your local NRCS office.

Here's a USDA publication that may prove useful.

http://www.in.nrcs.usda.gov/pdf%20files/PONDS.PDF

Steve

 

[SPIKER]

One of our local large 20acres on 2 sides (40 total) acre natural hunting state run places uses a concrete pier with keyways in it. they slide white oak planks down into the keyways to control water level. the oak down not leak and holds up really well. One thing from what it sounds a 4" drain may be WAY undersized to do much to a flowing springs. I put in a 4" tile from my upper spring fed field down into the creek 3 years back. it runs about 2/3 full after rains and runs all summer long at 1/3 full (probably 60 ~80 GPM through the dry season.) One problem I have noticed since it my water level and quality in my well is worse as I was able to tie the 4" tile into a dry well I dug into the spring. I also ties the dry well into some OLD clay field tile in the area. I think the "EASE" of the springs now draining has lowered the water table some in the local area or perhaps it was just a coincidence...??

Anyhow there are other types of larger tiles that can be valved the same way and all it usually takes is a square concrete basin with the tile either cast in or a flange to mate to the tile size of choice. The WHITE OAK can be had at any local sawmill that can get you some. cut to a nice thick size depending on the depth you want to basin to be you will need enough to fill the gap from keyway to keyway. the top of the basin needs a good quality grate that will let overflow out as an additional overflow and screen out debris.

Mark

 

[TripleR]

We used valving on the water side of one of our ponds to control the water level, we just opened the valve at the proper level when we wanted to let the level rise or fall. It is a 5 acre impoundment fed by runoff.

We have a shutoff valve on the dry side of the dam, but you need a special tool to use it. None of these would be described as cheap though and were required when we but the dam.

As mentioned, I don't believe a 4" is going to be big enough.