Need advice on welding machine purchase

[ArtMech]

I've checked ESAB equipment BUDDY ARC 180. Could be good as well, even if maximum electrode diameter is 3,2 mm (comparing to Kemppi EVO 180 - 4 mm). Good price - $330 only.
ESAB Buddy arc 180

The same dealer "sells" Miller welders. But meanwhile no Miller equipment is available on their price list :confused3:
Miller - Suvirinimo ?ranga ir med?iagos

I really like Lincoln welders. Just its dealer is far away from my location. I've been on their Open-Door-Operation last week. A representative was analysing my eyes too much, what I didn't like :confused2: He spoke obscurely.

Kemppi dealer is perfect, checked by my friend - machine shop owner, who's using several different capacity Kemppi welders and has no complains at all. This is one of the arguments to choose Kemppi brand name. And a representative was not analysing my eyes :laughing:

Thanks again to all of you.

 

[Brad_Blazer]

I guess the reason for the price difference is apparent in the product labels. Made in Finland vs. PRC. Did you get a quote on the EVO 180?

http://static1.auctelia.com/en/resource/picture/portable-welder-kemppi-minarc-150-69666L.jpg
http://www.samsvojmajstor.com/portal/sites/default/files/buddy_arc_180.jpg

 

[Phil48]

Lincoln do have many representant in Lithuania...

Search for Service and Distributor Locations | Lincoln Electric

I just bought a new model...
POWER MIG® 210 MP Multi-Process Welder

excellent... Power Mig 210

 

[ArtMech]

I guess the reason for the price difference is apparent in the product labels. Made in Finland vs. PRC. Did you get a quote on the EVO 180?

http://static1.auctelia.com/en/resource/picture/portable-welder-kemppi-minarc-150-69666L.jpg
http://www.samsvojmajstor.com/portal/sites/default/files/buddy_arc_180.jpg

Kemppi EVO 180 costs $767, exactly the same price as Lincoln Invertec 170S, which is made in Poland.

 

[ArtMech]

Lincoln do have many representant in Lithuania...

All of them belong to the same company - Stokker.

 

[ArtMech]

Made a decision on Kemppi EVO 180. I already have it.
Welding for me is another world I'm coming in. Still doing many training attempts with different sticks, current, stick moving speed and angles.
The machine itself is doing its job perfectly. All the rest depends on me.

Thank you guys for your advices and comparisons.

 

[ArtMech]

Here is my first serious welding job with a new machine. Looks not enough good to me, but a bit better than at the beginning.
Steel - 65G (GOST standard, soviet - it's a spring steel), electrodes - ELGA Cromarod 312 (3.25 mm), thickness of pieces - 10 mm, current - 100 Amps.

 

[muddstopper]

Here is my first serious welding job with a new machine. Looks not enough good to me, but a bit better than at the beginning.
Steel - 65G (GOST standard, soviet - it's a spring steel), electrodes - ELGA Cromarod 312 (3.25 mm), thickness of pieces - 10 mm, current - 100 Amps.

View attachment 441936 View attachment 441937 View attachment 441938

Looks to me you are just starting the arc and dragging the rod. Try weaving the rod side to side as you drag it across the weld. Weaving from one side, pauseing for just s second and then in a semi circle motion, weaving to the other side and pausing as you drag the rod will tie in the weld a little better and leave a smoother bead.

 

[ArtMech]

Looks to me you are just starting the arc and dragging the rod. Try weaving the rod side to side as you drag it across the weld. Weaving from one side, pauseing for just s second and then in a semi circle motion, weaving to the other side and pausing as you drag the rod will tie in the weld a little better and leave a smoother bead.

Before welding I've made the chamfers on both sides of the horizontal part (edge) so to sink deeper the first two passes. I was thinking, maybe I had to choose greater diameter rod and greater current. But you're right, I was too fast to move a rod. And this technique - to move it from side to side - is known for me. Yes, I had to apply it in this case.
Thank you for advice.

 

[ArtMech]

I'd be very thankful if someone may pass the answers to the questions.
Is there a rule of how to make a bucket edge welding correctly? Do the arrows in a pic attached show a correct position of forces to be applied so to have it straight after welding?

View attachment bucket welding 2.pdf

 

[Shield Arc]

Back stepping your welds, and skipping around a lot. And making welds on opposite sides of each other are a big help in countering distortion.

 

[ArtMech]

Back stepping your welds, and skipping around a lot. And making welds on opposite sides of each other are a big help in countering distortion.

Thank you, Shield Arc, I understand your advise. And indeed I'll take it into account for the future.

But please take a look at another picture attached. In fact the bucket edge should be welded from opposite (bottom) side first and, after turning it over, - from another side (inside). Distortion may occur within bottom side welding. As you may see, maybe the welding of stiffening strips 15x40 mm (yellow arrows) from underneath could do that "bad job" of edge distortion. Continuous lines (red arrows) are of welding together of 4 mm sheet and 20 mm thickness edge. It is welded with MIG by another guy, not by me with my MMA.

View attachment bucket welding 1.pdf

 

[Shield Arc]

If you follow my method, you'll have a fighting chance. But sometimes things will warp no matter what you do while welding. That's when you heat shrink. Or use a hydraulic jack, and a strong back, to force it into shape.