Need advice ASAP on fitting slip joints on 2" pipe.

[pharmvet]

Ok, my 2002 ft water line is well underway and I need to finish it tomorrow. All trenches are dug and difficult plumbint (T's and detail work) completed. All I need to do is connect the pvc (2" slip joint), drop it in the trench and cover. Here is my delima:

The male ends of the pipe have a mark encircling them. The mark is 3-1/2 inches from the end which has a bevel making it easier to slide up into the female end with the gasket. We were told to use food grade lubricant and it is working well. If I slip the male end into the female end to the mark, there is still about an inch that I can push it on further in. With everything that is within me, I desperately want to push it in until it bottoms out. However, I suspect this mark is there for a reason, and I suspect the reason is to allow the pipe to slip either direction.

When fitting this type of pipe do you

a) push it in until it bottoms out
or
b) push it in only to the mark to allow for expansion either direction


I want to do this right and only one time. Please, please, please someone who really knows how this pipe was designed to be used tell me what to do. thanks a million.

 

[AchingBack]

It sounds like you are describing a compression coupling, also called a dressler coupling. Slip joints are glued, and require no lubricant to install. If this is what you are working with, go ahead a push it in as far as possible. https://encrypted-tbn3.google.com/i...BJR0yMb-RaIguy2HyRhUQG05IuvSxoq1qRAm_oOIU7F8g

 

[dex3361]

Ok, my 2002 ft water line is well underway and I need to finish it tomorrow. All trenches are dug and difficult plumbint (T's and detail work) completed. All I need to do is connect the pvc (2" slip joint), drop it in the trench and cover. Here is my delima:

The male ends of the pipe have a mark encircling them. The mark is 3-1/2 inches from the end which has a bevel making it easier to slide up into the female end with the gasket. We were told to use food grade lubricant and it is working well. If I slip the male end into the female end to the mark, there is still about an inch that I can push it on further in. With everything that is within me, I desperately want to push it in until it bottoms out. However, I suspect this mark is there for a reason, and I suspect the reason is to allow the pipe to slip either direction.

When fitting this type of pipe do you








a) push it in until it bottoms out
or
b) push it in only to the mark to allow for expansion either direction


I want to do this right and only one time. Please, please, please someone who really knows how this pipe was designed to be used tell me what to do. thanks a million.

B)Push it in at least till the mark but if it goes past the reference mark don't worry about it. It is not an exact science. You just need to push it to the mark or more.

 

[Tractor Seabee]

If this is any type mechanical joint system; ie, no welding, threading, or solvent weld, you need to put a thrust block any time you change direction, up, down, or sideways and about every 300'. A 80# sack of premix concrete will do it. It is amazing how much pipe will move, even when buried, from the dynamics of turning valves on and off and temp changes. I have seen pipe come out of the ground from 2' down a year after install when using "O" ring joints which is what you described. For gravity drains its not a problem but pressure adds a new dynamic. Higher the pressure the greater the potential for movement. The standard is to insert to the mark. The temperature elongation coeffecient of plastic is quite high. Your 2000' of pipe will grow or shrink several inches between summer and winter temps depending on where you live. If it wasn't buried you would have to compensate for several feet of length change. Google the type of pipe you are using and you can find the equation for this.

Ron

 

[EddieWalker]

I push them in to the line or a little more. To pass inspection, they like to see part of the line but dont seem to mind if its not there, just don't let it not be in far enough.

The pipe supplier sells the lube. It's pretty cheap, but I forget the details. They also have a bleach that you through into every joint. It's a dry crystal in a bucket and you use a small scooper to toss in just a little as you go.

I've only done it in the trench. I don't know if you can lower it into the trenche without it coming apart, but then maybe you can. I never tried it that way.

Be very sure that you block it. I was required to use concrete sacks to make sure it was locked into place at the bends and at the end of the line. No matter how good you compact the soil that goes back into the trench, it will never be as solid as what isn't dug. If there is a leak, or if it rains really hard and the ground softens, or freezes, there will be all kinds of movement in the water line. The sacks of concrete hold it in place a lot better then the dirt ever can. Especially once the sacks get wet and harden!!!

Use the proper fittings. You don not glue anything onto that type of pipe. It's all metal sleeves that you bolt over it. At least that is my experience and what my water district requires.

Eddie

 

[MarkV]

I am not familiar with the type of pipe being discussed. Does anyone have a link or a photo? Around here it has always been glued PVC for water lines.

MarkV

 

[wedge40]

I am not familiar with the type of pipe being discussed. Does anyone have a link or a photo? Around here it has always been glued PVC for water lines.

MarkV

Ditto.. I'm curious about the bags of crete.

Wedge

 

[vtsnowedin]

Ditto.. I'm curious about the bags of crete.

Wedge

They are called thrust blocks and are needed at any sharp change in direction.less so mid length but a little overkill dont hurt . They are needed to hold the line against waterhammer which is a pressure spike when some unknowing person slams a valve shut on a full flowing line. This can take a 75psi line up past 200psi and pop fittings apart. On city water mains that work at 125psi they use blocks from a quarter to a full yard of Crete.

 

[Stimw]

I am not familiar with the type of pipe being discussed. Does anyone have a link or a photo? Around here it has always been glued PVC for water lines.

MarkV

Same here on PVC.
I can't imagine anything cheaper or easier than PVC. ???? PVC= 20' lengths, swedged ends from factory.

 

[milkman636]

If this is any type mechanical joint system; ie, no welding, threading, or solvent weld, you need to put a thrust block any time you change direction, up, down, or sideways and about every 300'. A 80# sack of premix concrete will do it. It is amazing how much pipe will move, even when buried, from the dynamics of turning valves on and off and temp changes. I have seen pipe come out of the ground from 2' down a year after install when using "O" ring joints which is what you described. For gravity drains its not a problem but pressure adds a new dynamic. Higher the pressure the greater the potential for movement. The standard is to insert to the mark. The temperature elongation coeffecient of plastic is quite high. Your 2000' of pipe will grow or shrink several inches between summer and winter temps depending on where you live. If it wasn't buried you would have to compensate for several feet of length change. Google the type of pipe you are using and you can find the equation for this.

Ron

I think this is your best answer so far. Every pipe material has a published coefficient of expansion. This value can be used to calculate how much a given run of pipe will lengthen or contract with temperature swings. Leaving room for both expansion and contraction will distribute the movement over every joint in the pipe run rather than forcing it all to occur at the ends of the run.

You'll be happier in the long run if you listen to your inner voice that is telling you not to push it all the way together.