MY TURN: Stupid Human Tricks.

DAP · Jun 30, 2004

I'm typing in this color because it matches my facial hue.

I have some slopes on my property. The are the result of an abandon attempt at building a tennis court years ago. The sides of the slope are about 10 feet in length and at their greatest angle, bump up against the 30-33 degree range.

Now, when I was selecting a mower a few years back, I took these slopes into consideration. The JD guy assured me that going up or down and not sideways, that the LX288 hydro(500lbs) could handle these. For the most part he is right. The machine will take my 260 lbs up or down these slopes with only marginal pucker. AS LONG AS THE GROUND IS SMOOTH.

Note color change.

Now, part of this slope is divided by 4 board paddock fence. Over time, the mares have roughed up the ground surface of this slope. All it took was a single divet to get the front wheels of the mower lifting off the ground while charging up a 30 degree slope. I leaned forward, took my foot off the hydro and rolled back down as slow as I could. There are no ROPS on this machine and I almost had 500 pounds of mower attempt to make me part of this slope.

I'm glad I'm alive and uninjured to report that while the machine can handle a slope like this make sure you are continually observing the surface you are driving your machine on when any significant loads are present on your unit. Slopes or no slopes.

I slipped and forgot to take this into account and it almost got ugly.

Bob_Skurka · Jun 30, 2004

Doug, I've had too many similar experiences on my property with my Cub, which is why I now mow the slopes with a Ventrac 3000. The difference is some of my slopes have a 30'+ rise. But I sure know what you are feeling!

Glad all is well, and remember to climb those slopes SLOWLY.

DAP · Jun 30, 2004

( But I sure know what you are feeling!
...
Glad all is well, and remember to climb those slopes SLOWLY. )

Actually, I will amend the procedures book to the following. Never attempt to cut a slope while CLIMBING it using a machine that is REAR heavy - which most MMM garden/lawn unarticulated tractors are. I will cut the slopes (even the smooth ones) DESCENDING only. This was a simple observation that escaped me.

When those front wheels left terra firma, I immediately took my foot of the 'forward pedal' and started to crawl up the centerline of the tractor.

Now HERE's the rub and it's a HYDRO TRANNY rub. My hydro and all the other hydro's I've operated - when on a slope and neither forward or reverse pedal is depressed, I. Newton takes over and will get the tractor heading in the graviatational direction as fast as it can go over the terrain it is currently on.

My situation, the tractor rear end bit in, FURTHER moving the CG BACK DOWN THE HILL which lightened the front wheels even more. While biting in, it stopped rolling backwards to some degree (both a good and a bad thing).

If I had remained in a normal position in my seat and tried to brake, I would have crossed the CG and we woulda rolled over backwards. If I actually got all the weight off the seat, the safety kill would have stopped the tractor motor and I'm not sure that would have helped either.

Leaning that far forward without throwing the seat switch, hitting the brake was impossible. Which makes me think of Henro's frozen wheel - hydro tranny flip scenario anyway.

So ... in short. No more climbing on slopes with a butt heavy machine and a butt heavy operator.

Don't need an L Series Kubota to kill myself. I'm off to go continue de-puckering.

polecat · Jun 30, 2004

sounds like someone needs to figger out how to put some weights on the front of his tractor that can b easily removed when not needed?????? /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif /forums/images/graemlins/frown.gif

DAP · Jun 30, 2004

JD sells a bumper for this unit. I'd have to jury rig some ballast to it if it could hold the weight that is. HOWEVER,

Weights on the front of my tractor are no replacement for stupidity. Just need to put something smarter in the seat next time methinks.

/forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Yankee · Jun 30, 2004

"Never attempt to cut a slope while CLIMBING it using a machine that is REAR heavy"

Yes, ideally, but is it 100% true? Isn't it better put as

1) best approach - straight up and down, rear of tractor uphill
2) 2nd best - straight up and down, tractor front uphill
3) avoid - crossing (unstable in one axis)
4) worst - diagonal, tractor front uphill (unstable in 2 axes)

I have a slope where I feel quite comfortable mowing with the tractor aimed uphill that exceeds my comfort zone mowing sideways. And since the ditch is at the bottom, I can't go any further - in other words, I can't mow that slope with a rear mower unless I'm pointing uphill.

DAP · Jun 30, 2004

Thanks Yankee .. I made some foolish assumptions. The first being .. NEVER operate a tractor on a slope going laterally - . that is - 90 degrees to the slope. Always go str8 down (or up if you have to).

I don't think my tractor could push itself and me up this slope. It can pull 'us' though. The reverse on this hydro does NOT put the same amount of power to the ground as it does going forward.

I consider your #1 and #2 the only safe way. #3 and 4# become completely unsuitable past 12 degrees, to pick a number.

For further reference, all of the dynamics change midly when the machine is configured differently i.e. MMM, RFM, FMM, etc.

/forums/images/graemlins/cool.gif

ByronBob · Jun 30, 2004

For $100 is it worth buying a push mower and not testing the law of physics or the tractors abilities to not kill you? How much hill are we taking about anyway?

DAP · Jun 30, 2004

This is nothing a string trimmer couldn't handle in 30 minutes. At the risk of being overly self deprecating, please re-read this threads heading.

Golfgar4 · Jun 30, 2004

( Always go str8 down ... )

Uh, Oh! /forums/images/graemlins/shocked.gif

Polecat's writing style is contagious!! /forums/images/graemlins/crazy.gif /forums/images/graemlins/grin.gif