My new old 2N

[2Njohn]

Bought this tractor this weekend it was an impulse buy as my wife calls it. It has a couple issues and I have found lots of answers searching through this forum. Fortunately non of my issues have prevented me from being able to use it over the weekend.

On to my question the number 4 cylinder has an leak at the exhaust manifold, I intend to repair it obviously soon as possible. Does running it with the leak harm the exhaust valve any?

I ask because I wonder how long it leaked and how much it ran Pryor to me acquiring it.

From the engine serial number the tractor is a 1945 2N with 3 speed Sherman high low. I have a 5 foot bush hog and a king kutter 72" finish mower which was my primary motivation for buying it. That mower amazes me with how well it cuts and how much faster it is than my 48" zero turn.

 

[whodat526]

Bought this tractor this weekend it was an impulse buy as my wife calls it. It has a couple issues and I have found lots of answers searching through this forum. Fortunately non of my issues have prevented me from being able to use it over the weekend.

On to my question the number 4 cylinder has an leak at the exhaust manifold, I intend to repair it obviously soon as possible. Does running it with the leak harm the exhaust valve any?

I ask because I wonder how long it leaked and how much it ran Pryor to me acquiring it.

From the engine serial number the tractor is a 1945 2N with 3 speed Sherman high low. I have a 5 foot bush hog and a king kutter 72" finish mower which was my primary motivation for buying it. That mower amazes me with how well it cuts and how much faster it is than my 48" zero turn.

get the exhaust leak fixed as soon as you can because it will wash out the black and manifold where it is leaking and then the repair gets costly

 

[Soundguy]

welcome!

 

[2Njohn]

welcome!

Thank you. I have been looking at parts availability and pricing for these tractors and must say you can't beat how reasonable these are to care for. I am going to buy the manual at tractor supply and order the gaskets for the manifold. I think I will have to split the tractor someday and see why the clutch does not always want to disengage right away. 80 percent of the time it releases in 4 seconds of pushing the clutch in sometimes you have to wrap the throttle a few times for it to release.

I noticed the clutch rod from the pedal to the fork lever in bowed and when you push the clutch a fair amount of lever travel is absorbed by the rod straightening out before it moves the fork lever. Doubt that is the problem though.

 

[2Njohn]

Bought a 6 dollar set of manifold gaskets at tractor supply today at lunch. Came home and put them on and the exhaust leak is no more for awhile. I could tell number 4 cylinder is corroding away didn't need a straightedge to see it. This winter I will take the the manifold off and to work and have the machinest deck it and it should outlast me I suppose. I am amazed how well the job went though no surprises or problems whatsoever.

I noticed the linkage on the governor is wobbly and loose is this normal?

Also noteworthy after putting everything back together and cleaning the carb with cleaner I had not gotten the fuel on all the way (I don't get the two turns on the bowl knob for main yet) It was idling great and I went to cut a swath of grass and it died on me. After some head scratching I turned the full screw a few more turns and could see gas flowing. I had to chuckle at my ignorance in not having the fuel open all the way.

 

[Soundguy]

any slop in the clutch linkage .. even wear at the clevis and pin can effect freeplay. that said.. the slow release is probably a leaky trans input shaft or rear main seal or both, and you have a oily sticky clutch.. make sur ethe weep hole under the bellhousing with a cotter key dangling in it is in place and open.

for the mean time on that manifold, you can put some hi temp epoxy on it and bolt back up or eventhe hi temp red rtv.. anything that keeps it from eroding further will get you by till you machine it.

 

[2Njohn]

any slop in the clutch linkage .. even wear at the clevis and pin can effect freeplay. that said.. the slow release is probably a leaky trans input shaft or rear main seal or both, and you have a oily sticky clutch.. make sur ethe weep hole under the bellhousing with a cotter key dangling in it is in place and open.

for the mean time on that manifold, you can put some hi temp epoxy on it and bolt back up or eventhe hi temp red rtv.. anything that keeps it from eroding further will get you by till you machine it.

Thanks for the advice. Manifold is repaired. I have engine oil coming from the weep hole not much but enough to cause issues with the clutch sticking. Never separated a tractor before any tips for a first timer?

 

[Soundguy]

have a serice manual.. and cribbing, jacks and stands. do it on a hard surface. wedge the front axle stops so she don't lean over..

first time will take ya a day .. from then on.. half a day for the easy 30hp and under sized single clutchers..

repalce the 3$ tranny input shaft seal and all the goodies.. check clutch pilot beairng, throwout.. etc..

 

[jeff9366]

Steven's Tractor has an amazing supply of parts for old tractors; Fords in particular:

Ford Tractor Parts - Ford 8N Tractor Parts - Tractor Parts

 

[2Njohn]

I bought a set of limit chains or deck height chains off of Stevens tractor. Friendly bunch of folks and top notch on the shipping. Only two days by FedEx ground and they came on Saturday which surprised me.

Once I got the chains on I was able to brushhog at the height I wanted and other than it being hotter than you know what I had a blast. The little 4' bmb hog and tractor did
Great. I only keep about 6 acres tamed and a few acres finish mowed this has turned out to be a great and fun investment.

Plan to rebuild hydraulics this winter and fix the generator it is burnt to toast inside must have shorted some time ago. Got my fo4 manual and will split and reseal the rear main and front trans input also when it cools down.

Baby steps for now.