My little welding table DIY accessories

[dragoneggs]

Okay guys, don't laugh... I made a couple accessories for my little (2ft by 4ft) portable welding table. The first was simply to adhesively bond three 'super magnets' purchased at Home Depot to a 2ft square. I find this helpful in squaring up parts to be welded. The magnets are small but super strong and believe it or not, it takes a pretty good yank to free them from the steel work top. I store the square on the underside.

The other was a little more creative... I adhesively bonded Click Bond studs to a steel plate and then bolted down a vise to the plate. I was going to drill holes in my 1/2in steel work top and bolt the vise down directly as typical, but I wanted to be able to have a completely flat and clear work area to so I came up with this quickly removable solution. I use a couple of vise grips to secure the vise to the work table. Works great and I can put it wherever I want it!

 

[square1]

:laughing: :laughing: :laughing: :laughing:

Okay guys, don't laugh...

Oops, missed that part on the first read through

It's little tricks & tips like this being shared that keeps this place interesting.
Thanks for sharing.

 

[Shield Arc]

Very nice table, will come in real handy for welding projects.:thumbsup:

Don't know if you realize it or not. Those magnets will play havocked with the arc, if you tack or weld near them. Little PITA thing called arc blow!

 

[square1]

Those magnets will play havocked with the arc, if you tack or weld near them. Little PITA thing called arc blow!

See, there's another one right there!

 

[mikim]

That square is a framing square used for laying out things like stair stringers and rafters. 9 out of 10 ARE NOT SQUARE! You need to use a speed square to set things to square. Never use a framing square to set things to 90 deg -- I've seen them be as much as 1/2" off in 2 ft. Check it by setting the thinner side against a known straight edge - like the factory cut edge of a piece of plywood, ( be real picky about the edge alignment here) draw a line along the outside edge of the fat side, now flip it so the thin side is on the opposite side of your drawn line but aligned along that factory cut again and see if your drawn line still lines up with the fat edge. When I needed to have a square square - and I was buying a piece of plywood at the same time, I took all the squares off the shelf and did that - I didn't find one square.

 

[Shield Arc]

I'm fairly new to this metal working hobby. But I use framing squares all the time. Even notch the heel so the square will fit over a weld.
Every once in a while I'll check them for square, I just measure 3, 4, 5. Or 6, 8, 10.
Getting Things Square With the World: 3-4-5 Triangles | Mike's Tech Math Blog

 

[Fifelaker]

I also use the Pythagorean Theorem (3-4-5 rule) to check my squares. I also flip me levels over to check to see if the bubble is in the same spot. I also have a rafter square with the corner cut for bead clearance. Speed squares are used for small projects but if I can get the bigger one in there I use that.

 

[Reverser]

Very nice table, will come in real handy for welding projects.:thumbsup:

Don't know if you realize it or not. Those magnets will play havoc with the arc, if you tack or weld near them. Little PITA thing called arc blow!

Yeah, and if you watched that old Miller video, that "Arc Blow" is an ornery rascal. :laughing:
Their solution was to buy one of their AC welders.

 

[Reverser]

Even notch the heel so the square will fit over a weld.

Now that's the sign of a true Weldor.

 

[BukitCase]

You can sometimes bring a framing square into "square" with a center punch, if it's not TOO far off - if the angle is too acute, make a punch mark near the inside corner and recheck - repeat as necessary, but recheck with each successive punch til you get the hang of it.

If the square is WIDER than 90 degrees, punch just in from the OUTSIDE corner... Steve

Oh, and AFTER you get it true, try not using it as a PRY BAR (DAMHIKT )