My latest craigslist score.... a John Deere grooming mowe! Have questions about it..

[kebo]

I had been watching a decent looking JD 261 5ft grooming mower for a couple weeks on CL that was listed at $500. Well, just this morning he dropped the price to $400, so thinking that he was now at $400, I might could get it for even less. So, I called the guy up and got the directions and drove about 20 miles to his place to look at it. Upon inspection, it looked pretty decent, but will definitely need new blades, and he stated that much over the phone. The worst parts were that both front anti-scalp rollers were shot and had lots of slop in them, as you can tell by looking at the pics. Also, it has two more rollers underneath the rear of the deck and one of them is worn out as well, but the other one seemed ok. The other knock is that both of the rear gauge wheels are just bad. The previous owner had filled both of them with foam and they are both spongy and one is even off of the rim. I will probably wind up having to replace both tires. Anyway, I took my time and did a lot of looking at it and checking everything like the PTO shaft, the belt, looking at the gear box, etc, etc. I pointed out a few other minor items. After a while of me not saying anything, I think he thought that I might be about to say "no, I think I'll pass on it", he piped up and said, "I tell you what... for one day only I will drop it to $300, that's a good deal and should help you break even getting new rollers for it". That was good timing cause I was about to speak up and offer him $350 for it lol! :laughing:

So, I shook his hand and gave him the $300 cash, and helped me load it up. He said he had bought it from a neighbor, but I'm not sure why as the seller didn't even own a tractor??? He also said he had some folks coming in from Michigan tomorrow and I'm guessing he needed money. If you saw his place (mobile home out in the country), you would understand. I think maybe he needed some quick cash to help pay for some vittles for his guests as they were staying a whole week.

Anyway..... I already have a 5ft Sitrex grooming and the reason I bought this was mostly to see if it would cut better than the Sitrex. It tends to leave a "hi - lo line" in the grass between two blades, like the two blades are sitting at different levels. If this one cuts better after I get all the problems corrected, I will wind up selling the other mower. If it I don't like this JD mower any better, then I will put it back up for sale and maybe even make a couple dollars off it. Or at least try and break even.

Now for my questions.... never having owned a mower with anti scalp rollers, did these rollers originally have some type of bearings in them?? How much $$$.$$ will JD want for new rollers?? Or, is there a "generic" cheaper brand I can order online?

Also, how much will those little gauge tires cost new?? Will one of my local small engine shops have them, or do I order them online somewhere?


Now for the pic's, have not yet had a chance to unload it out of the truck....

 

[mcfarmall]

Looks like a nice score!

 

[LD1]

Front rollers $33 ea John Deere Mower Deck Roller - AM39886
Rear roller $22 John Deere Roller - M84513
Tire/wheel assembly $82 John Deere Tire with Wheel Assembly - AM11551
Belt $75 John Deere Drive Belt - M8455

I used to mow alot with a 261. Mine had the solid rear tires so didnt have to worry about air/

Also never worried about the anti-scalp rollers, because I used a leveling chain in the front. Which is basically two chains that attach to the arms near where the lift pins are on the mower, then somewhere on the tractor around where the toplink attaches. Makes for consistent height when you lower the mower instead of relying on the stops for the hydraulics. And its got rear gauges wheels so the only thing the rear anti-scalp roller will do is if its a small mound like a mole hill, or if one of the rear gauges wheels drops in a hole. Yours are probably fine as is, because you dont ride on them. They are just there to keep the blades out of the dirt on uneven terrain.

Check out the belt. They are pricey. Make sure its good. As well as the spindles and idlers. You can get generic idlers for ~$15-$20. And the spindles can be rebuilt. IIRC it was 6205 bearings.

There are two different spindle assemblies, with a serial number split. Dont know what I had, but was non-greasable. Best thing i ever did was drill the spindle shaft, install grease fittings, and remove the inner bearing seals. Dont know if the other spindle version is already greasable?

I think you got a good deal provided its ready to roll. IF you got to rebuild all the spindles, replace idlers, and a belt, you may double your investment thus far. But even then, its still a nice mower and pretty robust.

 

[boggen]

Anyway..... I already have a 5ft Sitrex grooming and the reason I bought this was mostly to see if it would cut better than the Sitrex. It tends to leave a "hi - lo line" in the grass between two blades, like the two blades are sitting at different levels.

1) you put one of the blades up side down.
2) you put the cutting edge on wrong side when last sharpening them
3) you forgot a washer
4) the deck is bent causing one of the pulleys going down to given blade to be at an angle and causing ugly cut.
5) gauge wheels are mis aligned height, and/or lifting arms on 3pt hitch is hanging up causing deck to hang at an angle.
6) one of the blades are bent
7) you mixed and matched different blade styles together. (from straight blade, to different mulching style angled blade types)

*coughs i will not admit to all of them*
i have not actually bent a deck, but the shaft between pulley on top, that goes down to blade down below i have bent.
i have yet to mix different blade styles on same deck.

everything else (been there done that)

=============
prefer a solid plastic wheel / solid rubber wheel for gauge wheels on finishing mowers. have bad enough time with grease zerks on the bearings and then on the adjustment leg above the wheel. trying to deal with a little tire valve *meh* asking for problems more so with all the cut grass, wet grass and then mud that gets in next to the gauge wheel.

 

[kebo]

Front rollers $33 ea John Deere Mower Deck Roller - AM39886
Rear roller $22 John Deere Roller - M84513
Tire/wheel assembly $82 John Deere Tire with Wheel Assembly - AM11551
Belt $75 John Deere Drive Belt - M8455

I used to mow alot with a 261. Mine had the solid rear tires so didnt have to worry about air/

Also never worried about the anti-scalp rollers, because I used a leveling chain in the front. Which is basically two chains that attach to the arms near where the lift pins are on the mower, then somewhere on the tractor around where the toplink attaches. Makes for consistent height when you lower the mower instead of relying on the stops for the hydraulics. And its got rear gauges wheels so the only thing the rear anti-scalp roller will do is if its a small mound like a mole hill, or if one of the rear gauges wheels drops in a hole. Yours are probably fine as is, because you dont ride on them. They are just there to keep the blades out of the dirt on uneven terrain.

Check out the belt. They are pricey. Make sure its good. As well as the spindles and idlers. You can get generic idlers for ~$15-$20. And the spindles can be rebuilt. IIRC it was 6205 bearings.

There are two different spindle assemblies, with a serial number split. Dont know what I had, but was non-greasable. Best thing i ever did was drill the spindle shaft, install grease fittings, and remove the inner bearing seals. Dont know if the other spindle version is already greasable?

I think you got a good deal provided its ready to roll. IF you got to rebuild all the spindles, replace idlers, and a belt, you may double your investment thus far. But even then, its still a nice mower and pretty robust.

Thanks for all the good info, that will come in handy. I've actually found complete spindle wheels for $36, which includes the wheel hub and the tire on Ebay. I already have the forks, so that might be a good option. I believe the bearings on the wheels I have may be shot, but before I do anything, I'll take them to my JD dealer and see if I can get just the bearings by themselves. Then all I'll need is the tire which is just a Carlisle 9x3.50-4NHS and I can get them just about anywhere for not too much.

I may jury rig something with the front anti-scalp rollers, I don't really want to spend $66 plus shipping for the front rollers. I looked at the belt and it appears to be in good shape, but as far as the idler pulleys go, I won't know till I have time to really dig into it. The three spindles on mine each have a grease fitting on the top, very accessible. I like that, now as long as they are not clogged up with dried up grease, I should be ok there. I like your idea about adding the chains to keep the front of the deck at a certain height, I may have to rig up something like that on mine as well.

More questions I have for you, since you've used the 261 before.... does it do a pretty good job cutting grass? Any idea what the blade tip speed is?? What about cutting in heavy wet grass, does it discharge well enough to keep it from clogging up the underside of the deck? Thanks again.

 

[JimRB]

You don't have to go to the JD dealership to look for parts. Do a Google search for John Deere parts and you will get to their online parts catalog. Parts breakdown for most things Deere. John Deere Parts & Accessories

 

[pmsmechanic]

I have an F-935 with a six foot side discharge deck. It's a similar deck to your 261. If you mow when the grass is dry the deck stays clean for the most part. You can easily cut off 4 inches of grass at a walking speed and still do a good job. It comes boiling out the side but doesn't plug up. It does not do a good job of spreading that much grass though.