Birdbrain
Member
- Joined
- Feb 1, 2008
- Messages
- 35
- Location
- Slower Lower Delaware (Sussex Co.)
- Tractor
- Kubota L3400, Farmall A
And now...the rest of the story (insert Paul Harvey impression)
So I found a pair of 2-14" Ford 101 plows for $375. I chose them over other similar used plows from information I read here (thanks FWJ). The points are worn down and one coulter is bent and worn, but I figured it was a good starting point.
We had some issues getting it mounted. First, the right coulter hit the lower arm. So we had to break it loose and turn it inward a half inch. That required WD40, borrowed socket set, and lots of grunting. Then the end of the frame rubbed against the vertical part of the arm (sorry, don't know the proper name...still learning). Adn trying to shorten the top arm so the plows were level made this worse. We thought this was going to be a show stopper and were considering getting out our ancient set of pull type plows. But after doing a couple other things, I came back and realized that I could tighten the turnbuckle on the left, pull the plows over so they would clear. This improved the situation, but it was still a very tight fit and the end of the frame would rub the knuckle that held the pins.
With this set up, I jumped into plowing. I had 2 fields to do:
1. an acre garden (plowed last year)
2. a 2 acre field destined to become food plots. It has been farmed up until '06 (mainly no till); fallow in '07, but disked in the fall; and probably has not been turned over in 10, maybe 15, years.
The garden went fairly well and I fiddled around with speed, throttle and depth to plow. I settled in around 2200 rpm in mid range. Around 3.5 or 4 on the position control got me a 6" furrow (I think, did not measure). I had some small issues with it digging in, but not too bad. I was able to play with the depth and keep it reasonably even.
The field was another story. The low end was hard as a rock and I could barely scratch 3". The other end had a couple inches extra fill spread over it from the recent pond construction. It dug in really bad. I wound up with lumps and bumps and hills and ruts. My solution was to straddle the furrow with all wheels on fairly even ground and it would level out. But a few more rounds and it was back to lumps and bumps. In the end, I think I can even it out with the disk.
So what did I learn:
1. Plowing is an art
2. I cannot plow a straight line. The field started as a bow and only got worse.
3. If I turn, the plow goes the opposite.
4. I need to read more about plowing, esp. how to control the depth.
5. I need to rehab the plow to see if that helps
Questions:
1. Should I plow at a different speed or in the low range? How does going faster or slower affect it?
2. There seems to be about 3" extra frame beyond the bolts holding the coulter. Can this be burned off to avoid the conflicts?
Other comments:
HST was absolutely the way to go. When I got in the corners of field or garden, it was so easy to manuever.
Somewhere on the steep part of the learning curve,
Glen
So I found a pair of 2-14" Ford 101 plows for $375. I chose them over other similar used plows from information I read here (thanks FWJ). The points are worn down and one coulter is bent and worn, but I figured it was a good starting point.
We had some issues getting it mounted. First, the right coulter hit the lower arm. So we had to break it loose and turn it inward a half inch. That required WD40, borrowed socket set, and lots of grunting. Then the end of the frame rubbed against the vertical part of the arm (sorry, don't know the proper name...still learning). Adn trying to shorten the top arm so the plows were level made this worse. We thought this was going to be a show stopper and were considering getting out our ancient set of pull type plows. But after doing a couple other things, I came back and realized that I could tighten the turnbuckle on the left, pull the plows over so they would clear. This improved the situation, but it was still a very tight fit and the end of the frame would rub the knuckle that held the pins.
With this set up, I jumped into plowing. I had 2 fields to do:
1. an acre garden (plowed last year)
2. a 2 acre field destined to become food plots. It has been farmed up until '06 (mainly no till); fallow in '07, but disked in the fall; and probably has not been turned over in 10, maybe 15, years.
The garden went fairly well and I fiddled around with speed, throttle and depth to plow. I settled in around 2200 rpm in mid range. Around 3.5 or 4 on the position control got me a 6" furrow (I think, did not measure). I had some small issues with it digging in, but not too bad. I was able to play with the depth and keep it reasonably even.
The field was another story. The low end was hard as a rock and I could barely scratch 3". The other end had a couple inches extra fill spread over it from the recent pond construction. It dug in really bad. I wound up with lumps and bumps and hills and ruts. My solution was to straddle the furrow with all wheels on fairly even ground and it would level out. But a few more rounds and it was back to lumps and bumps. In the end, I think I can even it out with the disk.
So what did I learn:
1. Plowing is an art
2. I cannot plow a straight line. The field started as a bow and only got worse.
3. If I turn, the plow goes the opposite.
4. I need to read more about plowing, esp. how to control the depth.
5. I need to rehab the plow to see if that helps
Questions:
1. Should I plow at a different speed or in the low range? How does going faster or slower affect it?
2. There seems to be about 3" extra frame beyond the bolts holding the coulter. Can this be burned off to avoid the conflicts?
Other comments:
HST was absolutely the way to go. When I got in the corners of field or garden, it was so easy to manuever.
Somewhere on the steep part of the learning curve,
Glen