MT3000 Won't start. Starter/solenoid?

[NOOBinOR]

Today, turn the key the first time and got one little burp, then nothing. Swapped in a spare battery just charged up that my fancy charger said is good. Nothing. Hooked up cables to a loose rv batt, nothing. Cables to my buddy's vehicle, nothing.

Prior to today, no real problem starting. We scouted around for any loose wires, etc, didn't find anything obvious.

I'm thinking of just swapping out the starter and solenoid with new... Any of that polarization silliness with these? Anyone have verified part numbers? I've got either 498148 or 497596 for the starter and 691656 for the solenoid.

Advice for this reluctant mechanic?

Thanks!

 

[Roadworthy]

I'd troubleshoot the problem before throwing money at it. If your starter and solenoid are good you'll have spares and still not have a running tractor. When you turn the key do you get any voltage to the solenoid? What happens if you jump from the battery to the solenoid? Do your dash lights come on normally?

 

[NOOBinOR]

Road - thanks for the input.

I don't currently have a meter, it was stolen and I haven't replaced it but I'll probably order one today because it's stupid not to have one. I have no training, experience or confidence troubleshooting electronics. It's not readily apparent to me which terminal is positive on the solenoid to jump it from the battery.

Neither do I have a trailer suitable for hauling this thing to a shop, and both the shops in town an hour away are very sketchy. Shop time is 150 and up an hour. For all the hassle and expense I can buy a lot of parts.

It's a world of hurt and I hate to shotgun it, but my options are limited.

What else could it be besides starter/solenoid. Ignition?

I have my doubts about the alternator but that wouldn't keep it from starting, right? It wasn't charging with the old battery but I would just put it on the charger. That battery finally tested to not hold a charge with my fancy battery charger and I swapped in another that the charger said was good. I was going to see how that battery got on before dealing with the alt. Both batteries came with 'cuz the guy that sold it to me knew there was a prob but didn't bother to tell me.

The ignition is chewed up with a luggage key that kinda halfass fits in there but it was working prior, it needs to be replaced anyway.

I did not disconnect batt cables when I was charging, could I have fried something that way? Charged it up 6-8 times or so, usually leave it on overnite but it was hooked up for 3 days this last time. I have this batt charger and I don't think so, just running down the possibilities.

https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B006G14FK8/

 

[Roadworthy]

Let's start easy. Buy a meter. It doesn't matter is it's a $300 Fluke or a $5 Harbor Freight. We need a starting point. When you get the meter, charge your battery. Clean the terminals real well. Clean your battery cable connectors real well, too. Inspect carefully for any corrosion going into the cables. Install the connectors and tighten well. If you can move them they're not tight. Normally the negative battery terminal is ground. This is not always the case on older tractors - say from the fifties or before. Follow the ground lead to the frame. Clean and tighten. Check your battery voltage. It should be 12.6 or more. If not you may have found your problem. Attach the voltmeter to the battery and monitor the voltage as you try to crank. It's okay if it drops to ten or eleven. If it drops below that you may have to replace the battery before further troubleshooting.

 

[NOOBinOR]

Bless you! I have a meter on order but it won't be here 'till the end of the month. Cleaned a fair amount of goo off today, will be back for the next step...