Mounting D rings

dodge man · Jan 26, 2009

Any advice for mounting D rings on a wood decked trailer. It has stake pockets around the edge of the deck but they don't seem that great for using as tie down points. Can you just lag screw them to the deck or should you bolt through the deck with large washers? It seems like the deck is pretty strudy, so I would like to mount them on the deck and not to the metal rails. I see some D rings are counter sunk. How are those mounted, do you have to route out a spot in the wood deck so they fit flush? I have no idea where to put them. I hauled a car today, and I can see they would have to be in a different spot then for my tractor. I have attached a picture of my trailer from the dealers website.

radman1 · Jan 26, 2009

I would not just lag screw or bolt them to the wood. The wood is usually only held in place by a few screws into the crossbars and not strong enough. On one of my trailers, I welded a piece of 4"x4"x1/4" angle iron to the underside of of my 3 inch "C" channel crossbars. The angle iron had the proper holes drilled before welding. Use the holes to drill up through the wood after welding the angle iron. If you wanted to get fancy, make a template and remove the wood with a plunge router where the D ring is bolted if you want to make it flush. I mounted 6 of them on my trailer. 2 toward the back, and 4 closer to the front. Put your tractor/car on the trailer and see what works for you.

A lot of people will just weld/bolt them to the side rails of the trailer.

Why don't you like to use the stake pockets? I have one trailer with stakes/wood sides with a 2x10. I just lift the side sligtly, take my tie down chain under the side and fasten it to the stake pocket.

kennyd · Jan 26, 2009

Please do not mount them to the wood! The wood is just secured to the cross-rails with #8 or #10 self-drilling screws. Even attaching the anchors through the wood to the cross-rials may not be a good option because they are usually just 2x2 angle iron.

Your anchors must be attached securely to the structural frame of the trailer, preferably by welding, or with appropriate size/grade hardware. Why not consult the dealer that sold you the trailer for his opinion?

George2615 · Jan 26, 2009

Countersunk D rings mounted in the wood deck are fine for securing items of LIGHT LOADS ONLY to your trailer. Never just lag screw a D ring to the deck. It won't hold much of anything ESPECIALLY NOT A TRACTOR. If mounting D rings to the deck use bolts that go all the way through the deck with large flat washers and locking nuts. Mount them so the underside will straddle a structural support.

To hold or secure equipment to your trailer you need to use the stake pockets or weld or bolt D rings to the metal frame of the trailer. If bolting your D rings to the trailer frame use grade 8 hardware.

When I bought my trailer I had the option of it coming with D rings installed. I chose to install my own. Once I knew where my tractor was going to sit on the trailer I welded my D rings to the metal trailer frame on the sides and back. I put 2 on each side and 2 on back. For front securing I use the bar like you have on yours.

I bought my 5/8" D rings at my local TSC store and welded them on where I wanted them.

LBrown59 · Jan 26, 2009

dodge man said:
Any advice for mounting D rings on a wood decked trailer. It has stake pockets around the edge of the deck but they don't seem that great for using as tie down points. Can you just lag screw them to the deck or should you bolt through the deck with large washers? It seems like the deck is pretty strudy, so I would like to mount them on the deck and not to the metal rails. I see some D rings are counter sunk. How are those mounted, do you have to route out a spot in the wood deck so they fit flush? I have no idea where to put them. I hauled a car today, and I can see they would have to be in a different spot then for my tractor. I have attached a picture of my trailer from the dealers website.

Nice lookin trailer.
Was the car you hauled a full size car?
I've been kicking around the idea to come up with something to haul my toyota and My BX23 on.

dodge man · Jan 29, 2009

Sorry it took so lone to answer your question Lbrown, I've been out of town working the last few days. It was 97 Mercury Sable, not a small car or a large car. I noticed the door just barely cleared the fender. It would haul a BX, which I have, and a smaller pick up just fine.

LBrown59 · Jan 29, 2009

dodge man said:
Sorry it took so lone to answer your question Lbrown, I've been out of town working the last few days. It was 97 Mercury Sable, not a small car or a large car. I noticed the door just barely cleared the fender. It would haul a BX, which I have, and a smaller pick up just fine.

Thanks for the reply.

mohrds · Jan 29, 2009

I installed E-Track on my trailer deck. Makes life really simple no matter where you place your load.

I used some scrap 2x3 1/4" angle iron 24" O.C. underneath the deck and welded it to the frame and the E-Track bolts through the deck to that every 24". The rest of the E-track holes were filled with lag screws. The lag srews hold the track evenly and the bolts secure it to the frame system.

Hauling siding, cars, fence panels, etc. can all be secured close to the load to prevent sliding.

radman1 · Jan 29, 2009

mohrds said:
I installed E-Track on my trailer deck. Makes life really simple no matter where you place your load.

I used some scrap 2x3 1/4" angle iron 24" O.C. underneath the deck and welded it to the frame and the E-Track bolts through the deck to that every 24". The rest of the E-track holes were filled with lag screws. The lag srews hold the track evenly and the bolts secure it to the frame system.

Hauling siding, cars, fence panels, etc. can all be secured close to the load to prevent sliding.

I would never trust E-Track to hold any substantial load. I have tried it and it is relatively easy to pull the clips out of the track. I have pulled them out from the track with just a tight binder. Had my skid steer tied down with the E track. Forgot to remove one chain. Moved the skid steer just a little and the clip pulled out easily. It seems it part related to the low angle of pull when binding down a load. The clip is pulled at a relatively sharp angle to the track and will easily bend the lip/edge of the slot on the E track and pop out. I was using heavy duty E-track clips rated for 5000 lbs. I was not even close to having 5000 lbs of pull on the clip.

I do otherwise like the E-track. I have it dadoed into the wood so it is flush with the surface. I have 2 strips running the full length of my 24' trailer. Bolted to the crossmembers which are every 12".