Motor oil for Kubota?

[treesmith]

I'm new to this forum, so someone may have already addressed this in the past. I bought a Kubots L4240 last June (2008). The fifty-hour service light came on the other day, so I went by my local dealership to purchase the oil and filter I needed. I also bought a hydraulic filter. Talk about highway robbery!!! $105 and some change! The 2 1/2-gallon jug of "KUBOTA" oil was over $50, and the hydraulic filter was $37. NEVER AGAIN!!!!

What I'm wondering is, does anyone know of an "approved" oil that I can use in place of the Kubota oil? I've already found the correct Wix filter numbers for next time (at half the price). Now I need to find a motor oil that will suffice. I'm considering Delo 400 or Rotella. Any ideas??

 

[Jerry/MT]

I'm new to this forum, so someone may have already addressed this in the past. I bought a Kubots L4240 last June (2008). The fifty-hour service light came on the other day, so I went by my local dealership to purchase the oil and filter I needed. I also bought a hydraulic filter. Talk about highway robbery!!! $105 and some change! The 2 1/2-gallon jug of "KUBOTA" oil was over $50, and the hydraulic filter was $37. NEVER AGAIN!!!!

What I'm wondering is, does anyone know of an "approved" oil that I can use in place of the Kubota oil? I've already found the correct Wix filter numbers for next time (at half the price). Now I need to find a motor oil that will suffice. I'm considering Delo 400 or Rotella. Any ideas??

Brand doen't make any differtence, in my opinion. You need to get the correct SAE grade of oil specified in the owners manual. If it's 15W40 then anybody's 15W40 will be OK. You'll notice the owner's manual doesn't specify a brand it only specifies and SAE grade and maybe an API classification.
If you search the archives here you find this topic discussed ad nauseum with many differing opinions. Not a lot of hard data, just a lot of opinions.

 

[JMynes]

Not a lot of hard data, just a lot of opinions.

OK, here's my opinion. API classification is more important than the SAE grade, within reason. For instance, if the manual specs a CI 15W-40 I would use a CJ 5W-40 before I used a CG 15W-40. Naturally, expected temperatures come in to play, and try to use an appropriate weight, but don't bump down the API classification if you can help it.
You want oil problems? Buy a newer VW diesel. Anything newer that 2004 and you don't have many choices besides the VW branded stuff, and the company that bottles it. Mine is a 2003, so I have more options.

 

[Jerry/MT]

OK, here's my opinion. API classification is more important than the SAE grade, within reason. For instance, if the manual specs a CI 15W-40 I would use a CJ 5W-40 before I used a CG 15W-40. Naturally, expected temperatures come in to play, and try to use an appropriate weight, but don't bump down the API classification if you can help it.
You want oil problems? Buy a newer VW diesel. Anything newer that 2004 and you don't have many choices besides the VW branded stuff, and the company that bottles it. Mine is a 2003, so I have more options.

Respectfully, why do you think that API classification is more important than SAE grade for a tractor application? Most API grades are backward compatible but the lube system is designed around SAE grades for various operating ambient temperatures. If the owners manual specifies a 15W40 oil for ambient temperature between 32F and 120F, I certainly would not use a 5W40 oil unless it was specified as an acceptable alternate.
The newer tractors will also specify an API classification for compatibility with the emmission systems that are installed on the newer machines so both the SAE grade and the API classification are important. If you want to keep the warrantee valid, you'll need to meet both requirements.

 

[thatguy]

I'm new to this forum, so someone may have already addressed this in the past. I bought a Kubots L4240 last June (2008). The fifty-hour service light came on the other day, so I went by my local dealership to purchase the oil and filter I needed. I also bought a hydraulic filter. Talk about highway robbery!!! $105 and some change! The 2 1/2-gallon jug of "KUBOTA" oil was over $50, and the hydraulic filter was $37. NEVER AGAIN!!!!

What I'm wondering is, does anyone know of an "approved" oil that I can use in place of the Kubota oil? I've already found the correct Wix filter numbers for next time (at half the price). Now I need to find a motor oil that will suffice. I'm considering Delo 400 or Rotella. Any ideas??

It appears that a lot of the hydraulic filters are dealer only for some reason.. I had the JD part number and the filter number of the Donaldson that came off and I will wasn't able to find a cross match.. I pd about $31 for my hydraulic filter..

By chance did you get a synthetic engine oil? I know around here you can buy Rotella 15w40 2.5 gallons jugs for around $25, but synthetic would be about what you paid..

A lot of ppl have found that some dealers are very competitive in pricing and go with them just so there is no chance they can deny a warranty claim for using an 'inferior' brand filter..

Brian

 

[dsb5610]

I use Wix filters and Shell Rotella 'T' (15w40) in my Bobcat which has a Kubota engine. I also use the same oil in my Kubota diesel lawn mower. I pay $10/gal.

dsb

 

[phyxer]

My brand new Kubota has a grand total of 8.8 hours on it and I have a quart of Shell Rotella T 15W40 sitting in the shop waiting to be used in it as needed. I wouldn't be afraid to use Delo 400 or Mobile Delvac 1300 either. All three of these oils have worked wonderfully for me in my Ford Powerstrokes and Cummins M11. That's my story, others will vary

Troy

 

[JMynes]

Respectfully, why do you think that API classification is more important than SAE grade for a tractor application?

I consider API classification to be a "Not Less Than" requirement, while viscosity numbers are less critical. Most owners manuals give you a few acceptable viscosity choices based on expected temperatures, but will specify, for instance, a CI4+ API requirement. As an example, I would not put an SF, SL, or S-anything rated oil in any diesel even if the viscosity was correct.
Of course, it's best to meet both requirements, but diesel engines need diesel oil. This isn't your father's Oldsmobile.
Luckily there are many very good oils to choose from these days. I would make a specific brand recommendation, but we don't need to start that war.

 

[Sully2]

I consider API classification to be a "Not Less Than" requirement, while viscosity numbers are less critical. Most owners manuals give you a few acceptable viscosity choices based on expected temperatures, but will specify, for instance, a CI4+ API requirement. As an example, I would not put an SF, SL, or S-anything rated oil in any diesel even if the viscosity was correct.
Of course, it's best to meet both requirements, but diesel engines need diesel oil. This isn't your father's Oldsmobile.
Luckily there are many very good oils to choose from these days. I would make a specific brand recommendation, but we don't need to start that war.

I figure that if I use an oil that is VASTLY "superior" to what is specified in my owners manual..Im way ahead of the game. My B3030 stated 10W-30 that was API rated as "CC; CD or CE". Which I cant even BUY anymore. I switched to SYN Rotella 5W-40..rated at CI at the time...and it runs as smooth as a sewing machine.

15W-40 was the oil to go to for over a decade for Cummins engines...until they started selling "Extreme Blue" SYN oil in 5W-40...and they will tell you they are directly interchangeable but you cant ( according to them) extend your oil change intervals even though it is a SYN oil ( which I dont anyway)

 

[Bird]

I'm considering Delo 400 or Rotella. Any ideas??

And those were the two most popular oils used by all the farmers in my area regardless of brand and size of tractor. I used the 15W-40 Delo 400 in my Kubotas.